Unless you are racing it or habitually do panic stops from high speeds, stock pads, linings, rotors and drums work fine for the rest of us.
When getting pads or linings - opt for the cheapies - they are softer and stop better than the super hard "lifetime" linings. (You can feel the difference with your fingers, or drag a knife across them) Remember - Brakes are a friction device! Hard pads against a hard rotor gives very little friction.
When buying rotors, don't let them tell you they need to be turned or refinished. They don't warp in the box like they'll tell you.
They want to refinish them on a $3000 lathe. What would make them think their little lathe does a better job than the factory's multi million dollar machine?
The parts houses and shops chuck them on cones, then they say "look, they aren't straight." After they cut them, simply dismount them, then immediately put them back on the cones and back on the lathe - HOW DID THEY GET SO CROOKED AGAIN? They aren't repeatable.
You cannot expect cones to mount properly, no matter what the uninformed say.
Mount virgin rotors on your spindles - then spin them by hand to see how much they warped in the box to check the runout. None!
ABS problems are often traced to a bad "turning" on a lathe. New untouched rotors almost always solve the problem. Running crooked they pulsate - drives the ABS nuts!
Calipers - if you know how to rebuild them properly you don't need new ones. Stock type calipers work fine - no need for "trick" stuff that doesn't do anything more than stock ones. They push on the pads - period!
Be sure to PROPERLY bleed them.