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Old 02-21-2012, 11:23 PM   #1
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Best Bar Pin Eliminator Kit

Basically There is the JKS style and the Rugged Ridge/rough country whatever, Zone, etc style.

The Zone style looks easiest to install, but supposedly the JKS sits tighter to the normal mount, which means your not moving the shock as much. I can see why, just by design.

Moving the shock down basically means you could have more droop but less uptravel, so you may have to add bumpstop. No one wants to do that. I am going to relocate my shock mounts on my next axle I get, but I want the best I can get for now.

Also, in your opinion, are they really worth it? looking for firsthand experience here.

Thanks everybody.

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Old 02-21-2012, 11:48 PM   #2
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bar pin eliminators seem pointless to me. if you're trashing the bushings that much on the shocks, then the shock bushing manufacturer is to fault, or you dont have enough bumpstop extensions, thats why you're beating the crap out of the bushings.

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Old 02-21-2012, 11:56 PM   #3
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My bushings might be crap, but they are holding up good. They just slide side to side on the pin, which annoys the hell out of me. haha. It seems like they just expanded and got looser. The sway bar bushings did the same thing and want to slide back and forth on the disco's. so I will prob be replacing those this spring at some point. Bumpstops are pretty good. I need to add a little extra in the rear, about four tenths of an inch, and my front are too long, at least according to the stock extension and collapsed lengths compared to my current shock lengths, I haven't gotten to cycle everything yet, waiting for a little bit warmer weather.

but anyways, the point is I just don't like them sliding back and forth on the pin. I'm OCD about that kind of thing.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:18 AM   #4
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My rear upper shock bolts all snapped when trying to remove them a few years back. I ended getting the Rough Country Rear Upper BPE. The old bolts needed to be drilled out (road salt and sand did a number on them), and I wanted the BPE's so I never had to touch those bolts again. The RC's ones allowed me to only have to remove the eye bolt and that was it to remove the shock. What a time saver from having to remove the bar pin bolts. They have been in now for a few years, still holding up.
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Old 02-22-2012, 10:50 AM   #5
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I'm with UnlimitedLJ04, I don't see the point of BPEs. I've had two different Wranglers, both of which were/are heavily modified, and I never saw the need for BPEs.
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:00 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
My bushings might be crap, but they are holding up good. They just slide side to side on the pin, which annoys the hell out of me. haha. It seems like they just expanded and got looser....

the point is I just don't like them sliding back and forth on the pin. I'm OCD about that kind of thing.
ok, thats a shock bushing manufacturer problem. sounds like the bushings are trashed because they should not be loose.
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Old 02-22-2012, 11:36 AM   #7
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bar pin eliminators seem pointless to me. if you're trashing the bushings that much on the shocks, then the shock bushing manufacturer is to fault, or you dont have enough bumpstop extensions, thats why you're beating the crap out of the bushings.
x2. My favorite solution to the problem:

Poly Performance JEEP/TRUCK & BUGGY*::*Suspension*::*Suspension & Lift Kits*::*Jeep Suspension Systems*::*1997-2006 Jeep TJ/LJ Wrangler Suspension Systems*::*Synergy Suspension*::*Synergy Suspension TJ/LJ Rear Coilover Bracket Kit - 4X4 Off-Road Part

Followed by the ford shock towers if those above are too salty.

If an axle swap is in the somewhat near future, I'd probably just deal with the bushings (or maybe get some new ones) to keep from wasting money on BPEs.
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:25 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
I'm with UnlimitedLJ04, I don't see the point of BPEs. I've had two different Wranglers, both of which were/are heavily modified, and I never saw the need for BPEs.
My problem is with the salt and sand that rust the bolts. The BPEs were the solution to never having to touch the upper shock bolts again.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:11 PM   #9
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My problem is with the salt and sand that rust the bolts. The BPEs were the solution to never having to touch the upper shock bolts again.
BPE hardware will corrode too. A better/cheaper/faster fix is to simply apply antiseize onto the hardware and into the body mount threads.
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Old 02-22-2012, 01:29 PM   #10
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I got the Teraflex ones and I like 'em.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:37 PM   #11
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Thanks for all the info guys it is a great help. It's not that I need them but would like to fix the bushing issue. I will prob just switch bushings.

I had to drill a shock bolt out a while ago but I just put a new bolt in and nut on top an good to go. The bpes are like 30 bucks but from what I can see do more harm than good. New bushings seem the way to go in my case.

And yes hopefully gona have an 8.8 swap done by the end of summer. And maybe a new front axle if fate smiles on me.
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Old 02-22-2012, 02:37 PM   #12
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BPE hardware will corrode too. A better/cheaper/faster fix is to simply apply antiseize onto the hardware and into the body mount threads.
True, but I would rather remove one larger bolt, rather then two smaller bolts that may break off.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:03 PM   #13
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For those of you who seem to think BPE are pointless and have no clue as to why you should swap out the bar pins. BPE are the best choice when replacing factory shocks. Get rid of the whole bar pin, they slide left and right every bump you hit. You can clearly hear a rattle coming from the bar pins. Purchased Bilstein 5100 Series shocks, took out the barpin/bushing. Replaced the bushings with Engery Suspention bushings [Manufacture Part #9.8107R] (Universal Shock Eyes, Standard Hourglass Shaped Style ID 5/8 in. L-1 7/16 in.) fit perfectly. Then installed JKS Front and Rear BPE (Front PN 9603) (Rear PN 9604). [Front and Rear are completely different lengths.] The shocks have no room for traveling left to right anymore. The BPE squeeze the bushings to ensure there is no left to right movement. Got rid of the rattling immediately. Any questions on installation feel free to ask.. Time consuming, but a very simple install.
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Old 04-13-2013, 01:07 PM   #14
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Two TJs over 18 years... umpteen different shocks & suspension builds but I never had a reason (no shock noises/clunks/rattles) or desire to install bar pin elimnators.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:38 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Purp420Kush View Post
For those of you who seem to think BPE are pointless and have no clue as to why you should swap out the bar pins. BPE are the best choice when replacing factory shocks.
For you they may be the best choice, but they certainly aren't for everyone. I'd rather not reduce my up-travel further than necessary.
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Old 04-13-2013, 08:55 PM   #16
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The JKS BPE only looses 1/2" of shock up travel. Not a huge loss for me. I just installed a set on the rear. I like the design, I like the fact that the bushings are preloaded and can't slide inward on the bar pin. I understand a lot of folks don't see the need. It seemed like a good idea to me. The fronts don't seem to be an issue since the shock travels straight up and down so the bushing doesn't try to slide over. The install is not time consuming; took about 15-20 minutes a side, total. I'm not posting this as any kind of argument, merely stating that I personally think they're a good idea for the rear. My opinion, and what I wanted to do.

That said, I think to say
Quote:
For those of you who seem to think BPE are pointless and have no clue as to why you should swap out the bar pins. BPE are the best choice when replacing factory shocks.
is a bit of a stretch.
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Old 04-13-2013, 10:24 PM   #17
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I never got BPE's, if anyone wondered
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:11 AM   #18
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Two TJs over 18 years... umpteen different shocks & suspension builds but I never had a reason (no shock noises/clunks/rattles) or desire to install bar pin elimnators.
Becuase your used to the sound bud. Or everything in your rig clunks and rattles so you cant even tell which clunck and rattle is what. I have selective hearing, you can definitely hear the shocks with bar pins moving off the bushing. Not only can you hear it, but heres a photo of it.

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The shock always pops out of the bushing there is nothing keeping the shock from moving off the bushing. .... Most people are too cheap, which is why I can see the need to not have BPE. Im not a froogle person. I like what is best and BPE are by far better than having bar pins slide right out of your shocks.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:13 AM   #19
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Becuase your used to the sound bud. Or everything in your rig clunks and rattles so you cant even tell which clunck and rattle is what. I have selective hearing, you can definitely hear the shocks with bar pins moving off the bushing. Not only can you hear it, but heres a photo of it.

The shock always pops out of the bushing there is nothing keeping the shock from moving off the bushing. .... Most people are too cheap, which is why I can see the need to not have BPE. Im not a froogle person. I like what is best and BPE are by far better than having bar pins slide right out of your shocks.
Don't assume the problem you have is one everyone has.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:22 AM   #20
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:25 AM   #21
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Lifesavers

Ball busters
Too many people get butt-hurt and like to start arguments, becuase they like to ALWAYS be right. I like the BPE better than bar pins and im sure if you got a sey you would also enjoy them.. Stop crying over spilled milk people.
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Old 05-08-2013, 10:41 AM   #22
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The shock always pops out of the bushing there is nothing keeping the shock from moving off the bushing. .... Most people are too cheap, which is why I can see the need to not have BPE. Im not a froogle person. I like what is best and BPE are by far better than having bar pins slide right out of your shocks.
this is a shock bushing manufacturer problem, or a bumpstop extension problem...it's not a problem with the bar pin itself.

bar pin eliminators increase the bumpstop extension requirement, because they effectively make the shock's compressed length longer. and they do corrode...just wait until you have to try to disassemble one in a few years.

again, I've never had a bar pin problem with good shocks bushings, which are bonded to the bar pin by the manufacturer....

In fact, I'm so confident in bar pins, I actually fabricated relocation shock mounts for the front of my jeep utilizing bar pin mounts, and I fabricated bar pin shock mounts for my off-road trailer.

To each their own
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Old 05-03-2014, 02:28 PM   #23
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I just decided to go with RC. While at my camp driving dirt roads my bar pin broke ! I was in 2w drive doing about 25 to 30 mph. Just installed Skyjacker nitros on my stock 08 Rubicon about 8 months ago. Had to drive 135 miles with the shock loose. I figure for 25 bucks it's worth it not to deal with that again.
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:14 AM   #24
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Purchased BPE to replace the pin rear top shock mounting on my TJ, but on receiving them noticed that the shock eye is rotated 90 degrees from the standard bar pin and does note allow for the shock to rotate in the correct direction......looks wrong to me.

On bolting the rear top BPE to body the bottom shock mounting (on axle) is off by 3" and when pushed toward the bottom mounting to locate the shock it puts a lot of stress on the shock. Basically the orginal mounting rotated front to back of Jeep and now with BPE would rotate left to right of Jeep in same direction as axle?

Looks wrong to me.....anybody experienced this before with BPE?
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