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Old 04-07-2011, 06:21 PM   #1
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Changing Anti Freeze

Tomorrow i am gona drop the anti freeze and put in new. I do not have a flush kit. I was just gona drain it all compleatly and put in new. According to the Repair manual there is an engine block drain plug by the exhaust manifold. How many of you have drained the block this way? I would like to know what procedure those that have changed there anti freeze them selves did. I have searched the forums and i have not found what i am lookin for.

any help thanks
Scott

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:30 PM   #2
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I would place new coolant into the system only after you've thoroughly flushed all (!) of the old coolant out. There is no telling if the fresh coolant is compatible with the stuff that's in there and if they are not, you could be faced with some definite coolant issues later on. A coolant flush kit is inexpensive, I wouldn't skip that step.

You're using HOAT and not Prestone one-type-fits-all coolant right? And make sure to use only distilled water to mix with the fresh coolant.

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Old 04-07-2011, 06:30 PM   #3
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I'm going to be doing this also, probably on the weekend. I don't have anything to add, but am interested in finding more about others' experiences on this.

I was planning to use a flush solution prior to filling up with the new fluid, though.
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Old 04-07-2011, 09:09 PM   #4
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I decided to take Jerrys advice and i went and got a flush kit. I was just thinking that wasn't really nessasary, but after all the other searches i did i think he was totaly right. gona give it a go tomorrow.
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Old 04-08-2011, 09:36 PM   #5
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Score another HIT for Mr. Bransford, he seldom misses (if ever).
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Old 04-09-2011, 06:20 AM   #6
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yup, buy the Prestone flush kit, they're $5. buy an anti-freeze tester. they're $2. hook it up to a garden hose and follow the instructions on the package.

flush it, drain it completely from the radiator, and pour in some Zerex GO5. Use an anti-freeze tester to get the 50/50 mix with Zerex GO5 & distilled water. Zerex GO5 is a good HOAT type antifreeze.
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Old 04-09-2011, 07:03 AM   #7
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yup, buy the Prestone flush kit, they're $5. buy an anti-freeze tester. they're $2. hook it up to a garden hose and follow the instructions on the package.

flush it, drain it completely from the radiator, and pour in some Zerex GO5. Use an anti-freeze tester to get the 50/50 mix with Zerex GO5 & distilled water. Zerex GO5 is a good HOAT type antifreeze.
Yup... already did that. I flushed it yesterday, took off all the old hoses and those crappy factory hoseclamps, but on all new hoses and hose clamps, new thermostat and gasket, put in Zerex G05 antifreeze. I did put in distilled water. I had asked several mechanics about it of why i cant find any and they said cause our water is good water...not like other places in the US, He said the only place to buy it is at the local grocery store, so i went and bought some just to stick with what everyone else says. So after all that i procceded to change the gear oil in the front and rear diferentials. When i 1st bought this jeep i took it to a jeep service center and had that done but i think they just sucked out the gear oil.. the front and rear covers looked like they have never been removed. So i did this and put new 80w90 gear oil in with limited slip additive. I kinda had a busy day.
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Old 04-09-2011, 10:39 AM   #8
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Actually Scotiez, the factory hose clamps are significantly better than the aftermarket worm-gear type of aftermarket hose clamp. Factory hose clamps are known as "constant tension" and they keep a constant amount of tension on the hose no matter what the temperature is. The other type that you just installed does not and they tend to leak more readily unless you overtighten them.
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:36 PM   #9
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Actually Scotiez, the factory hose clamps are significantly better than the aftermarket worm-gear type of aftermarket hose clamp. Factory hose clamps are known as "constant tension" and they keep a constant amount of tension on the hose no matter what the temperature is. The other type that you just installed does not and they tend to leak more readily unless you overtighten them.
I'll have to go with my experiance and my own opinion on those factory hose clamps. I have never liked those kind, Just one more tool to buy in order to get them off or put on. A channel lock will work but after all the cussin and swearing i did yesterday and bustin my knuckles on the very last hose clamp everyone went in the garbage. I have never had trouble with the worm gear clamps in the past on other vehicles.. but if one leaks then i'll put on two. Its still easier then the factory ones.
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:45 PM   #10
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I hate the worm gear clamps. Those flush kits come with worm gear clamps and mine is always leaking. Have to constantly re tighten them. Never have I had a leak with the factory clamps. You must not have big enough channel locks because it takes about a second to remove my factory clamps.

When I replace my radiator next month I will be getting a new heater hose to get rid of the stupid "T" flush.
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Old 04-09-2011, 01:52 PM   #11
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Like i said .. Matter of opinion. mine is just different then yours from my own expericances
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:24 PM   #12
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Back to the original question, where is the block drain?
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Old 04-11-2011, 03:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Actually Scotiez, the factory hose clamps are significantly better than the aftermarket worm-gear type of aftermarket hose clamp. Factory hose clamps are known as "constant tension" and they keep a constant amount of tension on the hose no matter what the temperature is. The other type that you just installed does not and they tend to leak more readily unless you overtighten them.
yup. I hate the factory clamps, but once you get the right tools they aren't too bad.

I always liked the worm gear clamps until I installed a tranny cooler & upgraded some lines on my OBA. Then I realized what a huge pain they are. On the tranny cooler, I actually overtorqued them so much I stripped out the worm gear & mangled the band. I even tried hooking up my Makita screwgun and blasting them so tight I couldn't get em off by hand. All that did was damage the lines and destroy the clamp. Still leaked. Huge PITA. Finally needed to go down a size in clamps and double up (4 per connection), alternating the positions of the worms.
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Old 04-11-2011, 04:21 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zeep
Back to the original question, where is the block drain?
It's behind the exhaust manifold. A real PITA to get at, i didn't bother with it. The block will only hold a quart or two of water.
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:00 PM   #15
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I can't believe this. I am frustrated on a antifreeze leak from the thermostat housing. My 1st try it leaked like a siv while filling the radiator with new antifreeze. Took it apart and rechecked to make sure i didn't leave part of the old gasket on. Nothing. everything was clean. Put on a new gasket and this time i put on silicone for water pumps and thermostats. I still have a small leak comming from the bottom of the houseing. I am tighting it down to 15 pounds just like the service repair manual says. I will now be draining it a 3rd time, clean off all the gasket stuff and put another one on .. If this one leaks im bringing it to a shop in town. And maybe trade this gas hog in. Cause i am tired of messing with something that should have been ok after the 1st time. Sorry for my rant. I am just sick of fixing something that should have been fixed the 1st time but now i'll be taking it apart for a 3rd time. NOT ACCEPTABLE!
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Old 04-11-2011, 10:27 PM   #16
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Originally Posted by scotiez View Post
I can't believe this. I am frustrated on a antifreeze leak from the thermostat housing. My 1st try it leaked like a siv while filling the radiator with new antifreeze. Took it apart and rechecked to make sure i didn't leave part of the old gasket on. Nothing. everything was clean. Put on a new gasket and this time i put on silicone for water pumps and thermostats. I still have a small leak comming from the bottom of the houseing. I am tighting it down to 15 pounds just like the service repair manual says. I will now be draining it a 3rd time, clean off all the gasket stuff and put another one on .. If this one leaks im bringing it to a shop in town. And maybe trade this gas hog in. Cause i am tired of messing with something that should have been ok after the 1st time. Sorry for my rant. I am just sick of fixing something that should have been fixed the 1st time but now i'll be taking it apart for a 3rd time. NOT ACCEPTABLE!
Are you using a fel pro gasket? I had trouble with the felt pro gasket leaking when I replaced my thermostat. I went and bought some RTV and it sealed it up like a charm. I was not impressed with fel pro. When using RTV try to do one continuous bead and when you tighten the housing down make sure you let it set up before filling with antifreeze.
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Old 04-12-2011, 02:06 PM   #17
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1st one was a fel pro gasket, not sure what brand is now. I got it from napa. Looks like this one is holding so far. One side is sticky and I put rtv on the other. I let it set up for an hour and a half before I refilled the radiator. Gona keep my fingers crossed.

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