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Old 10-19-2012, 10:07 AM   #1
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Body-Lift or not to Body-Lift...

So I've read all sorts of posts singing the praises of body-lifts (BLs) for jeeps and am contemplating whether or not one would be right for my rig.

From what I gather, thou shall not exceed 1.25", though I'd be interested in why this is a "magic" number. I've also learned that a modest BL opens up some opportunities beyond tire clearance. I've read a couple of threads that note that with a BL one can increase ground clearance by "tucking" various components into the increased space between body and frame, (fuel tank skids, etc.). Very cool. My immediate build goal is to construct something that is as capable as possible while running on 31's rubber.

Therefore a BL seems like something to consider.

However, once upon a time I had a Toyota pickup (back in the day when they devoid of proper names), with a 3" BL. I ran 33s for years with it and all was good, but for the mess it made of my shift handles. Because the body moved up 3" relative to the frame and transmision, the handles dropped 3" closer to the floor and required signifigant trimming of the transmision tunnel for clearance to keep it in 2nd gear/reverse.

I vowed never to go this way again.

That being said, I might consider breaking my vow IF someone could suggest a way to eliminate or mitigate the shift lever drop. I'd imagine there might be some modified linkage which might help, or perhaps a more experienced member of this forum could provide some insight?

Thanks

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Old 10-19-2012, 10:15 AM   #2
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Some people on here will tell you any sort of body lift is bad. Ignore them. As you said using a body can open up more options like tummy tuck and a gas tank tuck. And thing over 1.25" and you start causing transfer case linkage issues, trans link issues having to relocate your fan shroud. But if you us a MML (Motor Motor Mount Lift) with a body lift then you dont have to mess with the fan shroud and it helps correct drive line issues.

And another note on why you dont go bigger on a body lift is it just looks really dumb!

As you can see from my sig I have a 1.25" body and a 1" motor and I have never had issues.

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Old 10-19-2012, 10:16 AM   #3
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There are several "belly up" skidplates that you can use. it'll give you some room for slighty larger tires. 1" is the acceptable height, as you can add 1" MM lift to keep the body and driveline oriented correctly. And anything more than that looks horrbile and will make your tcase linkage very unhappy.

Here are some things to look at as well :
LOPRO mount Under Cover Fabworks, LLC - UCF LOPRO ('97-'02 TJ) Trans. Mount

Novak Shifter Novak's 231 & 242 Cable Shifter Kit
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:25 AM   #4
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Originally Posted by TJspeed View Post
Some people on here will tell you any sort of body lift is bad. Ignore them. As you said using a body can open up more options like tummy tuck and a gas tank tuck. And thing over 1.25" and you start causing transfer case linkage issues, trans link issues having to relocate your fan shroud. But if you us a MML (Motor Motor Mount Lift) with a body lift then you dont have to mess with the fan shroud and it helps correct drive line issues.

And another note on why you dont go bigger on a body lift is it just looks really dumb!

As you can see from my sig I have a 1.25" body and a 1" motor and I have never had issues.
Oh yeah...It's all comming back to me now. I recall a VERY frustrating experience, having to drop the whole rediator, extend the fuel filler hoses...yeah it sucked alright.

So I'm guessing that by raising the drive train up (with the body) it will virtually cancel the effect the BL has on the shifters relative to the floor? If so then, then I wonder why the motor mount shims included witht the BL kit?
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:31 AM   #5
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Correct. Do a 1" body lift, high clearance t-case skid of your choice, and address the transfer case linkage with the Novak cable setup. Properly address the exhaust hanger @ the transmission mount bracket and the rear t-case output and you'll be a very, very happy camper. Both of my shifters feel better than they did from the factory, the 1" body lift is virtually invisible, and I have an extra 4.5" at the belly.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:31 AM   #6
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I'd imagine the shims are for changing the angle of the driveline... Sounds cloogy. MML is your firend.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:36 AM   #7
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I went with the 1" daystar bl and JKS 1" mml. I liked the daystar kit because it replaced your entire mount and was not just a puck on top of your stock mount. I did them both at the same time so I didnt have any radiator shroud or transfer case linkage problems.
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Old 10-19-2012, 10:47 AM   #8
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Correct. Do a 1" body lift, high clearance t-case skid of your choice, and address the transfer case linkage with the Novak cable setup. Properly address the exhaust hanger @ the transmission mount bracket and the rear t-case output and you'll be a very, very happy camper. Both of my shifters feel better than they did from the factory, the 1" body lift is virtually invisible, and I have an extra 4.5" at the belly.
Any suggestions as to which brands/parts are best?
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:30 AM   #9
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In my personal opinion, it's REAL hard to beat the plain-Jane stupid-simple high quality low cost 1" body lift from Performance Accessories.

To me, spending more to replace the rubber body mounts just doesn't make sense since the OE rubber body mounts typically outlast our Jeeps. I helped a friend do a frame-up total restoration of his 1973 CJ5 Jeep and once we got the tub off, we both noticed how the rubber body mounts still looked nearly as good as the day they were installed.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:38 AM   #10
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Nothing wrong with the factory rubber mounts, lots wrong with poly though. I have the Savvy AL body lift with the factory rubber and couldnt be happier.
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Old 10-19-2012, 11:44 AM   #11
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Nothing wrong with the factory rubber mounts, lots wrong with poly though. I have the Savvy AL body lift with the factory rubber and couldnt be happier.
Two common issues with poly mounts which is why OE automotive manufacturers don't use polyurethane mounts... it tends to squeak and it definitely passes vibrations more readily into the passenger compartment.
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:34 PM   #12
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Correct!
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Old 10-19-2012, 12:55 PM   #13
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1.25" BL is about perfect for a little added clearance for tires or tub clearance for TT and MML.... I have the Rough Country 1.25" BL and a UCF extra clearance skid.... the BL made it all the difference for me for tires on full stuff and for the TT. and you can't really tell it's there...

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Old 10-26-2012, 07:03 AM   #14
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Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:04 AM   #15
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Quote:
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Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
Ehhhh, you can tell its there if you look for it, compared to stock height
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:06 AM   #16
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Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
1" plus whatever your bigger tires add..my wifes has a 3" and to me looks great..floorboards don't get hot at all without carpet..repositioning the radiator and notching out for the shifter is not a big job and the driveline stayed stock,thus no mods to them which adds to longevity and keeps it smooth
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Old 10-26-2012, 08:26 AM   #17
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Does a 1 bl add a noticeable amount of over all height
About an inch worth.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:54 AM   #18
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This Thread is about 6 months old now, but i'm sure there are some people like me that peruse these things to the death...so I wanted to bring this back from the dead and add that I don't think anyone has mentioned the other implications of a tummy tuck...if that's the route you're going. In order to achieve the high clearance Tcase skid, you will need a Slip Yoke Elim+Extended drive shaft. The slip yoke Elim is a pretty simple purchase, but the extended drive shaft is custom made to the measurements you send to the manufacturer (such as Tom Woods).

Just a heads up for anyone looking into gaining some ground clearance with a BL as opposed to a Suspension lift.

Cheers.
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Old 04-10-2013, 08:05 PM   #19
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Wow it's great to see there's still some interest in this thread. I had wrote it off for dead. Your right, I have read that the tummy tuck can be quite involved. That being said, it seems like a sensible modification in that it raises ground clearance without increasing the height of the center of gravity. These guys did a great job of helping me confirm my decision to go forward with the BL + MML. I'm not really looking for a bunch more overall height right now (running a fresh set of 31" BFG/ATs), rather trying to build a base upon which to keep as many options open as possible.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:13 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
To me, spending more to replace the rubber body mounts just doesn't make sense since the OE rubber body mounts typically outlast our Jeeps.
My rubber body mounts lasted a mere 6 years underneath my '03 Rubicon. I upgraded to urethane and later to the Daystar BL.

You really can't see my Body Lift on the Jeep. Plus, I was able to get rid of the Transfer Case drop brackets.
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Old 04-10-2013, 09:16 PM   #21
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Here is what my Motor Mount Lift looks like installed.



Do yourself a favor, and go with the Urethane Motor Mount Lift - such as the Currie brand MML.

MML Installation

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4" 33" to 35"
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Old 04-11-2013, 07:19 AM   #22
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^^^^ Only do that if you replace your transmission mounts with urethane. Combining the two can lead to excessive cabin vibration from the drivetrain. The brown dog rubber mounts I have work great with less added vibration.
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Old 04-11-2013, 08:35 PM   #23
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Going to be doing both the motor mount lift and the body lift at one inch with my added 3 inches on my suspension lift plus flatline fender conversion to stuff some 35's under my TJ
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Old 04-11-2013, 11:24 PM   #24
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im slightly confused...and perhaps its my lack of bl knowledge..but when you raise the body ur moving it farther from the trans..transfer case ect ect...I know the gas tank down pipe gets extended and the shifter does as well..but what about the transfercase handle? and wouldn't lifting the motor technically move the trans and transfer? and does this not always change the angle of the driveshafts since the axles stay in the same place? Forgive me if I sound na´ve on this as I have never done a BL..but I am looking into one and want to have my bases covered!
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Old 04-12-2013, 12:01 AM   #25
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im slightly confused...and perhaps its my lack of bl knowledge..but when you raise the body ur moving it farther from the trans..transfer case ect ect...I know the gas tank down pipe gets extended and the shifter does as well..but what about the transfercase handle? and wouldn't lifting the motor technically move the trans and transfer? and does this not always change the angle of the driveshafts since the axles stay in the same place? Forgive me if I sound na´ve on this as I have never done a BL..but I am looking into one and want to have my bases covered!
I once did a 2" BL on my Ford Ranger 4x4 and now a 1" BL on my Jeep TJ. The 2" BL needed a steering shaft extension, and the 1" does not. My Jeep required a transfer case extension bracket, but the stick shifter did not require an extension (like the 2" Performance Accessories BL did). My 1" Body lift did not come with many parts...which was a very good thing! I had the BL and the MML installed simultaneously.
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4" 33" to 35"
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Old 04-12-2013, 07:33 AM   #26
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im slightly confused...and perhaps its my lack of bl knowledge..but when you raise the body ur moving it farther from the trans..transfer case ect ect...I know the gas tank down pipe gets extended and the shifter does as well..but what about the transfercase handle? and wouldn't lifting the motor technically move the trans and transfer? and does this not always change the angle of the driveshafts since the axles stay in the same place? Forgive me if I sound na´ve on this as I have never done a BL..but I am looking into one and want to have my bases covered!
Let me try and answer these for you.

Most people will recommend the Novak Cable conversion for the transfercase, but even without it the handle doesn't need adjusting. The handle doesnt connect directly to the transfercase like the transmission shifter does. It use a Z gate which just needs some adjusting (usually with new brackets) in order to keep it working smoothly). I recommend the Novak, I have it on my and it makes shifting into 4hi 4lo etc like butter and it never binds like the Z gate can.

Lifting the motor one in will essentialy pivot the drivetrain around the transmission mount on the transfercase skid. Basically it only moves the transmission and transfercase a small amount (less than an inch) This will also slightly change the output shaft angles on the transfercase but again its only slightly, sometimes its enough to fix vibrations though.

With a 1.25in BL the gas filler neck may or may not need extending, I haven't had any issues with mine at this point.

GL!
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Old 04-13-2013, 05:00 PM   #27
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So with a 1.25 BL & 1" MML you should be ok without cutting the tub? I just installed new springs and shocks for 2.5" and bought the BL & MML at the same time, I didn't install it due to time and I wanted to know what I was up against. I have 31s on my 98 TJ 2.5 now, I wouldn't mind the extra 1.25 but I don't need it ether, just hate to have it sitting there. Can this be a 1 person Job?
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Old 04-15-2013, 08:21 AM   #28
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So with a 1.25 BL & 1" MML you should be ok without cutting the tub? I just installed new springs and shocks for 2.5" and bought the BL & MML at the same time, I didn't install it due to time and I wanted to know what I was up against. I have 31s on my 98 TJ 2.5 now, I wouldn't mind the extra 1.25 but I don't need it ether, just hate to have it sitting there. Can this be a 1 person Job?
No tub cutting, no fan shroud moving/ cutting. The BL could be done by 1 person, the MML helps to have the extra set of hands.
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Old 04-15-2013, 01:33 PM   #29
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Thanks, working on my jeep seems to ease the mind
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Old 04-15-2013, 02:15 PM   #30
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I like my 1.25" BL from JKS and MML.Everybody can use an extra inch But in all seriousness it allowed me to fit my UCF ultra-high clearance tummy tuck, which is one of my favorite mods on my Jeep. the tummy tuck put my shifter/transmission right back to stock height and now when i throw it into 3rd gear the shifter doesnt hit my dash bezel. As for the transfer case shifter, i installed a Novak cable, which works wonders. going into 4low is never a problem anymore, just any easy pull.
Only downside to the BL is that one inch gap between the frame and tub, but it's nothing major.

Thats how she sits with 2.5" of lift and a 1" BL and 33s. The tummy tuck really allowed me to conquer trails i wasn't able to before
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