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Old 08-01-2013, 10:38 PM   #1
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Bigger tires, Lift kit? New gears?

hey guys, i am not new to owning a jeep but i am definitely new to customizing it. it started with my bumper last year and recently aftermarket lighting. now i am wanting to put 35in tires on my rig. i have a couple of questions for you jeep experts

first off i have stock 4.10 gears in my rig, with 30in tires. if i go to 35's will i need a lift? and will i need to change out my gears?

secondly, i would greatly appreciate any recommendations as far as lifts are concerned. they vary so greatly in price and i'm not entirely sure what i'm looking at. i don't want anything greater than a 4 inch lift. i've noticed kits that are 400 and come with shocks and some kits that are 1200 and don't come with shocks.

and finally with 35in tires, would a steering stabalizer necessary? a good idea? or just another cute toy to strap on?

everything with the exception of my bumper and lights are stock/factory spec

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Old 08-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #2
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You'll need a lift and/or high clearance fenders. 35s are pricey, because you will also need steering upgrades like tie rod, etc. Stabilizer? Wouldn't help much. One question: what will you use your jeep for? If only mild trails, I would just go with 33s as they're a lot less work.

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Old 08-01-2013, 10:58 PM   #3
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Wow certainly a lot of questions, start searching around on the forum and familiarize yourself with lifts and driveline angles for sure. A lot goes in to running 35's correctly. To start off yes you will definitely need lift and with the height you will need you will also likely need to do a cv/sye driveshaft to correct driveline angles.

Before you go any further you need to confirm which rear axel you have. The Dana 35 has a rubber fill plug and the Dana 44 is metal plug. This is very important because running 35s on a Dana 35 is just asking for trouble. If it is a Dana 35 then you will need swap it out or limit yourself to running 33" tires max.

As for gears it depends on whether it is auto or manual transmission. With manual I believe most recommend at least 4.56 or 4.88.

There is so much that needs to be done for this so I hope I have at least helped point you in the right direction. Use this forum and research research research before you start buying things.

Good luck, welcome to the forum!
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:11 PM   #4
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ok thanks guys i didn't realize that much work was going to be required for 35's what kind of work would 33's require?

and yes i am aiming for light trails mostly... it is my primary vehicle with the exception of my company vehicle so i don't want to make it completely impractical for off trail use
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Old 08-01-2013, 11:16 PM   #5
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ok maybe i should have just gone about this differently lets put it this way... i currently have 30 inch tires, i would like a little more ground clearance. should i just lift it a bit, bigger tires or a combination of the two?

i'm not trying to cheap out i just want to accomplish this within a reasonable budget
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:47 AM   #6
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combination of the two...

Heres a read up for running 35's...i'm currently running 35's and can tell you first hand it isnt cheap. My rig goes in next week for a slip yoke, cv shaft, front and rear lower control arms, front and rear upper control arms, new track bar, new brake lines, and new front springs. Two weeks ago i had chromoly axle shafts put in the front, new gears installed front and rear, new 8.8 axle put in the rear, and a heavy duty high clearance steering system installed.

So far with the tires included, i'm at about 4500...and thats with a great deal on everything.

35 readup: http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/i-...-my-tj-751873/


For 33's...you'll still need a lift. Most common lift is a 4" suspension lift with slip yoke and cv shaft or the popular zone 4.25" lift which is a combination of 3" suspension and 1.25" body lift.

the 4.25" kit is nice for a budget kit and also gives you the 1.25" body lift so you've got the ability to start/do a tummy tuck in the future. And before you ask, a tummy tuck requires more than just a body lift and skids but essentially it gives you about 2.5" more clearance under the belly because you get rid of the low hanging tcase skid.

good luck...

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Old 08-02-2013, 08:49 AM   #7
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Quality and correctness cost money.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:06 AM   #8
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Also look into DPG Offroad. The guy that runs it will set you up with a kit that can run 33's that is similar to the Zone combo lift but it's all Old Man Emu stuff (high quality). Not saying zone stuff is crap, but their shocks aren't quite as good as OME's from what I've heard. As a former beginner in the world of jeep mods, Dirk at DPG was very helpful to me for setting up my jeep with the right spring rates for what I needed and gave me confidence that I was getting all the right part numbers for the trackbars, swaybar links, etc. all at a fair price.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:08 AM   #9
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Quality and correctness cost money.
There's never been two more true things said on this forum.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:16 AM   #10
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newb question. what does CV/SYE stand for? (guess i could have googled it...)
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #11
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newb question. what does CV/SYE stand for? (guess i could have googled it...)
You could've......

SYE = slip yoke eliminator. It's a tail housing for the rear output of your 231 transfer case that replaces the factory slip yoke with a fixed yoke so that a double cardan drive shaft can be implemented.

CV = constant velocity. A more accurate term for a "CV" drive shaft is a double cardan drive shaft.

Read:
http://www.4xshaft.com/driveline101.html
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:18 AM   #12
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newb question. what does CV/SYE stand for? (guess i could have googled it...)
CV = Constant Velocity joint (really its a Double Cardin joint)
SYE = Slip Yoke Eliminator
You can google what they do to save from high jacking the thread
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:24 AM   #13
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You can google what they do to save from high jacking the thread
yupp also sub'd because I want to eventually do the same thing, a lift with 35's so this is great info.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:25 AM   #14
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ok maybe i should have just gone about this differently lets put it this way... i currently have 30 inch tires, i would like a little more ground clearance. should i just lift it a bit, bigger tires or a combination of the two?

i'm not trying to cheap out i just want to accomplish this within a reasonable budget
Flat skid would net you a couple inches. A tire that's 1" bigger would gain you a 1/2". 33s=1.5" lift over 30s.
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:35 AM   #15
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Flat skid would net you a couple inches. A tire that's 1" bigger would gain you a 1/2". 33s=1.5" lift over 30s.
But in order to do a flat skid you need adjustable control arms, 1" body lift, 1" mml, sye, and cv shaft...

A flat skid is not a simple plug and play...
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Old 08-02-2013, 09:40 AM   #16
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newb question. what does CV/SYE stand for? (guess i could have googled it...)
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com

Quote:
Originally Posted by JAHouse View Post
ok thanks guys i didn't realize that much work was going to be required for 35's what kind of work would 33's require?

and yes i am aiming for light trails mostly... it is my primary vehicle with the exception of my company vehicle so i don't want to make it completely impractical for off trail use
I run 33s. here's how I set up my stuff... Unlimited04's LJ Build - JeepForum.com
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Old 08-02-2013, 10:17 AM   #17
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But in order to do a flat skid you need adjustable control arms, 1" body lift, 1" mml, sye, and cv shaft...

A flat skid is not a simple plug and play...
Yes, but so far we don't have a budget to go by. I think 33s would be his best option when considering his wheeling. If OP keeps it stock, he could go with new fender/flares, 33s, plus a skid, with half of the things he would normally need.
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Old 08-02-2013, 07:46 PM   #18
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Yes, but so far we don't have a budget to go by. I think 33s would be his best option when considering his wheeling. If OP keeps it stock, he could go with new fender/flares, 33s, plus a skid, with half of the things he would normally need.
well i'm not sure where to even begin with a budget, but for just the sake of conversation lets say $1500 (not including tires obviously) is that even possible or do i need to look at around 2500? Keep in mind i have a mechanic buddy who is going to work on this with me just for the fun of it so we are talking parts only (for the most part)
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Old 08-02-2013, 08:51 PM   #19
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There's also tube fenders that allow you to run larger tires on a stock jeep. Most kinds you have to trim your hood a little, but Metalcloak makes some awesome tube fenders that are directly bolt on with no alterations to the body. If you just wanted to run bigger tires and don't really need a lift this would be the route to go, they are much cheaper than doing a lift, so you will have some money for doing a possible TT
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:47 PM   #20
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TT? sorry i'm not up and up on all the acronyms

also can anyone tell me if this is a quality product and if it would come with all the things i needed... if it doesn't what else needs to be added?
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Old 08-02-2013, 11:51 PM   #21
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Tummy Tuck aka flat skid, eliminates that fat belly under the jeep

Link? I don't see one?
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:09 AM   #22
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TT? sorry i'm not up and up on all the acronyms

also can anyone tell me if this is a quality product and if it would come with all the things i needed... if it doesn't what else needs to be added?
What product are you talking about?
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Old 08-03-2013, 12:15 AM   #23
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A tummy tuck aka TT brings the transfer case skid plate up even with the frame, for doing a tummy tuck you typically need an SYE (slip yoke eliminator) and a CV driveshaft, and also adjustable rear upper control arms. To do a TT right would cost around 1000$ but it would give you as much if not more clearance than a lift, personally I feel a lift without a TT is a waste because even though you have a lift you still have that big shovel for a skid plate
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Old 08-03-2013, 06:53 AM   #24
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I just did a tummy tuck yesterday and had 1500 just in the 8 control arms and the flat skid. I already had the body and mml. (mml = motor mount lift) SYE and CV shaft. With the TT I gained an extra 2 inches!!!

I am tickled at the ride quality that I have now, I thought the Jeep rode great before, all I can say is wow, the adjust. control arms improved it 10 fold!

OP, you have a lot of reading to do and decisions to make. I am going 35's next once my tires wear a bit, but I am so very content with 33's.

as my grandaddy would always say
"Son, it takes money to buy whiskey and ride a train"
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Old 08-03-2013, 11:29 AM   #25
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$1500 is a reasonable estimate without a tummy tuck. With a TT, $2500 is more realistic. My DPG ultimate kit was $1500 shipped to my front door. Only thing I'd change in the kit is get metalcloak trackbars instead of the JKS ones.
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Old 08-03-2013, 04:58 PM   #26
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What product are you talking about?

oops i forgot to post the link... sorry

Rancho Suspension Rancho Suspension Kits for Jeep - JCWhitney
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Old 08-03-2013, 05:02 PM   #27
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i ask mainly because i see jeep dealerships push them if you get a lift there. also for the record and i do realize that the kit i posted doesn't come with shocks

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