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Old 03-30-2009, 10:17 PM   #1
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Brake Upgrade 2 Piston?

So i have 33"s on my jeep and the braking just stinks.
Stopping from 60 to 0 takes forever.

the jeep has 29,000 miles on it

Things I have done:

-Replaced the front pads with Ceramic
-Turned the Rotors
-Bleed all 4 calipers, flushed the system and replaced with DOT 6 Synthetic brake fluid (resists brake fatigue due to boiling the fluid)

Do they make dual piston calipers for jeeps??
I don't want cross drilled calipers because they fill up with dirt etc.
Do parts interchange off of other jeeps?


The stock brake system was not designed to handle 70+lbs of rotational mass.

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Old 03-30-2009, 11:36 PM   #2
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vamco big brake kit it just for you...

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1997 TJ, 6cyl, 4' Skyjacker, Custom Bumpers Front and Rear , Rocker Rails, Magna Flow Muffler, Light Bar , Custom Intake, Optima Yellow Top ,33x12.5x15 Procomp X-Terrain, Alpine Type S Audio, 10' polk sub, Recaro Seats.

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Old 03-30-2009, 11:36 PM   #3
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1997 TJ, 6cyl, 4' Skyjacker, Custom Bumpers Front and Rear , Rocker Rails, Magna Flow Muffler, Light Bar , Custom Intake, Optima Yellow Top ,33x12.5x15 Procomp X-Terrain, Alpine Type S Audio, 10' polk sub, Recaro Seats.

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Old 03-31-2009, 10:01 AM   #4
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So if thats the case, Do you think I could just give both of these a shot before i drop 750-800 on brakes? Or would this cause problems on the stock brake components?



Hydroboosts: For your extreme braking needs. This is a hydraulic operated booster and master cylinder, that replaces your stock power booster and master cylinder, recommended for your built up vehicles that need extreme braking improvements. This system will greatly decrease pedal pressure, and increase your braking power 200-300%.

Vacuum boosters: This is your affordable brake upgrade that replaces your stock master cylinder and power booster. This system will decrease pedal pressure, increase fluid volume and increase your braking power 50%.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:12 AM   #5
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The new boosters don't increase brake torque- they reduce the amount of pressure needed at the pedal to produce the same amount of torque. Upgrading pads, rotors, and calipers is the only way to really increase brake torque. Also, better tires are ALWAYS the best way to improve braking. Reducing useless weight (spare tire, junk in the trunk, wife, etc.) will help some- Mark W.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:18 AM   #6
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In my opinion, something does not sound right. You should be fine with 33's. The Jeep won't stop like a Porsche but it should stop effectively. I'm running 33's and have not had any of those problems....for the last 2 years with stock pads and rotors (40K miles).

You should not have to run ceramics unless you have it on the track. The stock pads will do just fine unless you are constantly in the pedal too much then you simply increase your service factor. Warped rotors cannot be cured by cutting them but unless you get a brake pulse, they should be fine.

My suggestion: replace those ceramic pad with stock pads and get yourself some new rotors.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:22 AM   #7
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The Vanco kit (not Vamco) is the cat's meow for upgrading the front brakes to where you can lock up with 35-37" tires. It uses a dual piston caliper which spreads the braking force across more of the pad so the pad doesn't warp as it does presently under heavy braking. I have the Vanco kit installed and it truly is about the only way to get excellent braking back for big tires.

Avoid going with a power brake booster. The OE system already puts out more pressure than the OE brake assembly and single-piston caliper can withstand, which is why part of the Vanco kit provides stronger/stiffer calipers.

Until you can afford the Vanco kit and go with bigger than 33" tires, I would install EBC Yellow brake pads which when combined with a quality all-cast brake rotor will provide a very dramatic improvement in braking power. A friend of mine (Blaine Johnson) who was mainly responsible for the Vanco kit's inception and design tested about every brake pad available and the EBC Yellow pads provided a huge improvement over any other pad he tried.

Yep, avoid cross-drilled, slotted, or dimpled rotors... those are just gimmick rotors that don't help the TJ's braking.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:32 AM   #8
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^ Sweet info, Jerry. Thanks!
Also, I forgot to mention, many aftermarket pads need proper bedding-in, which most people fail to do. Also, I know it sounds dumb and simple, but make sure to check that the rotors and pads are clean, and that there's no crap in them. Cheers! Mark W.
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Old 03-31-2009, 11:34 AM   #9
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Also, last time I checked (um, right now), there isn't a DOT 6 brake fluid. DOT 3 is standard for many cars, DOT 4 for higher performance (higher boiling point), DOT 5 is racing stuff, and DOT 5.1, which you should NOT use in any system with ABS, as it will ruin the system, and is used almost only in street bikes. Where in the world did you find DOT 6? Mark W.
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:14 PM   #10
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sorry about that its Dot 4 Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid.

When I changed the pads I made sure to use brake cleaner and whipe down all the residue oil etc off. of both sides of the rotor before I installed the new brake pads

Currently there is no spare tire on the back, the back seat is removed and basically have just the hard top on there right now.

I dont think its a brake fatigue issue because even after some hard stops 60-0 (2 times) the brakes feel just as they do when at normal operating temp.
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:15 PM   #11
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No worries You may want to edit that up top, too.
What brand pads did you use? Mark W.
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:36 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EnigmaMan View Post
When I changed the pads I made sure to use brake cleaner and whipe down all the residue oil etc off. of both sides of the rotor before I installed the new brake pads
I learned something useful from Blaine Johnson when installing my Vanco kit... not to do the final cleaning of the brake rotors with brake cleaner which leaves an oily film on them. I questioned that "oily film" statement from Blaine when he gave me a quick demo to prove his point... he cleaned one of my rotors with brake cleaner, the other with Simple Green. In minutes, the rotor cleaned with Simple Green (followed by rinsing with water) began to show signs of rust, the one cleaned with brake cleaner did not due to that fine layer of oil left behind. What's the problem with that since all the brake installers seem to use it a lot? It just gets into the surface of the new pads and delays how quickly they start working really well. No worries on the rust initially left by cleaning them with the no-residue Simple Green, the pads keep that off by just using the brakes normally.
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Old 03-31-2009, 12:53 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
I learned something useful from Blaine Johnson when installing my Vanco kit... not to do the final cleaning of the brake rotors with brake cleaner which leaves an oily film on them. I questioned that "oily film" statement from Blaine when he gave me a quick demo to prove his point... he cleaned one of my rotors with brake cleaner, the other with Simple Green. In minutes, the rotor cleaned with Simple Green (followed by rinsing with water) began to show signs of rust, the one cleaned with brake cleaner did not due to that fine layer of oil left behind. What's the problem with that since all the brake installers seem to use it a lot? It just gets into the surface of the new pads and delays how quickly they start working really well. No worries on the rust initially left by cleaning them with the no-residue Simple Green, the pads keep that off by just using the brakes normally.
Thats good to know. I've always used brake kleen and never could get all of the residue off. It always seem to have something left behind that would not come off.
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Old 08-06-2012, 09:19 PM   #14
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I use electronic circuit board cleaner

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