It's called a tummy tuck. Either buy something or make something. The stock skid isn't worth the time modifying.
I have no experience with this type of modification so Im just wondering what makes the factory skid not worthy of modifying,even if its a free modification.It seems like it should be strong enough to handle some decent rash.Thanks
I'm all about free mods, but I agree with freeskier that its not worth the effort. Some guys have used 1/4" flat plate, bashed up the inner body area, and ended up with a totally flat skid. I'm going to buy one because once you factor in metal cost and fabrication time, its cheaper for me to buy one and bolt it in.
__________________ my 06 LJ rubicon
2.5" SL, 1" BL, DIY highline, 35s with double beadlocks.
• 97-02 models with 6cyl (4.0L) and automatic transmission use Part # 1120
• Slip Yoke Eliminator is required - except Rubicon models (sold separately). See Part # 50-7906. • CV Driveshaft is required
- Rubicon models from 4"-up.
• 1" Motor Mount Lift is required (sold separately). See Part # 1156
• 1.25" Body Lift Kit is required (sold separately. See Part # 1157
• Rubicon models require Part # 1123 Compressor relocation bracket (sold separately).
• We also recommend adjustable upper and lower rear control arms in order to properly set up the driveline angle.
Tummy tuck is an expensive mod...not just simply getting a flat skid...
If you have the ability to weld and the skills to do that kind of fab work then it's a waste of time. Assuming you do have these skills it would be simpler to buy a piece of 1/4" plate, use the stock skid to get get your bolt pattern and weld on something for the trans mount.
If you want to put your time into modifying the thin stock skid plate then go for it, it would be interesting. But I doubt you'll find anyone else who has done it.
Also don't forget to factor in all the other mods you will need to raise the driveline. SYE if if you have a slip yoke. Cv shaft, adjustablele control arms, etc.
Listen to the other guys. Along with the Savvy Under Armor I installed, I also needed a MML, BL, Novak cable shifter, SYE, CV drive shaft, and all eight adjustable control arms; yes boys and girls, all eight. Add all that up and it's a nice chunk of change.
I wouldn't try to do it all at once. I'd figure out what direction you want to go with your Jeep, and start getting a few parts at a time. Eventually you'll be at the point where you can just buy the skid and install it.
This is what you want. Modifying the stock skid won't even get you close to that. Use the stocker as a template to trace out the critical dimensions onto a piece of 1/4", cut down a piece of angle for the tranny mount surface, and get to measuring. You want the drivetrain to sit as low as you can get it. And there's no way around needing adjustable arms all around, a fixed rear output yoke and a double cardan drive shaft. Gotta pay to play. Throw in the Novak cable shifter while you're at it, as the stocker really, really sucks once you screw up the orientation that bad.
That's a flat 1/4" skid. The stock plate hangs about 4.5" down, the Rokmen (what I ran prior to making mine) hangs 2.25" down, and the UCF ultra high clearance plate hangs 1" down. The best 'system' out there is by far Savvy's UA, which takes care of everything and is all aluminum. I used UCF's LoPro tranny mount, as well.