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Old 02-13-2014, 12:06 AM   #1
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Best 3" lift price 300-600 range

Best quality lift for that range? I already have 2" RE bb with shocks and sway links. Looking to upgrade. Did research but it was all mixed. Thanks.

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Old 02-13-2014, 10:34 AM   #2
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Zone 3 inch

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Old 02-13-2014, 11:14 AM   #3
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Zone 3 inch
Agree, but install a 1" motor mount lift instead of the transfer case drop, or buy the Zone 4.25" combo lift...about $75 more (which comes with a mml) and just don't install the body lift (if you want to stay at 3")
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:59 AM   #4
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Agree, but install a 1" motor mount lift instead of the transfer case drop, or buy the Zone 4.25" combo lift...about $75 more (which comes with a mml) and just don't install the body lift (if you want to stay at 3")
100% agree!
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:28 PM   #5
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X2 on the zone lift
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Old 02-13-2014, 12:33 PM   #6
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I have the Zone combo, and have been very pleased.
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Old 02-13-2014, 01:01 PM   #7
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Agree, but install a 1" motor mount lift instead of the transfer case drop, or buy the Zone 4.25" combo lift...about $75 more (which comes with a mml) and just don't install the body lift (if you want to stay at 3")
This ^^^ sorry i had just woken up haha do this
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:17 PM   #8
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I already have a 1.25" BL on now
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:18 PM   #9
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Has anyone upgraded to new control arms with the 3" lift? I will be doin a motor mount lift
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:57 PM   #10
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Has anyone upgraded to new control arms with the 3" lift? I will be doin a motor mount lift

Personally, I would stick with stock control arms (using 3" springs) unless you are willing to get control arms with JJ joints or Metalcloak's Duroflex joints. The stock arms are better quality (last longer) than most of the aftermarket control arms on the market.

And stock arms are always replaceable...many aftermarket arms are not supported with parts (like bushings) after just a a few years. (Bust one and might have to buy a full set.)
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Old 02-13-2014, 02:58 PM   #11
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Personally, I would stick with stock control arms (using 3" springs) unless you are willing to get control arms with JJ joints or Metalcloak's Duroflex joints. The OEM arms are better quality (last longer) than most of the aftermarket control arms on the market.
And cheaper and easier to replace if you break one wheeling
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:39 PM   #12
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How many have issues with driveline or angles with stock arms?
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Old 02-13-2014, 05:40 PM   #13
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And will my rubicon express 2" bb shocks work with 3" springs?
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:27 PM   #14
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And will my rubicon express 2" bb shocks work with 3" springs?
No, but if you order the 3" Zone kit, it will come with shocks.
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:50 PM   #15
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Where can I get the 1 inch motor mount lift? I have a tcase drop now and am having issues with 2nd 4th and rev popping out. I think putting the tcase bask in place would solve that. Thoughts?
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Old 02-13-2014, 07:55 PM   #16
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why don't you go with the R.E. lift if your already have it on the jeep? don't like it?

i was looking for 2-3" total lift on sups. just ordered it last night and some other stuff but went with the BB lift and rancho 9000 adj. shocks for it i had this set up once before and loved it seemed to have good rod manners and on off road stuff i could dial it in as needed to work for it there also.
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Old 02-13-2014, 09:47 PM   #17
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Just looking to upgrade. It's just coil spacers on factory springs not actual lift springs
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:36 PM   #18
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Just looking to upgrade. It's just coil spacers on factory springs not actual lift springs
the overall effect is still 2.5" lift correct?

if the lift is is what you want take your springs out and paint them any color ya want and call them skyjacker etc.. but at least ya have a soft factory ride with the wanted lift and they will still do the job.
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Old 02-13-2014, 11:50 PM   #19
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the overall effect is still 2.5" lift correct?

if the lift is is what you want take your springs out and paint them any color ya want and call them skyjacker etc.. but at least ya have a soft factory ride with the wanted lift and they will still do the job.
I dont think you fully understand. Hes running a 2" BB which is a rubber puck that sits ontop of his factory spring giving him EXACTLY 2 inches of lift where as new lift springs will generally give a bit more than the avertised lift hieght.. 2" is as high as one should go with the spacer lift. Its also the cheaper way of doing the lift. He wants a larger lift (by swapping to a new larger coil spring) and if done properly he will maintain the soft factory ride you talk about if not better while also gaining more lift, effectively.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:32 AM   #20
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And better articulation
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:00 AM   #21
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articulation is gained by control arms,
so you need limiting straps, spring retainers etc.. goes in a whole different world to active the same ride height or better AT FIRST. how ever once they settle they will still come down in lift to a point.

you can change the pucks out for the Aluminum pucks also. this will prevent flex form the rubber style pucks.

i guess to get the same amount of lift i don't see the point.

if you were going to a 4-6 long arm kit i can completely understand it.

you still have to worry about the up travel on a jeep with out fenders etc.. is just asking for more issues then a rubber puck is giving you.

so now your talking the high line fenders where it will allow the advantage of your over all lift and take advantage of it. otherwise your just driving another mall crawler with a taller lift then the guy parked next to you .
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:09 AM   #22
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If I get a 3" lift I will have 3" ....not 2". How's it the same ? Factory spring sag actually I'd gain 1.25" and polyurethane or rubber pucks don't compress or depress. End of story. Getting new springs.
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:17 AM   #23
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articulation is gained by control arms,
so you need limiting straps, spring retainers etc.. goes in a whole different world to active the same ride height or better AT FIRST. how ever once they settle they will still come down in lift to a point.

you can change the pucks out for the Aluminum pucks also. this will prevent flex form the rubber style pucks.

i guess to get the same amount of lift i don't see the point.

if you were going to a 4-6 long arm kit i can completely understand it.

you still have to worry about the up travel on a jeep with out fenders etc.. is just asking for more issues then a rubber puck is giving you.

so now your talking the high line fenders where it will allow the advantage of your over all lift and take advantage of it. otherwise your just driving another mall crawler with a taller lift then the guy parked next to you .
You still dont understand. A puck will give you no more articulation than stock ride hight since its still the same length and will bind at the same time. So a 2 in BB is essentially for looks. A 3 inch lift coil will actually give you more articulation since its an entirely new and taller spring. So he actually is gaining a pretty decent amount. He doesnt need to go to a 4-6 long arm kit? Those are actually known to get hung up on rocks way more than a nice short arm kit. A 3 inch lift is a great choice for the OP wanting to get more lift and articulation. If done correctly. Which is why hes here asking. Telling him a 2" BB is the same as 3" lift coils is terrible advice as well as telling him the only beneficial way to lift is a 4-6" long arm kit? And that he would need limiting straps?? For a 3 inch lift?? And saying control arms are the only way to gain more articulation???... Its the system as a whole bud. Not one particular thing. Not to be rude but do a little research/hands on experience before giving advice like this.
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Old 02-14-2014, 10:57 AM   #24
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Zone 4.25 I have the zone 3 inch and LOVe it wish I would have got the 4.25 with MML instead of the 3 inch with tans drop. I would not of used the body lift but think the MML is worth the extra, But for your price range the 3 inch was shipped to my door with nitro shock upgrade for 459.00
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:07 AM   #25
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See your right i dont know anything, but dont let location fool you im in Ok now. have lived a long time in NM,AZareas and seen allot of ppl lift a jeep or add things on the advice of ppl on messege borads then they get hurt or thier rig dont do what they are expecting it should.
Im questioning what he is doing for a couple of reasons.
1. So i can understand what he is doing and the gains he will get. I also own a TJ im putting lift on.
2. To a point playing a devils advocate instead of saying how great everone is and kissing ass im asking questions to understand it better for myself and others who might not know also.

Wassent trying to piss yall off. But im not a kid and i have been doing cars and trucks for years. But not 4x4 rock crawling so it is new to a point. But riding in one and building one are diffrent things.
Just to mall crawl you can use anything but when the road ends you can use that same rig and get hurt very seriously because you think you know how to use it.
Basically knowing how to drive will get you a whole lot further then acting like it with fancy toys. But if someone questions you dont be upset and take offence, they Might be someone that has more motive then a post count.
And i have seen what happens when they gwt to much UP travel and destroy thier sheet metal. Witch is why i pointed it out. Not always abut being taller.
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Old 02-14-2014, 11:29 AM   #26
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Piece together your own lift with 3" springs. My Zone lift has already fallen apart after 2 years and I'm in no way hard on it. It gets daily driven 99% of the time. All 4 shocks are basically toast especially the shock bushings and leaking some oil. I don't believe the rear bumpstops that come with the 3" lift kit are enough to keep the rear shocks from bottoming out. Only one of my 3" springs is sitting at actual 3" of height rest are 2.5" or below. Even though zone and bds are almost identical, I rather pony up and get the warranty bds comes with or piece together springs, shocks, trackbars from better companies.
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Old 02-14-2014, 12:11 PM   #27
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Piece together your own lift with 3" springs. My Zone lift has already fallen apart after 2 years and I'm in no way hard on it. It gets daily driven 99% of the time. All 4 shocks are basically toast especially the shock bushings and leaking some oil. I don't believe the rear bumpstops that come with the 3" lift kit are enough to keep the rear shocks from bottoming out. Only one of my 3" springs is sitting at actual 3" of height rest are 2.5" or below. Even though zone and bds are almost identical, I rather pony up and get the warranty bds comes with or piece together springs, shocks, trackbars from better companies.
While I agree that piecing together a lift with quality parts is the best way to go (and that's exactly what I've done on mine), I think it would really be hard to do and stay within the OP's budget of $300-$600, and for someone that may have never lifted a Jeep and doesn't have any clue of the parts it takes to do it, they may or may not wind up with everything they need. At least in a kit, it's all there for them, and they learn by installing it. JM2˘
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:03 PM   #28
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While I agree that piecing together a lift with quality parts is the best way to go (and that's exactly what I've done on mine), I think it would really be hard to do and stay within the OP's budget of $300-$600, and for someone that may have never lifted a Jeep and doesn't have any clue of the parts it takes to do it, they may or may not wind up with everything they need. At least in a kit, it's all there for them, and they learn by installing it. JM2˘
I definitely agree with you it's hard to beat the price of a kit especially Zone but maybe the OP needs to think about things in the long term with his budget. I wish I definitely would have waited and spent a little more money from the beginning or just stuck to a budget boost with body lift so I'm not stuck replacing everything like I am now. My zone springs are soon to be replaced with old man emu's or the aev coils that just came back out and some bilstein 5100s or skyjacker m95s shocks
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Old 02-14-2014, 01:11 PM   #29
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I wasnt taking offense or trying to be rude. Im sorry if i came off that way. Just looked like you were trying to convince him otherwise of what his plans were which were pretty good plans. I definately agree that if not done correctly it can be dangerous.
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Old 02-14-2014, 04:44 PM   #30
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Yea I'll probably go with the 3" zone just because I'll end up running 35s eventually. I'll be at 4.25" with my bl. I wonder if zone will separate the sway bar links and t case drop from the kit so it will be cheaper? Eh who knows but yea zone seems to be best for price.

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