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Old 07-07-2007, 10:55 PM   #1
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brakes pulling

I searched but didn't find anything or didn't use the right terms. What would cause my jeep to pull to the left when I brake a little hard?

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Old 07-07-2007, 11:12 PM   #2
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you could have a caliper thats starting to stick hun.. look and see if you have any abnormal wear on your rotors. if its not the calipers unfortuntly you need to start thinking proportioning valves or something along those lines. this could be a semi serious issue but you should start with a real close look at your rotors they are a tell tale to everything

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Old 07-07-2007, 11:20 PM   #3
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Well fantastic. I don't know what any of that is, but I guess I'm looking at it tomorrow. Thanks, PenguinMan......... they would be behind my front tires right
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Old 07-08-2007, 12:18 AM   #4
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hope you figure it out tiny, i am soaking up all the posts on brake issues people have been having lately, and use those lessons when i try to change my own brakes next week.
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:40 AM   #5
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Jack up the front and spin the tires if the left side is harder to turn than the right it maybe like penguin said a stuck caliper.
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Old 07-08-2007, 08:58 AM   #6
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if you dont know what they are calipers go over the rotor, and the rotors are the metal disc behind the wheel.
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:48 AM   #7
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if you dont know what they are calipers go over the rotor, and the rotors are the metal disc behind the wheel.

Round right?
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Old 07-08-2007, 10:50 AM   #8
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Here are some pics of the parts.

rotor

caliper

master cylinder

brake booster.

proportioning valve.

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Old 07-08-2007, 10:54 AM   #9
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btw the proportioning valve puts more braking power to the front brakes and less to the back.
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Old 07-08-2007, 01:27 PM   #10
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I don't understand. Everything "looks" fine. The lines aren't crimped or stretched. The pads look even. The rotors are..... uh..... smooth .... aside from being dirty (other than the shiny rotors), everything looks fine.

My brake fluid is low and I was going to just add some, but I read that low fluid means the brakes need to be done bla bla bla, but I've only got 17000 miles on the beastie and I can't see that they're already in need of that.
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Old 07-09-2007, 12:12 AM   #11
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My brake fluid is low and I was going to just add some, but I read that low fluid means the brakes need to be done bla bla bla, but I've only got 17000 miles on the beastie and I can't see that they're already in need of that.
It all depends on driving habits, like if you tend to ride the breaks or hit them hard and on tire size

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Old 08-16-2007, 06:10 PM   #12
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Originally Posted by 4.0l sahara View Post
Here are some pics of the parts.

rotor

caliper

master cylinder

brake booster.

proportioning valve.

My brakes have become "stiff" during the past couple weeks. Basically, the pedal used to push down slowly to about 1/3rd of the way to the floor and the harder I pushed, the slower I'd go...LOL, like they are supposed to work!

Anyway, now when I push the pedal down it seems to push down maybe 1/8th of the way to the floor and it's not as easy to push. The Jeep stops decent, but I can tell the pedal is "stiff." When I'm only going about 10-15mph, if I push too hard, the pedal goes about 1/8th of the way to the floor and the Jeep will stop abruptly. It's very difficult to stop without getting whipash.

Could the problem be the master cylinder or brake booster failing?
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:29 PM   #13
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Could be a stuck caliper - could also be a worn out right control arm, trackbar, or tie rod end at the steering box (assuming you don't have other weird steering quirks) or the steering box itself
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:35 PM   #14
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Could be a stuck caliper - could also be a worn out right control arm, trackbar, or tie rod end at the steering box (assuming you don't have other weird steering quirks) or the steering box itself
As far as steering, the only issue I've had is with a 52-54mph steering wheel shake.

WHAT?!? "Stiff" brakes could be a control arm, trackbar, tie rod end, or steering box? For some reason I don't see how that could be related to "stiff" brakes. How could they be related?

I have had the "squeak from the rear brakes AFTER letting go of the brake pedal at a stop." Maybe the rear brake cylinder was squeaking and is now broken?
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:36 PM   #15
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No I was refering to the original problem - pulling with braking.

With stiff brakes I'd look into the master cylinder or proportioning valve. I'd also make sure your brakes are properly bled - though usually air/dirt in the lines makes for a soft pedal. It might also be the brake booster.

Squeeking sounds from drum brakes is pretty normal - lots of moving parts in there; as usual it's worth a check though - take off the drum and look for broken parts and leaking fluid.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:38 PM   #16
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Lap Check your vacuum line to the booster 1st ensure it is connected.
if you unplug the vacuum line from the booster do the brakes feel the same?
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:40 PM   #17
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No I was refering to the original problem - pulling with braking.

With stiff brakes I'd look into the master cylinder or proportioning valve. I'd also make sure your brakes are properly bled - though usually air/dirt in the lines makes for a soft pedal. It might also be the brake booster.
Sorry about the miscommunication. What about the squeak from the rear...everything is kind of making sense because when I park and pull the e-brake up there is some play in the e-brake handle. I'll pull the handle up a couple of inches before it "grabs."
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:41 PM   #18
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I edited my post

As far as your e-brake; this can mean that you either have a jeep with a hand brake, or that you need to manual adjust the 'automatic' brake adjuster in your rear drums. It's a star toothed disc in the drum assembly that adjusts how far off the drum the shoes ride without brakes applied.

You can access it by removing the only rectangular inspection plug on the backing plate of each drum, and adjusting it with a flathead screw driver. you want it set up so that when you jack up one tire, it provides just a hair of drag when spun.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:41 PM   #19
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Lap Check your vacuum line to the booster 1st ensure it is connected.
if you unplug the vacuum line from the booster do the brakes feel the same?
Where is it located?
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:44 PM   #20
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The booster is located directly behind the master cylinder, mounted to the firewall
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:48 PM   #21
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Yep - it's the big black pancake-tank looking thing; it'll have one good size hose coming off of it, this is the hose you'll want to check as it carries engine vacuum from the intake manifold to the booster. Before entering the booster it passes through a plastic 'nub'. This is a vacuum check valve, and is supposed to keep a supply of vacuum in the booster when the throttle is opened. It's worth checking out as well.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:20 PM   #22
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I searched but didn't find anything or didn't use the right terms. What would cause my jeep to pull to the left when I brake a little hard?

Your "Left Side Hard Brake Proprotioning Resevoir" is low on fluid. Fill it up with DOT 37.43 fluid, I think it takes 61 ounces. Ensure the fluid is EEAP 9001 ISO standard.

Sorry Tiny, stuck at work and bored out of my mind. Leaving in a few days, we'll wheel again when I get back.
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Old 08-16-2007, 07:40 PM   #23
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You guys are on the right track...but, I would put the jeep on jackstands, pull all the wheels, inspect for any fluids on the brake parts, inspect the front pads for wear, both left & rt side pads should be all worn EVENLY, if they are not, inside pad wear will most likely be the caliper piston, replace the caliper(s). Outside pad wear is again most likely the caliper slides (pins), Remove them, inspect them, make sure they are not pitted or rusted, Replace if neccessary. Dont forget to use brake lube on the slides. Next, check the brake hoses, make sure there are no cracks or swelling, open the caliper bleeder & make sure an even flow of brake fluid comes out each side, if not replace both front lines. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER ON BRAKES IS IT IS IMPERATIVE TO REPLACE HYDRALIC PARTS IN PAIRS. Never replace just one caliper or just one brake hose. For the rears, (make sure we have no axle seal leakage) I dought the rear brakes will cause a pull in the steering but make sure the rear wheel cyl are dry, the brake shoes are not cracked and are also wearing evenly, do the same bleeding inspection, open a wheel cyl & make sure brake fluid comes out. If rear shoes are needed I would suggest installing a new hardware kit, they are cheap. Now would be a good time to replace/flush the brake fluid also. Bleeding the rt rear first (furthest away) next the lt rear, rt ft & then lt ft. As mentioned before, inspect the front end components & the tire pressures. All this is covered in repair manuals, Brake components are inexpensive, take your time, do only one at a time, you can go check the other side for reference. Good luck ! Steve
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Old 08-16-2007, 09:20 PM   #24
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hey tiny terror i just had the same prob. with the 97 i just bought saturday mine pulled to the right so i adjusted the left rear brake and the prob. went away good luck let me know if it works
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Old 08-20-2007, 08:30 PM   #25
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Lap Check your vacuum line to the booster 1st ensure it is connected.
if you unplug the vacuum line from the booster do the brakes feel the same?
Ok, I finally had a chance to check the vacuum line coming from the booster. The hose looks like it's in good shape, but i don't know. If I pull the hose, is it safe to drive that way? You want to know if it feels the same...is that how I could test it?
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Old 08-22-2007, 01:37 AM   #26
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Ok, I finally had a chance to check the vacuum line coming from the booster. The hose looks like it's in good shape, but i don't know. If I pull the hose, is it safe to drive that way? You want to know if it feels the same...is that how I could test it?
Can I try this safely?
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Old 08-22-2007, 03:36 AM   #27
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Wink NO dont take off booster hose and drive

Quote:
Originally Posted by lap49X View Post
Ok, I finally had a chance to check the vacuum line coming from the booster. The hose looks like it's in good shape, but i don't know. If I pull the hose, is it safe to drive that way? You want to know if it feels the same...is that how I could test it?

You don't wanna drive it without you booster vacuum hose on. first it's gonna idle your motor way up,second it will make your brake peddle very hard to push. if your brake peddle pushes easy when you apply the brakes boosters working. i 'd do as TBONE said jack up the rear end and adjust your back breaks should stop the pulling. if that don't work id replace the front break pads one side might have overheated and crystalized. as for your booster vacuum hose i found a peice of old air compresser hose works great fits tighter on the fittings. i will take picture of mine tomm.
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Old 08-22-2007, 06:24 AM   #28
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Tiny,

You can do a couple of simple things to eliminate possibilities here. Put the front up on jackstands and remove the tires.

1) Inspect each caliper for excessive dirt or debris. It's very possible your right caliper may be unable to close properly due to debris (small dirt and rocks) lodged between the pads and rotor. Remove the pads, inspect for excessive wear (change if necessary) and reinstall.

2). Bleed the brakes. While you are at it, it would not hurt to bleed out the brakes and remove any air bubbles and replenish some fresh fluid. If I recall you are in south Cal. so the excessive heat and high service factor of off-roading every weekend increases the need to replace the brake fluid more frequently.

3). Re-inspect. Put everything back together and re-evaluate your situation. If you still have a significant pull the the left, I would rebuild or replace BOTH calipers.

Good luck and let us know how you do.
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Old 08-22-2007, 09:59 AM   #29
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May be the pads

For the problem of pulling when braking:


Try swapping the pads themselves side-to-side (I know there are left and right...just a test)

I was having the same problem and did about everything I could think of...pads and rotors looked good so I:

1. rebuilt the rear brakes
2. lubed the sliders and made sure the pads/rotors weren't glazed
3. replaced both front calipers

None of this did a thing so I started swapping parts from one side to the other and found when I switched the pads the problem went with them. There was no wear issues and they looked to be the same pads so go figure????

I haven't bought new pads yet but hopefully it will take care of it

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