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Old 02-16-2012, 07:07 PM   #1
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Best cheap lift kit

What is the cheapest but more reliable lift kit? Including BB, BL, Suspension, etc. I'm in high school and don't have much to spend haha

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Old 02-16-2012, 07:09 PM   #2
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Don't go cheap. I am a freshman in college and I waited 2 years previously to save up $1500 for a dpg lift and it was well worth it. But also what tire size do you want to run?

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Old 02-16-2012, 07:18 PM   #3
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I'm in high school and don't have much to spend haha
then save your money for college.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:22 PM   #4
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Sophmore in college here. Bought a 2" kit from zone and love it. 230 shipped to my door with shocks. Easy to install. Might add a 1" body lift and mml. But I only have 31s so no real need.
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:24 PM   #5
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The less you spend now the more you will spend later. Just the thoughts of a 2 custom jeep owner
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Old 02-16-2012, 07:49 PM   #6
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you don't want to be cheap when lifting anything. infact you don't want to do anything cheap to your rig. it will just end up braking hopefully not while your driving it down the highway... and it will coast you more so if you look at it that way save your money and don't be that guy.

old man emu makes a 2" susp then you got skyjacker(you might have some trouble if its an auto i heard that anyways) or Teraflex. these all coast money they're not cheap but there also not a made in china spacial.
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:01 PM   #7
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Why is a suspension lift so much better? And if I got a suspension lift, would that be the only thing id have to get?
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Old 02-16-2012, 08:10 PM   #8
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Rough Country 2.5" suspension lift. $300. You can find them online with free shipping as well.

It really depends on what you're doing with your Jeep. If you're DD'ing on flatlands, a RC2.5 is just fine with up to a 33" tire. That's the route I'm taking..
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:28 PM   #9
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That rough country deal seems sweet. All id have to get is that lift kit and it'd be good? Would anyone suggest a 1" body lift added onto that also? I offroad occasionally, maybe 2-4 times per month. I'm going to buy 31" bfg a/t soon.
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:35 PM   #10
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Sky jacker has body lift for 320 with shocks or 500 with shocks and springs
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Old 02-16-2012, 11:37 PM   #11
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That rough country deal seems sweet. All id have to get is that lift kit and it'd be good? Would anyone suggest a 1" body lift added onto that also? I offroad occasionally, maybe 2-4 times per month. I'm going to buy 31" bfg a/t soon.
Rc 2.5 will be fine for 31s
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:41 AM   #12
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you'll also need a (well, more then likely need) a T-case drop kit. or if you do a body lift, you can get a motor mount lift. (these things help drive line angles) you'll also need to relocate your tracbars.

BUT. honestly, you're better off saving and getting a real lift kit. with SYE, adjustable tracbars and things like that. with just 2.5" you wont need to worry about control arms.

i've thought about this long and hard. almost bought the RC 2.5. then, almost did the zone. i've changed my mind 300 times because in the end, i know i'll be pissed with what i have, unless i just save and do it right.

and trust me, i know the budget thing. i'm in collage (paying for it myself) and have a 250 jeep payment every month. being on a budget blows. i know. but trust me. just save up for a real lift.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:07 AM   #13
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There's cheap and there's operating on a conscious value budget. Not everyone has deep pockets. Depending on the type of wheeling you do and the amount of time you take to research and understand your rig - can make for an enjoyable Jeep on a decent budget.

If all your going to do is run 31's, all you need is a 1.25" bodylift.
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Old 02-17-2012, 11:52 AM   #14
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i've thought about this long and hard. almost bought the RC 2.5. then, almost did the zone. i've changed my mind 300 times because in the end, i know i'll be pissed with what i have, unless i just save and do it right.
I'm with ya here. I've changed my mind a thousand times. Every time I think I have it, I read something else on this site that causes me to think it out. All I really know is that I'm not rock crawling, so I don't need a 4 and above. But I do go to the trail parks and do bunny trails. I'm thinking the Zone 3", because it comes with all the stuff you need to relocate/mount/raise all that need to be done. AOR on this site has quoted me a pretty good price. Plus, I might to the steering stabilizer while I'm taking all the crap apart.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:23 PM   #15
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There's so much misinformation in this thread......

OP, you could build a kickass rig on a budget without going up at all. Until you have a clue what you're doing in regards to the technical aspects, don't mess with the suspension. You'll end up with a half-ass jeep that doesn't work well, hold up well, or ride well.
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:28 PM   #16
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^ This
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:39 PM   #17
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I'm in the same boat as everyone else. I have been looking at the Zone 4.25" lift. The thing that I dont get is how can you get away with 3" springs with factory control arms? I always thought 2-2.5 was pushing it with stock arms? So is it ok to run that lift with stock arms? My Jeep would be mainly a DD with some mild trail usage but a while before hitting the rocks. DJ
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Old 02-17-2012, 12:47 PM   #18
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I'm in the same boat as everyone else. I have been looking at the Zone 4.25" lift. The thing that I dont get is how can you get away with 3" springs with factory control arms? I always thought 2-2.5 was pushing it with stock arms? So is it ok to run that lift with stock arms? My Jeep would be mainly a DD with some mild trail usage but a while before hitting the rocks. DJ
That's an absolutely open-ended subject. If you want to run stock arms on 3" springs, that's fine if you can handle living with the lost wheelbase, lack of adjustment, and crappy rubber bushings. There is no "threshold point" where stock arms just won't 'work.' The taller you go, the less well they will work. It's simple logic. A good set of arms does more than just allow adjustment for drivetrain height, caster, pinion angle, etc. They are much more durable, have more misalignment capability, and constrain the axles much better when dealing with bigger, heavier, less well-behaved tires.

The KEY to making good decisions on suspension components is to quit looking at it from a "kit" perspective but instead view it from a component perspective. What does the phrase "Zone 4.25" lift kit" tell me? Absolutely nothing that matters. What does 3" coil springs, a 1.25" body lift, and x length shocks tell me? More valuable information. Then I look at the picture and see that it only comes with the most basic components (springs, shocks, t-case drop pucks, sway bar links). IMO, you could spend your $530 wiser on more functional/effective parts.

On that note, when someone says, "I recommend this because it rides great and flexes awesome." What does that mean? WHY does it ride well, WHAT makes it flex awesome? Feel free to take the words of people that just aren't educated on the subjects at hand. I prefer a more technical approach.

Lastly, in regards to this thread--if all you want to do is run 31's, don't waste your time with some budget boost or cheap crap, along with not addressing the other changes. There's more than one way to skin a cat and "lifting it" is the most overdone, generic way of doing it.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:02 PM   #19
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Hey imped. I get what your saying and agree for the most part. My problem is that I'm obviously NOT the die hard mechanic that you are and can dissect my suspension. My life is spent correcting network backbones of enterprise systems, so I don't have the time or expense to take up another career, so in turn I ask the people here (including yourself) on opinions. I, myself would prefer the kit, because it takes the guess work out for me. But I know my driving, and my Jeep will never see the hills that yours see, so your system might not work for my application, whereas, and off the rack kit would do the job for me.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:10 PM   #20
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Hey imped. I get what your saying and agree for the most part. My problem is that I'm obviously NOT the die hard mechanic that you are and can dissect my suspension. My life is spent correcting network backbones of enterprise systems, so I don't have the time or expense to take up another career, so in turn I ask the people here (including yourself) on opinions. I, myself would prefer the kit, because it takes the guess work out for me. But I know my driving, and my Jeep will never see the hills that yours see, so your system might not work for my application, whereas, and off the rack kit would do the job for me.
My job has NOTHING to do with Jeeps, suspension, or anything else cool. Suspension is just a hobby. If you passed high school geometry you can have just as good of an understanding. For anyone that wants solid recommendations on what route to take, PM me with your particular usage, budget, and any other preferences. That's a big part of why I'm on here so often anyway.
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Old 02-17-2012, 01:12 PM   #21
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All imped is saying is do a little more research before pulling the trigger so you can get the most out of your jeep. Spend half an hour reading a night for a few weeks and you'll be amazed what you learn.

As for the control arms. Stock are kinda crappy with a lift but will work. All new control arms are pretty expensive of your purchasing quality parts.
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:07 PM   #22
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Hey imped. I get what your saying and agree for the most part. My problem is that I'm obviously NOT the die hard mechanic that you are and can dissect my suspension. My life is spent correcting network backbones of enterprise systems, so I don't have the time or expense to take up another career, so in turn I ask the people here (including yourself) on opinions. I, myself would prefer the kit, because it takes the guess work out for me. But I know my driving, and my Jeep will never see the hills that yours see, so your system might not work for my application, whereas, and off the rack kit would do the job for me.
Take your time and read. My day job has nothing to do with anything that applies to Jeep suspensions, and I've managed to learn a great deal over the last few years. Do your homework, take your time, and plan what you want to do, or at least what direction you want to start building in. You can do things in stages without wasting much money if you're smart, and with a little research you can build a Jeep as badass as Imped's. It just takes time. And reading; lots of reading.

Take Imped up on his offer and talk with him. He knows his stuff and will get you started on a build that works.
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:20 PM   #23
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31" tires you don't need a lift. Keep the suspension the same.

Now, want to run those slightly bigger tires, but still have room for wheel travel when you take it offroad? Run Bushwacker flat flares and call it done.
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:28 PM   #24
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Well whenever I go wheelin sometimes I rub on my fender flares. I don't go too often but it'd be nice to have some more flex to my jeep. You know what I mean?
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:33 PM   #25
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That's why you replace them with the Bushwacker flatties. You'd be surprised how well your stock suspension will travel with more uptravel and disconnected sway bars (disconnect for offroad use only).
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Old 02-17-2012, 03:56 PM   #26
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Question, how do you disconnect the sway bars without quick disconnects? I'm a newbie and I don't even know where to locate them.
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Old 02-17-2012, 04:00 PM   #27
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Question, how do you disconnect the sway bars without quick disconnects? I'm a newbie and I don't even know where to locate them.
You undo the bolt. It's located up and to the right of where the track bar is bolted on the pass side. Same general area on tw drivers. They are brackets coming off the axle. The links are the small metal Rods with bushings on the ends. That run from tht bracket down from the sway bar which runs across the bottom of the grill area an down to each side. You want to unbolt the bottom bolt and tie the links up somehow.
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Old 02-17-2012, 05:55 PM   #28
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That rough country deal seems sweet. All id have to get is that lift kit and it'd be good? Would anyone suggest a 1" body lift added onto that also? I offroad occasionally, maybe 2-4 times per month. I'm going to buy 31" bfg a/t soon.
while running 31's you should be good with no body lift. the body lift comes in handy when you have the 2" suspension and you up a tire size to 33's or higher because instead of raising the suspension you just raise the body. But if you do happen to get the body lift then you NEED to buy a motor mount lift because you will destroy something... I was that guy... adn it sucks! but if you have any questions jsut PM me... im in high school too and im building my Jeep also...
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:14 PM   #29
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Or you could take my advice and not bother with suspension height at all. A 1" body lift would give you just enough extra room and you could use the extra clearance between the body and frame to tuck the drivetrain and gas tank up. Build SMART. If you wheel at all, I'd take care of the tie rod, steering box skid, and oil pan skid at a bare minimum before you do anything else.
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Old 02-17-2012, 06:40 PM   #30
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All imped is saying is do a little more research before pulling the trigger so you can get the most out of your jeep. Spend half an hour reading a night for a few weeks and you'll be amazed what you learn.

As for the control arms. Stock are kinda crappy with a lift but will work. All new control arms are pretty expensive of your purchasing quality parts.
I went with the same set up as you.

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