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Old 02-17-2011, 04:22 AM   #1
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Broke rear upper shock bolt

Ok, I went to put on new shocks last night. Started in the back. Broke the upper shock bolt! What do I do now? How do I get it out?

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Old 02-17-2011, 05:42 AM   #2
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This is pretty common, the best way is to lift the rear of the body, unless you have a BL already, by unbolting the rear body mounts or however you can to get in there from above. Then take a chisel or something of the like and break off the welded on nut with the bolt stuck inside. Then replace with your own new nut, washers and bolt. I have tried using an easy out, but these things get rusted stuck pretty hard and the above method prevents you from dealing with this again.

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Old 02-17-2011, 06:10 AM   #3
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Ok. I was thought of trying to drill it out but it is in a tight spot. I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks
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Old 02-17-2011, 06:42 AM   #4
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If it's the one on the inside, not the frame side I was able to get a Harbor Freight right angle drill in there to drill it out and re-tapped it to 3/8"-16 that was not too bad. On the frame side you can heat it with mapp gas and back it out from the top with vise grips. Or try the easy outs after heating the bolts. You just have to be careful with the gas tank so close! Good luck, this was the worst part of installing my lift.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:14 AM   #5
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Does any one know what size the upper bolts are for the rear shocks?
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:32 AM   #6
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8x1.25x30....found it.
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Old 02-18-2011, 06:49 AM   #7
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Thanks for posting that. Ill be adding my lift soon and I'm insanely paranoid this will happen to me
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Old 02-18-2011, 07:02 AM   #8
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I'm replacing all of them. I have a feeling the others will break
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Old 02-18-2011, 04:00 PM   #9
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Well, broke 3 of 4 bolts. Time to get the drill out
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Old 02-18-2011, 04:22 PM   #10
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Well, broke 3 of 4 bolts. Time to get the drill out
From inside the wheel well you can see the nut and the rest of the screw sticking thru it. The ones closer to the wheel I was able to grab them with vise grips and back out, maybe you can get lucky.

Or drill it out all the way and if you go too big you can always re-tap it to 3/8"-16. Good luck, I know how bad that sucks!
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Old 02-19-2011, 06:14 AM   #11
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Drilled 3 pilot holes last night...only 1 went crooked. I'll drill them out today after ther kids hockey game. Wish me luck! Hopefully I will be driving it tonight!!
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Old 02-19-2011, 02:46 PM   #12
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One shock down 1 to go...tomorrow...time for hockey again!
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Old 02-20-2011, 11:45 AM   #13
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Finally done! Drilled, retapped, installed. Rides 10x's better!
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Old 03-27-2011, 06:10 PM   #14
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Here's another way to remove the broken outside bolt. Started replacing the shocks on my son's '02. We're in New England so you know there's rust. Soaked the rear bolts with PB blaster and then tried to shock them using the 14MM socket, 10" extension and 3lb hand sledge. Whacked the bolt head very hard but, of course, the outside bolt immediately snapped.

Tried drilling but the break was convex and I couldn't get the drill to start. Took off the wheel liner and could see the top of the bolt right behind the frame. Using just my 3/8 10" extension, it fit nicely onto the remaining part of the bolt, gave it a few more whacks then tried vise grips....no movement. Getting frustrated so gave the bolt a few more very hard whacks and when I went to put on the vise grips the bolt was at an angle! Put a screw driver on it and straightened it out with a couple of whacks then used the extension to whack the bottom of the bolt some more and now it's at a very strong angle. A couple of hits with the screwdriver to bend it back and it snapped right off! Mine only had one small spot weld on it so it was easy to snap. Fortunately the inside bolt came out without any issues. Got some grade 8 bolts and nuts at Lowes and the shock is now installed.

No BL, no angle grinder, no air hammer, no drill and no tap! We'll see how the passenger side goes next weekend.
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Old 03-28-2011, 12:03 AM   #15
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Haven't looked at my 2001 shocks recently to remember all the clearances but was wondering if there was any way to get an impact wrench on the bolts? Sometimes the jarring will shake something loose that steady pressure won't. Or would it just bust the bolts quicker?
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Old 03-28-2011, 08:31 AM   #16
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With an extension you can get to the bolts with an impact drill. Unfreezing them was my objective with the hand sledge. Realistically, with the amount of rust that was on the outer bolt that snapped, I doubt it will work. Do try to get some PB blaster on the top of the nut first by removing the plastic liner and it might help you out.
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Old 10-24-2014, 08:01 PM   #17
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I know the thread is old but I referenced everyone i could find on the subject when dealing with mine today.

Unlike many with advice i have limited access to helpful tools. i have common tools and whatever I've collected through special projects over the years. I am not a mechanic but can do basic maintenance and can follow YouTube instructions.
my 06 Tj had the inner rear right shock bolt sheer off. Wasn't overly rusted but the bolt Wasn't coming out.

what didn't work: bolt extractor, drilling, pounding the nut in an attempt to break the weld (joker was on there good unlike everyone else judging by the reply's)

What did work: removed rear 2 brackets for the exhaust. used a bungee to pull it closer to the ground t give me more work space. removed rear 8 body bolt (2 in bumper, 2 near the shock mount, 4 center) Used a pipe to lift the body from the frame and jammed a 2x4 in the gap (working alone here) to see the top broken bolt and factory nut between frame and tub. Used a flat screw driver i could bare living without and pounded the base of the nut to were it started to lift so i could see the weld. (Here is were the Arkansas in me came out) used a drill bit cutting wheel. stuck the bit down through the hole it the frame between the two nuts. attached to drill from underneath was able to cut the weld (clearing the hole and attach new hardware). It's on there good not ghetto. it can be done by anyone willing to do the work. cost 4 bucks. Now that I know how to do it could probable get it done in 1-2 hours. I almost gave up and cut the tub, glad i too a break and found a different way.
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Old 12-23-2014, 09:00 PM   #18
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E
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Old 12-23-2014, 09:01 PM   #19
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This will be my next project...any suggestions on replacement?
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Old 12-23-2014, 09:02 PM   #20
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Any suggestions on shock replacements? Brand/ size etc?
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Old 12-23-2014, 09:58 PM   #21
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Any suggestions on shock replacements? Brand/ size etc?
Rancho rs7000mt or 9000 adjustable are good, as is the bilstein 5100 tuned for the tj.
Length is determined by lift and compressed/expanded length available on your specific jeep
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Old 01-19-2015, 11:38 PM   #22
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To drag an old thread from the grave. Just installed a rugged ridge BB lift. Both bolts in rear near the frame broke. Both at an angle. Was not going to fair my luck with the body mount bolts (I really thought this thing was rust free) after 3 hrs of vice grips a torch. Sledge hammer... 4 broken drill bits. I said fk it. I drilled new holes on the side of the existing holes. Not ideal. I hate that it came down to that... used bolts with nuts.. Didn't line up the best.. but it's done. Until I lift up the body and do it right... wow what a pain.. and of course the top bolts on the front shocks were seized. Spinning the shock.. tried a big pipe wrench. Nope.. had to drill a hole all the way through the shock and hammer a steel rod through both sides. Then hit it with an impact from the top... Both bolts snapped.. argghh. Then the front sway bar was seized on. Torch and sledge got that finally. Gave up tonight. Still have the left front 2 lower shock bolts.. hope they fair like the right lowers.. Acually came out
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Old 01-20-2015, 06:49 AM   #23
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I used my small dremel tool and put a cutting wheel on it. It took 1 wheel per bolt, I tried for 20 mins to drill it out with no luck. Took about 5 mins a bolt with my dremel and cutting wheel. Then just went to the hardware store and bought 4 grade 8 nuts and bolts. Then soaked every thing with Anti-seize in case I ever need to remove them.
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Old 01-20-2015, 07:32 AM   #24
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All of mine came out no problem but when I put them back in I used a good amount of antiseize to make sure they'll always come out.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:11 AM   #25
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Just went through this a few months ago. I, too, used a dremel. Just sanded that fake nutsert down, left half of it to hold the nut for the new grade 8 bolt. Due to it was raining off and on that week and the fact that I park in a lot, took me 4 days
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:30 AM   #26
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Just went through this a few months ago. I, too, used a dremel. Just sanded that fake nutsert down, left half of it to hold the nut for the new grade 8 bolt. Due to it was raining off and on that week and the fact that I park in a lot, took me 4 days
That sucks, did you pack a wet towel around the gas tank to keep the sparks from hitting it? I was so nervous, I had a huge soaked beach towel pushed against it, Fire extinguisher and the hose turned on while I did it. Made my wife stay out side while I did it just in case I blew myself up.
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Old 01-20-2015, 08:31 AM   #27
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Broken Shock Bolt!

Had the same problem with my 01 a few months back. I cut right to the chase and cut a flap on the floor on both sides above the shocks. Ground off the weld nuts punched out the broken bolts and replaced with SS bolts.

I rolled back the 3 sided flap and tacked it. Put a bead of sealer on the seams, and rolled back the carpet. I spent about 2 hours for the whole job.
I'm sure other people have done this too!

Good Luck.....
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:56 PM   #28
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I no this is an old thread but i figured id ask, would it make more sense to drop the bolts into the hole and then thread the nut on from under the car, this way the bolt holds itself in place while you thread a nut on instead of trying to blindly tighten the nut on the inside of the frame, the reason i ask Is because this just happened to me, one is broken, two bolts are just spinning and the 4th actually came out
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Old 01-24-2015, 06:58 PM   #29
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I no this is an old thread but i figured id ask, would it make more sense to drop the bolts into the hole and then thread the nut on from under the car, this way the bolt holds itself in place while you thread a nut on instead of trying to blindly tighten the nut on the inside of the frame, the reason i ask Is because this just happened to me, one is broken, two bolts are just spinning and the 4th actually came out
That's what I did and what was recommended to me. The pain is getting the broken bolt out so you can drop a grade 8 bolt in there.
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Old 01-24-2015, 08:26 PM   #30
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I used my small dremel tool and put a cutting wheel on it. It took 1 wheel per bolt, I tried for 20 mins to drill it out with no luck. Took about 5 mins a bolt with my dremel and cutting wheel. Then just went to the hardware store and bought 4 grade 8 nuts and bolts. Then soaked every thing with Anti-seize in case I ever need to remove them.
This is the way I did it...
Then dropped the bolt in from the top and used loctite just to be sure

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