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Old 03-01-2012, 07:54 AM   #1
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Bumpsteer.. Drop Pitman Arm

The 97 TJ I just bought with a 4 inch lift has a slight bumpsteer. It has a drop pitman arm on it. After reading several threads on bumpsteer it seems most folks think it should be removed and go back to stock one.

This Jeep does handle well with no vibrations and the steering actually feels better than my 03 other than the drifting it does going down the road. My question is, when I go back to the stock arm what other things could this change in the handling. Will it have to be realigned?? Will any other things have to be changed also? I just don't want to change something and start chasing other things that come up from changing this back.

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2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

1997 TJ Zone 4.25 combo, 33x12.50x15 BFG T/A-KO
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Old 03-01-2012, 09:40 AM   #2
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Get a head on shot of your steering, make sure we can see wheel to wheel and get your track bar and drag link in the picture.

What causes bumpsteer is the geometry of the drag link to the track bar. Picture the driver side mounts as their piviot points. Then picture their arcs of movement. If the two links are not exactly the same length and/or are not parallel to each other and/or not in the same plane of each other you WILL have bumpsteer. Depending on how different they are will get you more or less. No solid axle will have no bumpsteer as it's physically impossible, but it can be reduced that it is virtually unnoticeable. Also bump steer will change slightly as you turn.



Before you just remove the drop pitman arm. Do you also have a drop bracket for your track bar on the axle? This will cause even more bump steer than just a drop pitman arm. The best for jeeps is to keep the stock mounts and adjust the lengths of the links.

Also removing the drop pitman arm will require you to realign the front. At the very least the drag link to straighten your steering wheel.

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Old 03-01-2012, 10:49 AM   #3
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Well, in a hope to not be wrong. I did some more research and have found that I did make a incorrect statement. The lengths don't have to be the same length and don't have to be parallel. The main things to remember is that it's best to have the track bar as vertical as possible to lessen how much the axle will shift to the driver side when articulating. To keep the drag link and track bar in the same arc of movement, i.e. the frame side mounts as close to each other as possible and the axle mounts inside the arc of movement even if it is shorter and not parallel.

Found this picture to show how having them at different lengths and not parallel to each other is possible with minimal bumpsteer. In an effort not to confuse you. Do realize that without welding new mounts on our TJ's keeping the stock locations and getting an adjustable track bar is still the best solution.

The image on the right shows how a setup with unequal lengths and unparallel links can still give minimal bumpsteer.


I know you didn't ask for all this tech but, if I write something important I want to show the why's not just say don't do it it's bad.
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:29 AM   #4
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Thanks for the info. I am on my phone right now. I did take some pics of the front of jeep. I don't think the track bar bracket is lowered. I will post some pics later when I'm on the computer.
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2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

1997 TJ Zone 4.25 combo, 33x12.50x15 BFG T/A-KO
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Old 03-01-2012, 05:45 PM   #5
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Here is a few photos.









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2003 TJ.Zone 3" lift, JKS 1.25 body lift and mml,33x12.50x15 Duratracs, Ace rails, KC lights.

2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

1997 TJ Zone 4.25 combo, 33x12.50x15 BFG T/A-KO
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:53 PM   #6
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1. replace drop pitman arm with stock pitman arm
2. replace old stock track bar with Currie TJJ model
3. remove the bumpstop extensions that are installed on the spring tower side, and install wider bumpstops on the axle pad where they belong for the front.
4. Install adjustable front lower control arms and get an alignment to reset caster & toe.

It'll drive much better
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Old 03-01-2012, 07:56 PM   #7
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Well first off your axle side track bar bracket is weakened with that extra hole. There is definitely not enough metal left over on it. Either replace it with an adjustable in the stock location or reinforce it by welding on a plate.

Also I need a perfectly straight on shot with both ends of the track bar and draglink to really tell but removing the drop pitman arm will help your bumpsteer.
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Just bought a True Hi9 rear and a D44 front, both with ARB's and 4.88 gears!! Check out the build!
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Old 03-01-2012, 08:51 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by UnlimitedLJ04 View Post
1. replace drop pitman arm with stock pitman arm
2. replace old stock track bar with Currie TJJ model
3. remove the bumpstop extensions that are installed on the spring tower side, and install wider bumpstops on the axle pad where they belong for the front.
4. Install adjustable front lower control arms and get an alignment to reset caster & toe.

It'll drive much better
1. That's what I am considering doing.
2. That will come but really can't do that right now.
3. ????? What?
4. I will have it aligned after I figure out what i am going to do about the pitman arm. Then I will know just how bad off it is.

Quote:
Originally Posted by TheTJRod View Post
Well first off your axle side track bar bracket is weakened with that extra hole. There is definitely not enough metal left over on it. Either replace it with an adjustable in the stock location or reinforce it by welding on a plate.

Also I need a perfectly straight on shot with both ends of the track bar and draglink to really tell but removing the drop pitman arm will help your bumpsteer.
I will get a new track bar. Just not right away if it don't need it. I will try to take another pic tomorrow. Since I don't have the stock pitman arm, besides a junk yard, where is a good place to get one. All the parts stores around here showing only a 4 in drop replacement.
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2003 TJ.Zone 3" lift, JKS 1.25 body lift and mml,33x12.50x15 Duratracs, Ace rails, KC lights.

2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

1997 TJ Zone 4.25 combo, 33x12.50x15 BFG T/A-KO
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Old 03-01-2012, 10:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by terminator012 View Post
1. That's what I am considering doing.
2. That will come but really can't do that right now.
3. ????? What?
4. I will have it aligned after I figure out what i am going to do about the pitman arm. Then I will know just how bad off it is.

I will get a new track bar. Just not right away if it don't need it. I will try to take another pic tomorrow. Since I don't have the stock pitman arm, besides a junk yard, where is a good place to get one. All the parts stores around here showing only a 4 in drop replacement.
You need to reading these...
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/bump...ons-80786.html
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/corr...gth-70047.html
TJ Tech BOOT CAMP: A must-read for new TJ owners/forum members - JeepForum.com
What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
bumpstops, shock length, and tires size. help me iron out the fuzzy points.. - JeepForum.com
tj front adjustable track bars for 0-3.5", does yours hit or fit? - JeepForum.com
The "End-all, Be-all TJ Alignment thread" (LONG read) - JeepForum.com
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Old 03-01-2012, 11:35 PM   #10
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Thanks. I will, This Jeep could use some shocks too. I have got to figure out the correct ones to get.
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2003 TJ.Zone 3" lift, JKS 1.25 body lift and mml,33x12.50x15 Duratracs, Ace rails, KC lights.

2010 JKU 1.25 body lift, OME HD lift, JKS tracbars, AEV geometry brackets, Dick Cepek Torque wheels, 315/70/17 Duratracs

1997 TJ Zone 4.25 combo, 33x12.50x15 BFG T/A-KO
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Old 03-02-2012, 11:26 AM   #11
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You can get a stock pitman arm from the big Q.

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