Thank you. That's kind of what I was looking for. I have a 6.5" speaker but it's only 40w rated power.... guess I have to find a sub.
Make sure if you replace your sub and are using the built- in factory amp, you replace it with one that has 2ohm dual voice coils. Do not confuse that with a sub that has dual 4ohm coils and is stable at 2ohms. It needs to be 2ohm dual coils.
Agreed. This sub is twice as good as the stock. Just replaced mine last weekend.
Though I used the one ohm version. I had read up on it and somehow decided that was adequate since the stock amp is not really 2 ohms but more like 1.4 IIRC. Hope this is OK.
Yeah you must have read the thread where myself and another member were discussing this. There is a .2 difference in the actual ohm rating of the kicker 1 ohm and factory "2" ohm sub. I too used the 1 ohm version and have nothing bad to say about it, nor have i experienced issues.
I can answer that question. hehe. It is probably because it doesn't even give the RMS rating. It is basically just a stock subwoofer, or less. Someone said that a customer blew that one as fast as their OEM. I would therefore assume that since the OEM amp is rated at 50RMS, then the Quad is probably about 50RMS, maybe 60. With a good aftermarket HU, its easy to blow it. This is because you need more than 50RMS on your sub, if your HU is 50watts. Your sub needs more power to hear it. This is probably why everyone is blowing their OEM sub with their aftermarket HU, trying to hear it above their speakers.
If you look at most 5-channel amps, the sub is much higher than the speaker channels because the sub needs more power.(Ex:Alpine PDX-V9 100watts speakers vs. 500watts sub)
My analogy would be: tap a high frequency glass with a fork. It doesn't take much to hear it ring loud. Tap a low frequency floor board, and you will barely hear it. You have to stoop it with your foot, to get the force/power to make it sound as loud as the glass. From what I'm seeing, it takes about five times as much power to get decent sound.
I would therefore think that you really need a 200-250watt RMS sub to work well with a 50watt RMS headunit.
Although, these alleged 50watt RMS HU are not really 50watts RMS. Most of the time, the loudness button is used to "kick-in" the built-in amp. The THD rating given is associated with the normal, let's say, 18watts RMS, and they say 50RMS max. But, with that 50RMS from the loudness button, you can blow your OEM subs because of all the distortion. You could probably blow a 100watt RMS sub with all that distortion. This is why I never use the loudness button, because it can blow your speakers with all the distortion.
I will probably get flamed for being so "winded", but that's just me. Sorry.
It doesn't matter how many watts your stereo puts out. It just provides the signal to the amp that powers the sub. OEM subs are designed to work with OEM head units that are heavily processed. They're designed so that as you turn it way up, the processor in your HU cuts back on the bass so as not to damage the speakers. Aftermarket units don't cut back on processing as volume goes up. The only speakers that are directly related to the wattage being pushed by a new head unit are the front and rear if they are wired directly to the HU and not through the RCA outputs to an amp. Even though the sub takes its signal from the high level speaker outputs, it still just serves as signal for the OEM amp which provides the wattage for the sub.
It doesn't matter how many watts your stereo puts out.
I disagree. It matters in relation to your sub amp power. If your HU puts out 50wattsRMS to the speakers and your sub amp only puts out 50RMS to the sub, how are you going to hear the sub over your speakers?
This is the reason why, for example, a PDX-V9, supplies 100WattsRMS to the speakers and 500watts RMS to the sub.
Rockford Fosgate-40watts speakers vs. 200watts sub.
So, with a 50watt stereo you really need a 250watt sub amp. A 50watt sub amp is not enough power. This is why everyone is blowing their subwoofer speakers. Too much distortion and too little power.
I disagree. It matters in relation to your sub amp power. If your HU puts out 50wattsRMS to the speakers and your sub amp only puts out 50RMS to the sub, how are you going to hear the sub over your speakers? This is the reason why, for example, a PDX-V9, supplies 100WattsRMS to the speakers and 500watts RMS to the sub. Rockford Fosgate-40watts speakers vs. 200watts sub. So, with a 50watt stereo you really need a 250watt sub amp. A 50watt sub amp is not enough power. This is why everyone is blowing their subwoofer speakers. Too much distortion and too little power.
I don't know of any head units putting out 50 watts RMS. Most put out 18-22 watts rms. Besides that, most music above a subs frequency level won't use all of that wattage anyway. So if the OEM amp is pushing 50rms and your other 4 speakers are using an aftermarket radio at 18-22 rms the sound will be fine without distorting a sub and blowing it. You would have to be running a competition style sub to want to use 250 watts rms on it and even then it wouldn't fit in the factory console. To get a 3db gain in sound which is noticeable by ear, you have to double power. 25rms on radio and 50rms amp will give you that 3db gain.
Then, maybe you can explain why everyone is blowing their OEM subs with their aftermarket HU?
I can't speak for everyone else's equipment, but my OEM sub blew because of age and a breakdown of the foam surround. I replaced it with an automotive Bose speaker with dual 2ohm voice coils from an Oldsmobile. It runs off the OEM amp and sounds like a champ.
What I can tell you is that if you try run an OEM sub with 250 watts, it won't last as long as it took you to read this.