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Old 01-09-2013, 07:48 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by ApDubzz View Post
what are "JJ's"? and would it be a good idea to get the long arm kit from rough country and convert my springs and shocks to 14'' king coilovers? or just what shocks do you suggest?
JJs = Johnny Joints. You do realize that coilovers are over $400 a shock, right? Add in the long arm kit, shock brackets, and miscellaneous stuff and you are going to have a very expensive toy to put on top of a 38" tire.

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:50 PM   #32
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it was a joke -_- because you guys are giving me general information and im on the site because im only 16 and im asking for the best advice i can get

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Old 01-09-2013, 07:51 PM   #33
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Here you go. This should get you "started" for around $7.5k.
GenRight COMP Suspension Package
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:55 PM   #34
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it was a joke -_- because you guys are giving me general information and im on the site because im only 16 and im asking for the best advice i can get
Gotcha. That lift I posted above is on my dream lift for when I finally win powerball or megamillions. I see no other way my wife would let me spring for that any other way. Heck, I'm hoping my UPS man delivers my next batch of parts before she gets home on Friday. I need to hide them and put them on slowly over the course of weeks.
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Old 01-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #35
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JJs = Johnny Joints. You do realize that coilovers are over $400 a shock, right? Add in the long arm kit, shock brackets, and miscellaneous stuff and you are going to have a very expensive toy to put on top of a 38" tire.
well i have 35's on it now, and i have the 4'' kit already and the long arm upgrade kit from rough country is 800 so should i stick with the 4 inch lift? or go bigger, and i do understand how much the coilovers are, ive got 2500 bucks right now to invest plus the money i take in. so what exactly do you suggest i do? im trying to learn here because obviously i dont know much, so start from the begining, what shocks? what long arms? should i convert to coilovers? and what suits it best for a $3500 suspension budget? thats not too crazy
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:03 PM   #36
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Gotcha. That lift I posted above is on my dream lift for when I finally win powerball or megamillions. I see no other way my wife would let me spring for that any other way. Heck, I'm hoping my UPS man delivers my next batch of parts before she gets home on Friday. I need to hide them and put them on slowly over the course of weeks.
haha i dont have that problem yet. i just want a mild suspension kit like that red jeep on the 1st page, nothing super fancy or ecpensive, i still got ither stuff to do on it haha as always
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:05 PM   #37
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Originally Posted by ApDubzz View Post
well i have 35's on it now, and i have the 4'' kit already and the long arm upgrade kit from rough country is 800 so should i stick with the 4 inch lift? or go bigger, and i do understand how much the coilovers are, ive got 2500 bucks right now to invest plus the money i take in. so what exactly do you suggest i do? im trying to learn here because obviously i dont know much, so start from the begining, what shocks? what long arms? should i convert to coilovers? and what suits it best for a $3500 suspension budget? thats not too crazy
Save the cash up and go wheel. There is where you'll learn what you need to do next. It may be lockers or as simple as you need to regear. Maybe it's your tires holding you back or your skid plate is getting hung up on everything. When you figure it out, you'll have the cash to do it right the first time. I've never seen anyone running the RC long arm kit, but if it is the same type of quality as their short arm kit, I'd look elsewhere. Basically, don't get hung up on poser shots. Go for a usable suspension that works and lasts.
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Old 01-09-2013, 08:31 PM   #38
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Originally Posted by ApDubzz View Post

yeah i see that but can any suspension do thatt with a disconnected sway bar? and if they can whats the point of 3 thousand dollar suspension kits and a 400 dollar kit with 200 dollar sway bar links?
Like I said. I can do that with stock arms 2"bb 1.25" body lift on 33"s sway bar disco'd

Attachment 196375



Attachment 196376



Attachment 196377
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Old 01-09-2013, 09:59 PM   #39
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it was a joke -_- because you guys are giving me general information and im on the site because im only 16 and im asking for the best advice i can get
You're asking an incredibly vague, general question. I gave you more information than you could possibly read in a month and if you can even learn, understand and comprehend 30% of it, you'll be 100x better off than you are now. Sit down, forget about this thread, and get to reading. That will do you more good than asking more vague questions in your thread.
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and what suits it best for a $3500 suspension budget? thats not too crazy
Quote:
Originally Posted by ApDubzz View Post
haha i dont have that problem yet. i just want a mild suspension kit like that red jeep on the 1st page, nothing super fancy or ecpensive, i still got ither stuff to do on it haha as always
So you're cool with spending $3500 on stuff you don't understand the slightest bit then you say you just want a 'mild suspension kit.' What in the world do you want? That's the problem--you have no idea. Put your money in the bank and leave it alone until you can ask some specific questions. In order to get to that point, your level of understanding suspension needs to improve quite a bit.

Here's a hint--if you want to wheel the hard stuff, you don't want a 'mild suspension kit', nor do you want to bother with the stock sway bar and quick disconnect links. There are much better ways to control articulation.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:40 PM   #40
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it was a joke -_- because you guys are giving me general information and im on the site because im only 16 and im asking for the best advice i can get
Sometimes it's best to just read.
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Old 01-09-2013, 10:45 PM   #41
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What in the world do you want? That's the problem--you have no idea. Put your money in the bank and leave it alone until you can ask some specific questions. In order to get to that point, your level of understanding suspension needs to improve quite a bit.
Stop using common sense so much!
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:02 PM   #42
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Stop using common sense so much!
That phrase is quickly becoming an oxymoron.
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:31 PM   #43
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yeah i see that but can any suspension do thatt with a disconnected sway bar? and if they can whats the point of 3 thousand dollar suspension kits and a 400 dollar kit with 200 dollar sway bar links?

This video might be good for you to see:



And this thread too:
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/home...cts-51982.html
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:35 PM   #44
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Just go lay under your jeep for an hour and look at your suspension. Understand every part you see and what it does. Maybe then things will start to click
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Old 01-09-2013, 11:51 PM   #45
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Just go lay under your jeep for an hour and look at your suspension. Understand every part you see and what it does. Maybe then things will start to click
This is actually very good advice. It's really (really) hard to attempt to set up any kind of suspension if you have no idea about the geometry and function of everything from control arms to drive line angles and steering components.
Yes, you need to start somewhere to learn, but some basic understanding is required.
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:13 AM   #46
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Gotcha. That lift I posted above is on my dream lift for when I finally win powerball or megamillions. I see no other way my wife would let me spring for that any other way. Heck, I'm hoping my UPS man delivers my next batch of parts before she gets home on Friday. I need to hide them and put them on slowly over the course of weeks.
Glad I'm not the only one! I just use my credit card so she doesn't see it one the bank statement and have it delivered to work and my boss puts it in his office. She's pretty understanding when it comes to small items but anything over $100 requires an explanation!
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Old 01-10-2013, 12:38 AM   #47
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Glad I'm not the only one! I just use my credit card so she doesn't see it one the bank statement and have it delivered to work and my boss puts it in his office. She's pretty understanding when it comes to small items but anything over $100 requires an explanation!
Apparently mom & dad dont check his credit card!
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Old 01-10-2013, 06:35 AM   #48
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what do you have done to your suspension?

Nothing special.... I will throw the brand names out there, too.... prices were right at the time and they serve me well to date with no issues

4" coils ( Rough Country )
adj. control arms ( Rocky Road Outfitters )
Rocky Road Outfitter shocks
swaybar disconnects ( Rubicon Express )
1.25" BL ( Rough Country )
UCF High Clearance Skid with LoPro mount
Rugged Ridge SYE
Tatton Rear CV shaft
RE1602 Rear Angled CV trackbar bracket.

Some additional info in Sig below...

There are much better quality parts on the market than what I have....

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Old 01-10-2013, 07:38 AM   #49
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What you should of done was taken your Jeep out when it was pretty much stock and see how capable it is in that form with maybe just a set of discos. Then you would of had a better idea what you actually need . You would also find that it was probably better off-road before the 4" RC and BL .
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:02 AM   #50
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What you should of done was taken your Jeep out when it was pretty much stock and see how capable it is in that form with maybe just a set of discos. Then you would of had a better idea what you actually need . You would also find that it was probably better off-road before the 4" RC and BL .
If you are referring to me.... ( maybe not )

I had a 2" BB on 31's in 2011. With discos, I did the Rubicon and drug my undercarriage everywhere... having to replace front lowers, skid and tank skid. I piece-milled my lift from various CL buys and couldn't be happier with what I have for the price. the BL was added after the 4" SL to make room for the TT at the t-case...well worth the added 2" of belly clearance.

And to answer your question of, "You would also find that it was probably better off-road before the 4" RC and BL "... NO... it was not better. The articulation was much less than with stock springs and BB... the ride was much harsher as well(mainly due to shocks). I cannot complain one bit with my capabilities in off-camber situations as I can now keep all 4 wheels on the ground and maintain traction as with before on 2" BB and 31's I would have to power over, lifting a wheel and dropping in when I finally made it... often making several attempts.... and I'm not getting bounced around as I was before (a lot has to do with going from 31's and 3.07's to 33's and 4.56's)
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:05 AM   #51
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Here's a very simple question I'd like to see some answers to.



What ultimately defines how much travel a suspension has?
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:25 AM   #52
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Here's a very simple question I'd like to see some answers to.

What ultimately defines how much travel a suspension has?
The answer to that question would be multi-faceted.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:28 AM   #53
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The answer to that question would be multi-faceted.
Well, let's make assumptions that nothing wacky is going on. For example, a stock TJ and/or a TJ with a properly done suspension. The answer is simple and one-worded.
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:35 AM   #54
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the choice is obvious stock springs with 4" pucks ... stock shocks ... and a 4" bodly lift with an 8 inch transfer case drop
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Old 01-10-2013, 08:52 AM   #55
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Just get a Savvy 4 inch short arm kit and be done with it. Order the shocks they suggest and you will flex with most anything short armed. Imped and a few others have well thought out daily driver long arm rigs but they spent the time and money to get it right. Rough country is known for stiff joints which resist flex. JJ means Johnny Joints designed by John Currie. Those are what you get in the savvy kit. Unless you plan to spend well over 2 grand then what they are saying is to get some quick disconnects for your sway bar and you will be surprised at what your present kit will do with just that and correct length shocks. Don't forget to make sure the brake lines are long enough.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:03 AM   #56
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If you are referring to me.... ( maybe not )

I had a 2" BB on 31's in 2011. With discos, I did the Rubicon and drug my undercarriage everywhere... having to replace front lowers, skid and tank skid. I piece-milled my lift from various CL buys and couldn't be happier with what I have for the price. the BL was added after the 4" SL to make room for the TT at the t-case...well worth the added 2" of belly clearance.

And to answer your question of, "You would also find that it was probably better off-road before the 4" RC and BL "... NO... it was not better. The articulation was much less than with stock springs and BB... the ride was much harsher as well(mainly due to shocks). I cannot complain one bit with my capabilities in off-camber situations as I can now keep all 4 wheels on the ground and maintain traction as with before on 2" BB and 31's I would have to power over, lifting a wheel and dropping in when I finally made it... often making several attempts.... and I'm not getting bounced around as I was before (a lot has to do with going from 31's and 3.07's to 33's and 4.56's)
I am refering to the person who this thread pertains.. OP
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:07 AM   #57
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Imped and a few others have well thought out daily driver long arm rigs but they spent the time and money to get it right.
They're longer than stock but I wouldn't call them 'long arms.' But I also don't really give a crap about defining my arm length with a title. They're about 24" long and that's what they are.

Also, still waiting for someone to answer my question.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:25 AM   #58
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They're longer than stock but I wouldn't call them 'long arms.' But I also don't really give a crap about defining my arm length with a title. They're about 24" long and that's what they are.

Also, still waiting for someone to answer my question.
Yeah, me too.
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Old 01-10-2013, 09:52 AM   #59
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Answer: Shocks

Your axle can't travel any further up than the shock's compressed length, nor can it travel any further down than the shock's extended length. So when people pose up on walls and say "look how flexy this XYZ stuff is", I always first look at the shock mounts/coil mounts to see if they've been modified. If they're stock, then it's not the XYZ stuff being 'flexy.' It's simply the axles doing what they do and the shocks preventing any further travel.

I don't care if you've got 3" Currie springs or 3" ProComp springs--if you've got stock mounts and haven't done anything to effectively allow the use of longer shocks, then your shocks are about the same length as the next guy's on XYZ 3" springs. Therefore, your Jeep will 'flex' just as much as his regardless of what else you've got going on with your suspension.

So with that said, a few more questions to help provoke some actual technical discussion in order to help some people learn.

What are the purpose of bump stops and how does one go about determining where they should sit?

What happens when your shock allows more travel than your spring can support?

What happens when your shock travel exceeds the range of motion limitations of the control arm and track bar bushings?

And here's a big one--why does running disconnected put those of us with coil/link suspension at a disadvantage?
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Old 01-10-2013, 10:09 AM   #60
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Yes, shocks are the main contributing, or limiting, factor in overall travel. But, there are other things to consider that will affect travel, especially up-travel.Example- What if you have a 3" spring spacer and a front track bar that hits your fancy aluminum front diff cover? You would add appropriate bump stops, but you've severely limited up-travel, no matter how much compression the shock absorber might have left.
I'm not arguing, I'm discussing..

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