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Old 11-17-2009, 09:01 AM   #1
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body armor install


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Old 11-17-2009, 09:15 AM   #2
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It comes with 3M double sided tape.

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Old 11-17-2009, 09:32 AM   #3
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Quote:
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It comes with 3M double sided tape.
You may want to look again.These are steel not the plastic with two sided tape.These will come with self taping screws.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:35 AM   #4
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^ woops, thanks I stand corrected. Neighbor just bought the plastic ones that came with tape. thought he got the warrior, guess not.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:38 AM   #5
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You will have to remove your filler neck mount,both tail lights,license plate and the mount behind the plate.It looks to have the cut outs for the gate hinges so that is good.
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:38 AM   #6
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Never mind.... already answered while I was typing
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Old 11-17-2009, 09:47 AM   #7
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I put some of those on my 02. I white RTV all the way around the back side edge and riveted it to the body. reason for the RTV was to keep dirt and crud from getting behind it.
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Old 11-17-2009, 10:49 AM   #8
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did anyone put some rubber gasket type material behind them (like a sheet)? and would self tapping screws be best? how about black rivets...
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:03 AM   #9
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Hi,
I actually just got done this weekend putting that product on "Silver"....She's my '06 X.
These are a decent enough product, but would more then likely stick with the black powder coated aluminum. The 12g steel are very durable, but have hurdles that will need to be addressed.
1st off it took a very lengthy amount of time to get them to line up and the holes don't always seem to be 100% accurate. With patience and determination it was unnecessary to use any type of gasket behind them. They come with black colored rivets. Use a 3/16" drill bit to make the holes. I would suggest removing the inner wheel well sections nearest the rear and having multiple C-clamps and protective rubber padding or plywood squares to hold the pieces while drilling. I just spoke to WP yesterday about some of the fitment issues and some of the holes not quite lining up with absolute accuracy. They are aware of issues with hinge side being slightly off.
Overall I would give this project a technical level of 4 or 5 and it requires allot of accuracy. Check 3 times drill once.

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Old 11-17-2009, 11:07 AM   #10
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I chose to use spray on Lithium grease on the tub and on the corner gaurds to protect against rust. According to WP there will be approximately a 1/4" space at the rear most contour. I refused to accept that and got mine to with in a 1/16" - 1/8".... I also used spray Silicon on each of the rivets while inserting them as to aid in installation and rust retardation.

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Old 11-17-2009, 11:10 AM   #11
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^ pics of them on the jeep?
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:22 AM   #12
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Spraying any type of LUBE on there is not wise. It will attract dirt and sand. And that wil grind into the paint. Like I said above I used a colored RTV on the back edge. So when the rivets putted tight it oozed out a little. i then just too a rag and wiped off the excess. Do this on ALL the edges, even the holes for the tail lights. You want to seal the panel up tight so no water or crud gets in.
DO NOT USE self tapping screws. They will fall out. the metal is too thin to hold them in.
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Old 11-17-2009, 11:23 AM   #13
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A rivet gun or tool is cheap maybe 10 bucks at Walmart or most auto places,
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Old 11-17-2009, 01:54 PM   #14
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IMO Use RVT around each hole instead of around all the edges so the area behind can breath. At the least, leave the bottom open so anything getting in behind has a way to get out.
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Old 11-17-2009, 02:03 PM   #15
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IMO Use RVT around each hole instead of around all the edges so the area behind can breath. At the least, leave the bottom open so anything getting in behind has a way to get out.
What? If air can get out salt and dirt can get in. Im gonna go poke holes in my tires so they can breath.....
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Old 11-17-2009, 03:38 PM   #16
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^ you dont get it...
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Old 11-17-2009, 04:00 PM   #17
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You dont want to leave the back of that guard open to salt and dirt. Seal it and forget it.
I am old and dont care, But when I give you advice you can take to bank that I learned the hard way and dont want you to repeat a mistake I made.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:28 PM   #18
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As long as you are absolutely 100+% sure everything is completly sealed with no gaps. Examples: gas filler, around taillights, and each and every screw or rivet hole. Also what about condensation that could form between the inner body and the armor plates due to temperature differences? As for your tires, have you ever noticed how the inside of your rims can rust? This happens because moisture was introduced with the air. That's why air compressors have moisture traps. I'm sure not suggesting you punch holes in your tires! Also I suggested leaving the bottom open not the back.
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Old 11-17-2009, 07:57 PM   #19
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I dont have time to explain all, but compressed air and the gap between the body and armor is 2 different things. The amount of moisture in the gap is almost a moot point. Seal it up and forget about it.

. I was joking about the tires.............

To the OP do what ever you want.

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