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Old 03-30-2011, 02:25 PM   #1
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Brake fluid flush

I have a 98 jeep wrangler and I need help flushing the brakes. Do I have to open all of the bleeder valves at the same time or can I do each one separately?

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Old 03-30-2011, 02:57 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cartmanpig92 View Post
I have a 98 jeep wrangler and I need help flushing the brakes. Do I have to open all of the bleeder valves at the same time or can I do each one separately?

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You do them one at a time. Starting passenger side rear, then drivers side rear, to passenger side front and drivers side front.

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Old 03-30-2011, 02:57 PM   #3
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Definitely do no open all the valves at one time. Its been several years since I've done that but if I remember right you should start at the furtherest away from the master cylinder (right rear) and doing one at a time work to the left front last. If you've never done this before you should get some help, as if not done right you'll end up with air in the lines and no brakes.
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Old 03-30-2011, 03:08 PM   #4
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I've bled my brakes before and that's the way I did it. So I'm guessing you just continue with that until its all out? Do you keep filling in the reservoir with fluid as it goes down or do you bleed it all out and then fill with new fluid and bleed for air?

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Old 03-30-2011, 03:12 PM   #5
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Originally Posted by Cartmanpig92 View Post
I've bled my brakes before and that's the way I did it. So I'm guessing you just continue with that until its all out? Do you keep filling in the reservoir with fluid as it goes down or do you bleed it all out and then fill with new fluid and bleed for air?

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No, absolutely do NOT let the reservoir empty. Suck or siphon as much of the old fluid out of the MC as possible, then fill with new fluid before bleeding the brakes. This will also allow you to see a distinction between the old and new fluid.
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Old 03-30-2011, 05:47 PM   #6
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I'm getting ready to buy a product made by Motive Products. Allows you to change your fluid by yourself. Like I said I don't have it yet so I don't have first hand experience with it but I have read a lot of comments and reviews.....sounds good to me. Might be worth your time to take a look at it.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:29 PM   #7
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cant you just keep refilling the reservoir and use a hand pump?
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:35 PM   #8
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I have the pressure blessed from motive and love it! One person brake flushing and bleeding.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:36 PM   #9
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Yes. Keep refilling the cylinder while using the hand pump. But as stated above always start with the caliper furthest away from the master cylinder. 1st rear passenger. Then rear driver. Then front passenger. Finally front driver side. Keep pulling fluid until you can clearly see the fresh fluid. You will know.
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Old 03-30-2011, 06:38 PM   #10
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IMO there are only two methods that are good:

1. The old have someone push down on the brake pedal while you open the bleeder screw.

2. Pressure bleeding system.

All the other methods I've seen can let air back into the system, or don't properly flush any contaminates out of the system.

My method is open the bleeder screw, have someone push the brake pedal to the floor, close the bleeder screw, and then the other person release the brake pedal. Repeat until new fluid can be seen coming out and periodically checking the MC and adding fluid. Literally takes less than an hour. You will spend more time trying to open the bleeder screw for the first time then the actual bleeding.
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Old 03-30-2011, 07:41 PM   #11
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I picked up a "one person bleeding kit" at Autozone for under $10. Any parts store or Sears will have them. It's a small container with some vinyl tubing and a connector to fit over the bleeder. Follow the directions and you won't get any air into the system. Just remember to keep filling the reservoir so you don't suck any air into the system. I usually do 4-5 pumps and then refill it. You should also suck out the old fluid from the reservoir using a turkey baster and refill with fresh flhuid before starting the process. I suppose you really don't have to but doing so accelerates the clean fluid getting into the system. This is really an easy job. Go for it!
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Old 03-30-2011, 09:48 PM   #12
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Thanks y'all this seems a lot less stressful now

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Old 03-30-2011, 09:51 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by freeskier
IMO there are only two methods that are good:

1. The old have someone push down on the brake pedal while you open the bleeder screw.

2. Pressure bleeding system.

All the other methods I've seen can let air back into the system, or don't properly flush any contaminates out of the system.

My method is open the bleeder screw, have someone push the brake pedal to the floor, close the bleeder screw, and then the other person release the brake pedal. Repeat until new fluid can be seen coming out and periodically checking the MC and adding fluid. Literally takes less than an hour. You will spend more time trying to open the bleeder screw for the first time then the actual bleeding.
I was reading online that that's not good for newer brake systems so would 98 be considered new?

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Old 03-30-2011, 10:57 PM   #14
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Get some speed bleeders. They replace the standard bleeder screws and have a check valve in them. It makes bleeding brakes a one person job and does not allow air back into the system. They are about $5 a piece at Autozone.
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Old 03-30-2011, 11:17 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by Cartmanpig92 View Post
I was reading online that that's not good for newer brake systems so would 98 be considered new?

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I think you got that backwards. Letting the brake pedal bottom out on an older car may be bad. Newer vehicles, and all TJs use aluminum master cylinders which are a LOT less prone to corrosion. Compared to older vehicles that have (IIRC) cast iron master cylinders.

How it works is when moisture gets into the brake lines it corrodes/oxidizes the bore of the master cylinder over time, then when say in a panic stop or bleeding the brakes the seals pass over these irregularities caused by corrosion and damage the seals. Obviously aluminum doesn't corrode nearly as fast as iron oxidizes.

Also if you do ruin the seals by using that method, your MC should be replaced regardless.

Here's a quote from one of the brake masters, I asked the very same question:

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/br...l#post11203251

Quote:
Originally Posted by mrblaine View Post
Most modern masters are aluminum bores and are not as subject to corrosion as the cast iron bores.

The not bottoming out thing comes from vehicles that have been sitting and the bore corrodes or gets pitted where it's not been used as much. If you move the piston seals into the crappy part of the bore, it will ruin them, but if it does, you shouldn't be using that master anyway.

When that little nugget is espoused as "brake knowledge" it's frequently overlooked that you shove the pedal to the floor in a panic stop or even on a steep downhill section of the trail. If the "not bottoming out" had any merit in a viable brake system, we'd be replacing masters every time some of us went wheeling.

Anyone that tells you not to bottom out the master in a viable brake system is overlooking that the bore is machined to, and honed to one diameter from end to end for our rigs. Why on earth would any one section of the bore not be as good as the rest of it and therefore incompatible with seals?
Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
Get some speed bleeders. They replace the standard bleeder screws and have a check valve in them. It makes bleeding brakes a one person job and does not allow air back into the system. They are about $5 a piece at Autozone.
It can be debated if speed bleeders allow air back into the system.
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Old 03-31-2011, 06:51 AM   #16
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look at the motive power bleeder

well worth the money, makes bleeding the brakes super easy

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