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Old 09-11-2013, 12:17 PM   #1
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Build D30 or Buy D44?

Debating on building my D30 with Super 30, 4.88s and air locker or just trying to find a D44. Already have a 8.8 in the rear and definitely going with 4.88s but wondering if the D30 is even worth it.

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Old 09-11-2013, 12:21 PM   #2
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Debating on building my D30 with Super 30, 4.88s and air locker or just trying to find a D44. Already have a 8.8 in the rear and definitely going with 4.88s but wondering if the D30 is even worth it.
If it was a HP D30 Id say yes.

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Old 09-11-2013, 12:23 PM   #3
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What size tires are you running?
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:29 PM   #4
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I hear folks bash the D30 all over the place, but they are not bad at all if you run 33s or smaller. A Super 30 would not be a bad idea if you are not worried about bending the tubes.

If you are running 33s and intend to go up in size or if do a lot of stuff in the rocks I would spend the cash on a D44 that you can upgrade later to a Super 44. I cannot imagine needing an 8.8 or a D60 where I live. I have no idea about how you wheel, however.

I am no expert, but based on my limited personal experience and all my reading here it seems that beefing up your D30 would be a decent solution. I run 33s and like to bang my rig around a bit. I have a D44 on the back and will someday run a Super 44 kit on it. I will someday also upgrade my front to a regular D44. But for what I do, a Super 30 would probably be fine, too.

Your mileage may vary, of course...
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:44 PM   #5
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I hear folks bash the D30 all over the place, but they are not bad at all if you run 33s or smaller. A Super 30 would not be a bad idea if you are not worried about bending the tubes.

If you are running 33s and intend to go up in size or if do a lot of stuff in the rocks I would spend the cash on a D44 that you can upgrade later to a Super 44. I cannot imagine needing an 8.8 or a D60 where I live. I have no idea about how you wheel, however.

I am no expert, but based on my limited personal experience and all my reading here it seems that beefing up your D30 would be a decent solution. I run 33s and like to bang my rig around a bit. I have a D44 on the back and will someday run a Super 44 kit on it. I will someday also upgrade my front to a regular D44. But for what I do, a Super 30 would probably be fine, too.

Your mileage may vary, of course...
Unless your going to 37's or larger a D44 in the front isn't needed. In fact quite a few people run an HP D30 in the front on 37's with no issues. IMO though the limit is 35's on an HP D30 if you want to keep the front end rugged. HP D30's can be sleeved for less than 100 bucks, and put gussets on the inner C's. Makes for a really stout axle with MAX clearance that you can beat on pretty hard with no worries.
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Old 09-11-2013, 12:48 PM   #6
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Currently running 35 MTRs. Not planning on increasing for now but you never know.
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:39 PM   #7
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D30 VS a 44, there is no question, the 44 solid and durable out of the box.

I have 3 vehicles with 44's and owned half a dozen others. Good sound no excuse rear end. If you wanted more, go with a Dana 60!
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Old 09-11-2013, 03:50 PM   #8
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What everyone here is forgetting...the only difference between the rubi44 and D30 is the differential (r&p) and the inner shafts.

Everything from the differential out is identical on a rubi44 and a d30 (high or low).

The only real advantage of a rubi44 is deeper gearing depending on your transmission/motor.

There are no other options for a bolt in front 44...and if you decide to run a ford HP44 or something...your bolt pattern and width is not going to match that of the 8.8.
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Old 09-11-2013, 04:04 PM   #9
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I have a stock D30 up front with the same tires. But I also have a set of chromo axles and a HP30 in the garage that needs to be built. I would say stick with the D30 for the time being, grab a set of axles for it, and go hunt down a HP30.

Trying to find a Rubi44 is going to be much harder and more money vs. the HP30.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:28 PM   #10
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What everyone here is forgetting...the only difference between the rubi44 and D30 is the differential (r&p) and the inner shafts.

Everything from the differential out is identical on a rubi44 and a d30 (high or low).

The only real advantage of a rubi44 is deeper gearing depending on your transmission/motor.

There are no other options for a bolt in front 44...and if you decide to run a ford HP44 or something...your bolt pattern and width is not going to match that of the 8.8.
Actually Dynatrac makes a bolt in HP Dana44 for the Tj. Awesome axle. Have one in the garage going into an 06' Sport Tj.
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Old 09-11-2013, 05:31 PM   #11
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Actually Dynatrac makes a bolt in HP Dana44 for the Tj. Awesome axle. Have one in the garage going into an 06' Sport Tj.
I am talking about a factory axle swap.

But yes, Dynatrac, Currie, etc, etc can make or have swaps available if you've got the coin.
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:01 PM   #12
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Do any TJs come with HP30s or are they all D30s? And how can you tell the difference
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:05 PM   #13
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Do any TJs come with HP30s or are they all D30s? And how can you tell the difference
An HP30 is a dana 30 with a high pinion. All TJ's came with lp (low pinion) dana 30's. I believe XJ's came with hp dana 30's, not sure on the years right now though. Both made by dana, but the hpd30's are pretty obvious once you see one. The yoke on a hp30 is literally alot higher than where it sits on a lp30. Lets see if this link works. Google Image Result for
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Old 09-11-2013, 09:49 PM   #14
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If you're staying with 35" tires and not planning on going to 37" or larger tires, the factory D30 can very easily be built to where it won't have any problems. At the most a HP30 gets the driveshaft up higher & has a slightly stronger R&P setup due to running on the stronger side of the ring gear, but a HP30 isn't needed by most of us... it is just nice to have.

A Super 30 kit which includes hardened aftermarket 30 spline alloy shafts is really overkill for 35" tires & a locker, a hardened 27 spline alloy shaft kit is all you need for that size tire to have a very reliable front axle. With that combination, you can run a locker & 35" tires all day long on the toughest trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ after breaking its front OE shaft in Johnson Valley & no more breakages after installing the alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made).

I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a Rubicon front D44. As said above, the Rubicon's D44 is mostly a Dana 30 with the only difference being its center housing, R&P, & inner axle shaft as already mentioned above. Everything else including the inner-C & knuckle, u-joint, brakes, outer stub shaft, etc. is the same stuff that the Dana 30 has which makes the axle only as strong as them.

In summary, I'd go HP30 before I'd buy a Rubicon front Dana 44... or just beef up what you have with hardened alloy 27 spline inner/outer shafts like from G2 and you'll be good to go.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:50 PM   #15
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If you're staying with 35" tires and not planning on going to 37" or larger tires, the factory D30 can very easily be built to where it won't have any problems. At the most a HP30 gets the driveshaft up higher & has a slightly stronger R&P setup due to running on the stronger side of the ring gear, but a HP30 isn't needed by most of us... it is just nice to have.

A Super 30 kit which includes hardened aftermarket 30 spline alloy shafts is really overkill for 35" tires & a locker, a hardened 27 spline alloy shaft kit is all you need for that size tire to have a very reliable front axle. With that combination, you can run a locker & 35" tires all day long on the toughest trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ after breaking its front OE shaft in Johnson Valley & no more breakages after installing the alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made).

I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a Rubicon front D44. As said above, the Rubicon's D44 is mostly a Dana 30 with the only difference being its center housing, R&P, & inner axle shaft as already mentioned above. Everything else including the inner-C & knuckle, u-joint, brakes, outer stub shaft, etc. is the same stuff that the Dana 30 has which makes the axle only as strong as them.

In summary, I'd go HP30 before I'd buy a Rubicon front Dana 44... or just beef up what you have with hardened alloy 27 spline inner/outer shafts like from G2 and you'll be good to go.
This advice has answered my question, thanx Jerry
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:53 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
If you're staying with 35" tires and not planning on going to 37" or larger tires, the factory D30 can very easily be built to where it won't have any problems. At the most a HP30 gets the driveshaft up higher & has a slightly stronger R&P setup due to running on the stronger side of the ring gear, but a HP30 isn't needed by most of us... it is just nice to have.

A Super 30 kit which includes hardened aftermarket 30 spline alloy shafts is really overkill for 35" tires & a locker, a hardened 27 spline alloy shaft kit is all you need for that size tire to have a very reliable front axle. With that combination, you can run a locker & 35" tires all day long on the toughest trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ after breaking its front OE shaft in Johnson Valley & no more breakages after installing the alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made).

I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a Rubicon front D44. As said above, the Rubicon's D44 is mostly a Dana 30 with the only difference being its center housing, R&P, & inner axle shaft as already mentioned above. Everything else including the inner-C & knuckle, u-joint, brakes, outer stub shaft, etc. is the same stuff that the Dana 30 has which makes the axle only as strong as them.

In summary, I'd go HP30 before I'd buy a Rubicon front Dana 44... or just beef up what you have with hardened alloy 27 spline inner/outer shafts like from G2 and you'll be good to go.
Sorry to hijack. Will the same set up be ok in the D35, chromoly axles etc. if Im sticking with 33's?
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:14 PM   #17
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Good quality aftermarket hardened chromolly 27 spline axle shafts work well for 33" tires, I'd check sources like G2.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:15 PM   #18
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Good quality aftermarket hardened chromolly 27 spline axle shafts work well for 33" tires, I'd check sources like G2.
Ok thanx Jerry
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:17 PM   #19
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I just checked G2, I don't see a 27 spline shaft from them like you could get from now defunct Superior Axle. Check Alloy USA if a 30 spline kit is too much $$$.
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Old 09-11-2013, 11:22 PM   #20
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I just checked G2, I don't see a 27 spline shaft from them like you could get from now defunct Superior Axle. Check Alloy USA if a 30 spline kit is too much $$$.
Ok
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Old 09-12-2013, 09:05 AM   #21
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Sorry to hijack. Will the same set up be ok in the D35, chromoly axles etc. if Im sticking with 33's?
D35 in the rear is not a great axle to build up. Its a C clip axle. If your going to build up the rear, best off hunting down a rear D44, even on 33's.
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Old 09-13-2013, 06:25 AM   #22
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Thanks for all the great input. Guess I'll stick with my D30 unless I just come across a great deal.
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Old 10-09-2013, 06:42 PM   #23
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If you're staying with 35" tires and not planning on going to 37" or larger tires, the factory D30 can very easily be built to where it won't have any problems. At the most a HP30 gets the driveshaft up higher & has a slightly stronger R&P setup due to running on the stronger side of the ring gear, but a HP30 isn't needed by most of us... it is just nice to have. A Super 30 kit which includes hardened aftermarket 30 spline alloy shafts is really overkill for 35" tires & a locker, a hardened 27 spline alloy shaft kit is all you need for that size tire to have a very reliable front axle. With that combination, you can run a locker & 35" tires all day long on the toughest trails. That's what I ran in my previous TJ after breaking its front OE shaft in Johnson Valley & no more breakages after installing the alloy 27 spline shafts from Warn (no longer made). I wouldn't waste my $$$ on a Rubicon front D44. As said above, the Rubicon's D44 is mostly a Dana 30 with the only difference being its center housing, R&P, & inner axle shaft as already mentioned above. Everything else including the inner-C & knuckle, u-joint, brakes, outer stub shaft, etc. is the same stuff that the Dana 30 has which makes the axle only as strong as them. In summary, I'd go HP30 before I'd buy a Rubicon front Dana 44... or just beef up what you have with hardened alloy 27 spline inner/outer shafts like from G2 and you'll be good to go.

So if I beefed up my dana 30 in my tj it would handle 37's fine with no locker??
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:41 PM   #24
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So if I beefed up my dana 30 in my tj it would handle 37's fine with no locker??
Nice try but no. Upon running 37" tires, even your rear D44 will be on borrowed time, namely the ring gear. I'd be too afraid of bending the front 30 housing or the inner c's to even try 37" tires period. Also, 37s will make quick work of D30 u-joints, ball joints, etc.
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Old 10-09-2013, 07:56 PM   #25
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Nice try but no. Upon running 37" tires, even your rear D44 will be on borrowed time, namely the ring gear. I'd be too afraid of bending the front 30 housing or the inner c's to even try 37" tires period. Also, 37s will make quick work of D30 u-joints, ball joints, etc.
Though I personally won't run 37's on a D 30 there are plenty of people who do it with 0 issues(Imped here runs 37's on his D30). They make cheap sleeve and gusset kits for the D30 that will allow you to run 37's with good results, especially if you don't wheel with a lead foot. My HP D30 can handle 37's I know, I run the sleeve and gusset kit, and run RCV axles.........no more weak u joints. I though will only run 35's part time, but can do so knowing I can give the axle some good abuse without fear of breaking something on the trail.
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Old 10-09-2013, 08:15 PM   #26
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The reason I am somewhat regretting sinking the money I have in to my D30 is because I'm now planning ahead for 37's and with my 4 speed auto I can't get tall enough gears in the D30. So now I'm stuck deciding between putting even more money into the D30 and running 35's or just keep running the 33's until I can do something different up front. I like to play in the rocks and could use a couple more inches of clearance under the diffs.

In reality I think 35's is a good size tire for the TJ. Always wanting more though and pockets are empty again.

Oh, and I'm running 33's with 4.88's, ARB locker, stock shafts with upgraded u-joints. It's not a DD and I try not to abuse but run it pretty good in the rocks.
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Old 10-09-2013, 09:47 PM   #27
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I want to build axles for true 37s with the 4.0 auto and 4.88s won't cut it so HP30 is out for me...I'm considering dynatrac 44/60 hybrid front n rear but the JK version and have them customized with TJ bracketry

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