can someone please help me my frame is rusted where transmission crossmember bolts go - Jeep Wrangler Forum
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Old 07-21-2012, 10:52 PM   #1
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Question can someone please help me my frame is rusted where transmission crossmember bolts go

On the driver side, the three holes on the frame where my transmission crossmember bolts goes is rusted out. There is a big rusted hole where two of the bolts go. Only one bolt is holding the crossmember in the drive side. In the passenger side it fine. Im afraid when im driving im putting stress on my transmission and transfer case. and when i hit a bump, that one bolt holding is going to snap off. please someone help me what can i do

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Old 07-21-2012, 11:46 PM   #2
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You can get the "Safe T Cap" repair section installed...it's basically a repair section that welds over the existing frame. I did it to mine and it worked great.

I see you are from CT....the company that makes it is based in Rhode Island and they do great work.

Safe-T-Cap - Auto Rust Technicians

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Old 07-21-2012, 11:51 PM   #3
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I had the same problem. I just drilled through the top of the frame and put 6" bolts through. I did that about 5 months and it's still solid. My frame doesn't have much life left so I didn't bother welding the replacement piece in, but if I needed it to last I would have done it.
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Old 07-22-2012, 07:51 AM   #4
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I had the same problem. I just drilled through the top of the frame and put 6" bolts through. I did that about 5 months and it's still solid. My frame doesn't have much life left so I didn't bother welding the replacement piece in, but if I needed it to last I would have done it.

looks pretty scary under there
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Old 07-22-2012, 09:00 AM   #5
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these sound like good ideas. i was thinking to take down the skid plate and weld a peace of meadow in the bottom where the frame rusted and find something i can put where the hole go to put the bolts.im not sure this is a good idea. are there any other way to fix this problem
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:30 AM   #6
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I have seen people weld in new nutserts, but that all depends on how much un rusted metal is left under your frame. If the nutserts pulled out you probably don't have much to weld to. i'd still recommend the Safe t cap.
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:40 AM   #7
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I have seen people weld in new nutserts, but that all depends on how much un rusted metal is left under your frame. If the nutserts pulled out you probably don't have much to weld to. i'd still recommend the Safe t cap.
does the safe t cap come with the nut inserts. and do the safe t cap just go over the frame or do i have to cut that peace of the frame out and weld the peace in. i dont really get how the kit works. can u please tell me how it works
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Old 07-22-2012, 10:53 AM   #8
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Yup ....Heres a pic of the part when I installed it
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:02 AM   #9
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Were I you, I would consider a remanufactured frame, or even one out of a wreck. Yours looks like it has seen better days!
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:08 AM   #10
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The safe t cap slips over the frame so you don't have to cut the entire section out, but you do have to cut the rusted bottom portion out. it lined up just about perfectly.

being from the Boston area it was only a 45 minute drive to their shop so I went there to pick up the part. They were very helpful and while I was there I got to see some examples of the part installed.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:08 AM   #11
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This is such a common problem, Im lucky to have caught mine before it got this bad, I only had to grind off the rust and paint the frame. But If I had to fix it then that Safe T cap is the way I would go, or if I had the tools and time then a frame swap.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:14 AM   #12
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ok it looks like i dont have to cut the frame out. look like i just slid the part in and weld it right. can it be that easy or am i think it wrong.
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:15 AM   #13
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Yup ....Heres a pic of the part when I installed it
Now to adress that tub mount
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:22 AM   #14
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ok it looks like i dont have to cut the frame out. look like i just slid the part in and weld it right. can it be that easy or am i think it wrong.
You do have to cut out the rusted bottom portion of the frame rail, but otherwise that's all you have to do.

Also the fuel lines run down that side of the frame, so you have to either remove them or pull them out of the way (I pulled them out of the way and wrapped them in a welding blanket which is probably not the safest way, but it worked)
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Old 07-22-2012, 11:57 AM   #15
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You do have to cut out the rusted bottom portion of the frame rail, but otherwise that's all you have to do.

Also the fuel lines run down that side of the frame, so you have to either remove them or pull them out of the way (I pulled them out of the way and wrapped them in a welding blanket which is probably not the safest way, but it worked)
ok ill do that. how long did the job take to do all that. and where can i find the nut inserts for the skid plate bolts. im not sure the size nuts and where to find them.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:08 PM   #16
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The most time consuming and labor intensive part of the job was the prep....cutting the rusted area out (I used a cut-off wheel and a sawzall ...in hindsight if I was to do it again, I'd try to rent or borrow a plasma cutter) and grinding along the top of the frame to expose clean metal to weld to

I had limited lift time, so the job stretched out over a few days, but as far as the welding portion, it took maybe 3 hours or so
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:21 PM   #17
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The most time consuming and labor intensive part of the job was the prep....cutting the rusted area out (I used a cut-off wheel and a sawzall ...in hindsight if I was to do it again, I'd try to rent or borrow a plasma cutter) and grinding along the top of the frame to expose clean metal to weld to

I had limited lift time, so the job stretched out over a few days, but as far as the welding portion, it took maybe 3 hours or so
where can i find the nut inserts for the skid plate bolts. im not sure the size nuts and where to find them.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:33 PM   #18
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the nutserts are already installed in the safe t cap
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:56 PM   #19
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the nutserts are already installed in the safe t cap
oh and there threaded already. to fit the bolt that i have.
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Old 07-22-2012, 12:58 PM   #20
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If you can get your bolts out, yes.....I had to get new ones from the dealership
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:10 PM   #21
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If you can get your bolts out, yes.....I had to get new ones from the dealership
i cant go to auto parts store to get those bolts. or are they like special order.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:27 PM   #22
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I believe they are a standard thread but they have a taper at the end of the thread below the head .....I'm sure you could just replace them with a similar bolt from a hardware store ( I believe they are 1/2", but I think certain years used 12 mm)
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:44 PM   #23
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I believe they are a standard thread but they have a taper at the end of the thread below the head .....I'm sure you could just replace them with a similar bolt from a hardware store ( I believe they are 1/2", but I think certain years used 12 mm)
just for now what can i use to hold the skid plate up if you have any ideas.
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:50 PM   #24
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What I did to move my Jeep in and out of the garage was use C-clamps between the top of the frame and the skid cranked down as hard as I could to hold the skid up while I pulled it in and out of the garage .....I don't know if I'd recommend driving on the road like that
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:52 PM   #25
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You could do like Richl3 said and chase the bolt holes through the top of the frame and through-bolt it into place with long bolts
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Old 07-22-2012, 01:55 PM   #26
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What I did to move my Jeep in and out of the garage was use C-clamps between the top of the frame and the skid cranked down as hard as I could to hold the skid up while I pulled it in and out of the garage .....I don't know if I'd recommend driving on the road like that
ok thank for all the help. im going to order the part and new bolt. ill keep you posted to let you know what happen next. thank again
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Old 07-22-2012, 04:46 PM   #27
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If you order from Safe T Cap, they should give you the bolts. They did when I bought mine, so you shouldn't need them.
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Old 08-29-2012, 01:35 PM   #28
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Hey, just wondering how the repair went. I have the same issue, though not quite as bad (yet). I was considering using the Safe T Caps on both sides. Just need to figure out where to borrow/rent a welder.
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Old 08-29-2012, 07:32 PM   #29
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In my opinion..Instead of buying safe t caps, cutting the bottom section of your frame out and welding in the safe t cap. For less money. You could cut the bottom section of your frame out, which your going to do anyway, and get a new strip of 3/16 or 1/4 steel. You could make a template, cut it out, and weld in the new piece. What I did was marked my three points where the nutserts were, drilled my three holes, welded new 1/2" extra heavy nuts to the backside of my replacement piece, then welded the patch piece back into the frame. I did that so I dont have to worry about messing with the nutserts ever again. I coated the inside with eastwood internal frame and the outside with por-15. It turned out great. My frame was not that bad though. I was cleaning out the inside of my frame to get ready for some eastwood coating. When I tried to take the skid down, two of my nutserts spun. After I fought with it and took it down. I hit the frame with a hammer and had some bad spots around the nutserts and the frame dented a little on the bottom. The top and the sides of the frame were awesome. It was just getting a little thin on the bottom where the skid mounted. So I decided to cut it out.
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Old 08-30-2012, 02:04 AM   #30
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In my opinion..Instead of buying safe t caps, cutting the bottom section of your frame out and welding in the safe t cap. For less money. You could cut the bottom section of your frame out, which your going to do anyway, and get a new strip of 3/16 or 1/4 steel. You could make a template, cut it out, and weld in the new piece. What I did was marked my three points where the nutserts were, drilled my three holes, welded new 1/2" extra heavy nuts to the backside of my replacement piece, then welded the patch piece back into the frame. I did that so I dont have to worry about messing with the nutserts ever again. I coated the inside with eastwood internal frame and the outside with por-15. It turned out great. My frame was not that bad though. I was cleaning out the inside of my frame to get ready for some eastwood coating. When I tried to take the skid down, two of my nutserts spun. After I fought with it and took it down. I hit the frame with a hammer and had some bad spots around the nutserts and the frame dented a little on the bottom. The top and the sides of the frame were awesome. It was just getting a little thin on the bottom where the skid mounted. So I decided to cut it out.
do you have any pic of your frame.

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