I am new to this forum and to jeeps. Purchased my first (2000 sport 80,000miles) 3 months ago. Love it.
To the point:
Started two days ago. Rear pasanger side is squeeking something awful. Locks up before any of the others. The rears are drums. Applied brake cleaner with no affect. Looked in the manual and did the hole reverse 20 feet applied brakes, no affect. I am thinking that replacement of pads? needs to be done. Never dealt with drums before, are they reffered to as pads? Think this is what is needed? Is this normal? Anyone have any suggestions? Links to a "how to" site? I want to do this on my own if possible. On a budget. Again, I have never dealt with drums. Changed a few disc pads on motorcycles before.
There should be an adjment bar for lack of a better name, you can turn this and move the Shoe's, in and out.. try that first.. it should be at the bottom, and look sort of wheel with points on the ends. Also check your e-brake cables to see if they are sticking. And if then you can always change pads, or it could be a bad cylinder too... I hate drum brakes as there are so many things it can be... keep us posted.. and hopefullys some one with more idea will chim in...
CJ.XJ.CJ. TJ. TJ.ZJ. TJ.TJ. ZJ.ZJ.YJ. XJ
I'll 2nd the hand brake cables. Mine are a bit chewed up and cause all kinds of funky behavior. The pad adjustment could be it as well; however due to how the hydraulics are plumbed, the pads should be applying even pressure. There can be a small difference in what time they 'latch' on of course, however I would think when you get to putting enough pressure on there where you're slowing down the vehicle that it would be fairly insignificant.
Are there any leaks on the rear passenger side axle flange/brake area that you can see?
OK, so I checked out the emergency brake. I loosened it just slightly. That may have been some of the problem. The squeek is gone for now, but that wheel still locks up first although not as quickly. I am not sure where the shoe adjustment lever is. At the top of the brake is what I assume to be the brake line, above that is what appears to be the bleeder. At the bottom is what looks like the emergency brake line. Where that line enters the brake looks like where I might make an adjustment. Is that rite? If so should I turn it counterclockwise to loosen the shoe?
I also noticed that on that brake one of the rubber stoppers is missing. I will replace it, but could that be part of the problem. Could water make the brake act funny? I know that it doesn't with disc brakes, but again I don't know squat about drums.
Thanks for the input.
I don't see any liquid leaking out of the axle/flange area. When I sprayed the brake cleaner into the drum I sprayed into one of the rubber stopper holes. The cleaner leaked out of the base of the drums on both sides. Is that OK? I didn't think twice about it seeing that it happened on both sides. It is going to be getting dark here soon, so I won't open the drum up until tommorrow. I assume I can do this by simply removing the wheel and opening the drum via some sort of drum cover bolting system. Again, any suggestions will help.
The righth amount of water can make drums lock up very easily. Water gets caught between the shoe and the drum, and will eventually boil when the brakes get hot enough. The extra pressure this adds will make your brakes MUCH stronger then you would otherwise expect.
The adjustment wheel is located behind a recatungular/oval shaped rubber plug on the bottom of the drum backing plate. You don't even have to remove the tires to adjust it. I forget which way brings the pad in, and which brings the pad out; but just play with it and see where it gets you
I found the adjuster. I also found that the back rubber stopper, when removed, shows the shoe. When the emergency break is off, the drivers side shoe is away from the drum, while the passanger side (problem side) is still rite next to the drum. I tried loosening the emergency break, but the problem shoe does not move. I tried adjusting via the shoe adjuster, but the shoe does not seem to be moving. I will continue trying to adjust.
How far from the drum should the shoe be when the brakes are not applied?
Should I open the drum up?
Taking Off The Drum Should Cause No Problems. Plus You Can See How Worn Out The Shoes Are. My Tj. Had A Similar Problem And It Was Do To The Shoe Beeing Worn Out On One Side. Unlike Disc Brakes They Can Rust Up Sometimes To The Point Where The Litterally Fall Apart While Changing Them. I Would Suggest Changing Them If They Look Real Bad And Can't Adjust Them. Should Be About $15.00-20.00 For A Pair At Autozone, But You Do Need A Special Tool. I Think Its Like 5 Bucks More.
From your questions and what you're doing without having a clue to knowing what you're doing, you should have a brake tech check out those rear brakes instead. I'm all about doing things on our own and offering help whenever possible but drum brakes are not something to just start turning adjusters and adjusting parking brake cable lengths when something isn't working right. Drum brakes are just too easily mis-adjusted so they don't work at all or lock up even more quickly or erratically. And if the brake shoes (disk brakes use pads) need replacing, that's not an easy job for a beginner to do right.
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I appreciate all the input. I took it in today and found out that a spring had broken and damaged both the drum and the shoe. Had both shoes replaced and of course the mechanism as well. I agree, I don't want to go messing with the bits that stop the vehicle, at least not without having someone on hand who knows what they are doing.