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Old 03-23-2012, 11:32 AM   #1
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Changed my front Diff fluid today!

WOW that shit STINKS!!!!
filthy black, I'm thinking this could have very well been the same age as the jeep!
Anyway, simple job. Don't shy away from it. Getting the fill plug out was actually the hardest part of this.
If you're thinking about it but scared, just jump on in.

Instructions used - Jeep Axle Differential Fluid Change Service





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Old 03-23-2012, 11:55 AM   #2
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All gear oil stinks haha

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Old 03-23-2012, 07:50 PM   #3
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yup nasty stuff...
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:31 PM   #4
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I too did mine last year. Front, rear and the transfer case. Bought it early last year. I got lucky, everything looked new. Oil, and the insides all looked great. Glad you got it done. It will last allot longer now.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:33 PM   #5
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That looks nasty! Mine wasn't that bad, I'm doing my spartan and it was dark but not as ugly as the rear.
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Old 03-23-2012, 08:43 PM   #6
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I drained and replaced mine last week. It only has 8k on it but I have been in mud and wanted to take a look early. I didn't remove my diff covers though. Should you remove them and clean with every change?
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Old 03-25-2012, 06:08 PM   #7
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I think that's the easiest way to get it completely clean. In both the front and rear of mine the nastiest go with metal glitter was in the bottom of the diff.
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:34 PM   #8
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I'll be doing at least one axle tomorrow, both if time allows before I have to go to work.

Got all the goodies to do it with, all ready to go. Time's the only issue (and weather...)
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Old 03-25-2012, 08:58 PM   #9
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I want to change my differential fluids. It says that models with trac-lock require an additive for the rear. Anyone know anything about this? Also would u recommend i use synthetic? For trailer pullin it says to use 75w-140, is there a benefit to using this even if i dont pull trailers?
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:08 PM   #10
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Changed mine today because of my locker install. It was still very fresh but was a muddy gray. Not sure if it was from wheeling or what. Probably a bad seal. My breathers are extended
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:20 PM   #11
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May I also recommend Lube Locker Gaskets. No more messing around with RTV now
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Old 03-25-2012, 09:52 PM   #12
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Any help?
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:00 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ruthless Reign
I want to change my differential fluids. It says that models with trac-lock require an additive for the rear. Anyone know anything about this? Also would u recommend i use synthetic? For trailer pullin it says to use 75w-140, is there a benefit to using this even if i dont pull trailers?
Don't use synthetic. It doesn't transfer heat as well as regular oil. And use the oil for what you do. If you don't pull anything, just get the thicker. It will protect it better when its thicker. and most oils now come with the additive in it, but check on the bottle, it will say
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:00 PM   #14
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Originally Posted by Ruthless Reign View Post
Any help?
there is an additive to help limited slip axles. not sure what it does but if you have a passive locker...limited slip...trac lock, etc you are supposed to add it. Its available on the shelf at the store

you wont hurt either way with those two oils...and you wont gain anything from one or the other either. It has to do with the cooling aspect of the oil, thicker is better protection, thinner cools faster...both are fine to use
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:03 PM   #15
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It's been brought up before that synthetics aren't the lube of choice among some axle builders. Synthetics don't remove heat like conventional lubes, at least with high performance/extreme use axles.

For stock axles that don't see extreme use (and the fact that Chrysler recommends it), I'd say use your own judgement. I'll be using synthetic 80W90 in my axles, but I don't do hard core wheeling, towing and don't have super duty axles either.
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Old 03-25-2012, 10:12 PM   #16
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Great thanks for the info guys! I have a rubi so im guessing im better off with the 80w-90 no additive
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:06 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Ruthless Reign View Post
Great thanks for the info guys! I have a rubi so im guessing im better off with the 80w-90 no additive
No you need the additive! Rubicons are equipped with trac lock and you have to add 4 ounces according to the service manual. Just go buy the additive from the dealership. They stay stocked. Buy everything else somewhere else.
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:19 PM   #18
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Thanks for bringing this up. I am doing an axle swap this weekend on my TJ to a set of G2 Dana 44's with ARB's and was just trying to figure out which kind of oil to buy.

Does anyone know how much I will need per axle?
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Old 03-25-2012, 11:51 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SinfulDragon
WOW that shit STINKS!!!!
filthy black, I'm thinking this could have very well been the same age as the jeep!
Anyway, simple job. Don't shy away from it. Getting the fill plug out was actually the hardest part of this.
If you're thinking about it but scared, just jump on in.

Instructions used - Jeep Axle Differential Fluid Change Service
I just changed my rear fluid and it pretty much looked like that too, smelt horribly and I also changed out my pinion seal as well since it was leaking, going to tackle my front when I get paid next week
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:10 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shadews

No you need the additive! Rubicons are equipped with trac lock and you have to add 4 ounces according to the service manual. Just go buy the additive from the dealership. They stay stocked. Buy everything else somewhere else.
Oh ok. I looked at my build sheet and saw nothing about trac-lok. All i saw was tru-lok but dont kno the difference. Here is my build sheet:

Sales Code Description
*A7 Cloth Low-Back Bucket Seats
-JJ Dark Khaki/Medium Khaki
AEM Dual Top Group
AHT Trailer Tow Group
AJP Power Convenience Group
APAS Monotone Paint
BAES 140 Amp Alternator
BC2S 600 Amp Maintenance Free Battery
BNBS Electronic Stability Control
BNGS Hill Start Assist
BNMP Traction Control
BNSP Electronic Roll Mitigation
BNTP Trailer Sway Damping
BPTP Hydraulic Assist Brake Booster
BRWS 4-Wheel Disc Brakes
CACS Low Back Bucket Seats
CAGS Easy Access Passenger Seat
CDBS Reclining Front Seats
CDHP Driver Height Adjuster Seat
CFMS Rear Folding Seat
CGXS RR Head Restraints Outboard Seating
CG3S Advanced Multistage Front Air Bags**
CJ1 Supplemental Frt Seat Side Air Bags
CKES Front Seat Area Carpet
CKFP Rear Seat/Wheelhouse/Cargo Carpet
CKTS Cargo Tie Down Loops
CLCS Front Floor Mats
CLMS Sport Bar w/Full Padding
CSMP Front Seat Back Map Pockets
CS2P Freedom Panel Storage Bag
CUFS Full Length Floor Console
CURS Rear Compartment Storage Tray
DBBC All Manual Transmissions
DEH 6-Speed Manual NSG370 Transmission
DHWS 4:1 Rock-Trac HD Part Time 4WD Sys
DJSS Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Front Axle
DMFS 4.10 Rear Axle Ratio
DRZS Next Gen. Dana 44 HD Rear Axle
DSES Tru-Lok Front & Rear Axles
EGT 3.8L V6 SMPI Engine
GBBS Tinted Windshield Glass
GCBS Front Door Tinted Glass
GCD Deep Tint Sunscreen Windows
GCFS Full Metal Doors w/Roll-up Windows
GFAP Rear Window Defroster
GNAS Rear View Day/Night Mirror
GNUS Sliding Sun Visors w/Mirrors
GTVS Swing-Away Mirrors
GWKP Sunrider Soft Top
GXMP Remote Keyless Entry
GXXS Sentry Key Theft Deterrent System
HAAS Air Conditioning
HGAS Hood Insulation
JA2S Instrument Cluster w/Tach
JCDS 100 MPH Primary Speedometer
JFJS Temperature & Compass Gauge
JHAS Var Intermittent Windshield Wipers
JHBP Rear Window Wiper/Washer
JJFS Single Low Note Horn
JJJS 12V Auxiliary Power Outlet
JKAS Locking Glove Box
JLNP GPS Navigation
JPBP Power Locks
JPYP Pwr Windows, Front 1-Touch Down
KCSS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
K3XS STRIPE/BADGE/MOLDING/COLOR
LABS Tire Pressure Monitoring Warning LP
LCLS Front Dome w/On/Off Switch Lamp
LMAS Halogen Headlamps
LNJS Fog Lamps
LPSS CHMSL Lamp
LSAP Security Alarm
MBAS Painted Front Bumper
MB5S Black Rear Bumper
MEFS Rock Protection Sill Rails
MFRS Black Front Frame Overlay
MFTS Body Color Grille
MT2S Trail Rated Badge
MVCS Jeep Badge
NAS 50 State Emissions
NF2S 18.5 Gallon Fuel Tank
NHMP Speed Control
PEMA Red Rock Crystal Pearl Coat
QEMS Red Rock Crystal Pearl Coat
RC9S 6 Premium Speakers w/Subwoofer
RDDS Fixed Long Mast Antenna
RER Media Center 730N CD/DVD/MP3/HDD/NAV
RFHP 6.5" Touch Screen Display
RSCS SIRIUS Satellite Radio
RSPP Uconnect Voice Command w/Bluetooth
RSSP SiriusXM Traffic
RSUP Audio Jack Input for Mobile Devices
SBAS Power Rack and Pinion Steering
SCLS Leather Wrapped Steering Wheel
SDDS Performance Suspension
SHCS Front and Rear Stabilizer Bars
SHGS Front Disconnecting Stabilizer Bar
SUAS Tilt Steering Column
TBBS Full Size Spare Tire
TBRS Outside Tire Carrier
TT7S LT255/75R17 BSW Off Road Tires
TZGP BF Goodrich Brand Tires
VJXP Black Easy Folding Soft Top
VKXA Black Hard Top
WFHS 17X7.0 Aluminum Chrome Wheels
WKBP Matching Spare Wheel
WLZC All Aluminum Wheels
XEES Fuel Tank Skid Plate Shield
XEFS Transfer Case Skid Plate Shield
XEWS 2 Front & 1 Rear Tow Hooks
XFRP Class V Receiver Hitch
XFUP Trailer Tow w/4-Pin Connector Wiring
XJFS Tethered Fuel Filler Cap
XJGS Non Locking Fuel Filler Cap
XPFS Protective Coating and Remover
XREP 40GB Hard Drive w/20GB Available
X8ZS Seat Parts Module
X81S Instrument Panel Parts Module
X83S Front End Parts Module
X86S Complete Chassis Parts Module
X88S Tire & Wheel Parts Module
X9AP For More Info, Call 888-539-7474
X9BP 1-Year SIRIUS Radio Service
X9CP 1-Yr SIRIUS RealTime Traffic Service
X92S Complete Body in White Parts Module
X94S Complete Painted Body Module
YAAS Build To U.S. Mkt. Specifications

Engine EGT- 3.8L V6 SMPI Engine
Transmission DEH- 6-Speed Manual NSG370 Transmission
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:52 PM   #21
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Since you've got a Rubicon, you've got locking differentials. Not sure if the friction modifier would apply, since yours are selectable, but it wouldn't hurt anything to add it. Better safe than sorry.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:07 PM   #22
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Ok so ill just add it. But now that brings up another question.. Im replacing the cover with an ARB one that has the fill hole at the top. Which means that now i cant tell how much to actually fill it wit. Someone said it takes 4 ounces. So do i add the tube of additive PLUS 4 ounces of differential fluid? Or should it be 4 ounces for both together? Does it even matter if i overfill?
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:18 PM   #23
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4 oz of friction modifier and the rest with gear lube.

Fill the rest with gear lube up to the bottom of the fill hole, or to within at least a 1/2" of the bottom of the hole.
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:25 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lindel
4 oz of friction modifier and the rest with gear lube.

Fill the rest with gear lube up to the bottom of the fill hole, or to within at least a 1/2" of the bottom of the hole.
Ok. But the fill hole for the arb cover is in a different location, its higher than the stock cover so that means more fluid will fit in.

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See the fill hole on the top?
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Old 03-26-2012, 02:38 PM   #25
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Just buy the oil with the additive already in it and fill it up to the fill plug. The plug is at the top of the ARB to allow you to use more lubricant; you won't hurt anything.
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:20 PM   #26
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Just buy the oil with the additive already in it and fill it up to the fill plug. The plug is at the top of the ARB to allow you to use more lubricant; you won't hurt anything.
^^ that info

ARB puts it higher to accommodate higher pinion angles (taller lifts) so you don't starve the pinion gear. (not that I could see how)
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:55 PM   #27
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I tripple that
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Old 03-26-2012, 03:57 PM   #28
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Oops.

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This is wat i bought while i was out, the additive and oil separately. (and some herculiner for the interior when i pull all carpets )
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:16 PM   #29
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Some gear lubes have the additive in it like Mobil 1 Synthetic, read the label, too much is not good. Oh and as far as heat transfer, not sure how hot my Diff is gonna get at 2 to 3 MPH. Now the Mustang is a different story, but again that has always had Synthetic and never an issue.
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Old 03-26-2012, 04:37 PM   #30
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I emailed G2 about the fluid in my D44's and they said not to fill it to the fill hole because it is higher than the stock cover. They told me to put 1.3 quarts in the front and 1.5 quarts in the rear.

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