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Old 03-08-2012, 02:48 PM   #1
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Changing fluid in differential ?

Should u change it and when do u change it ? Then if I should how do i check it and what do i look for ?

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Old 03-08-2012, 03:12 PM   #2
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I think the FSM for my year said to change it at 90k miles. Not sure when your supposed to before that. It's not really worth checking it. Just undo all the bolts except the top and let all the fluid drain into a container. Then take the cover off. You have to clean off the old gasket. Also clean the area it contacts on the diff. Then put a new silicone gasket on it. Depending on the silicone you use you may not want to fill it back up right away.

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Old 03-08-2012, 03:13 PM   #3
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Don't be surprised if there's fine metal in there if its been a while since it was done.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:13 PM   #4
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Good idea to change front & rear, as well as your transfer case and transmission oils. Good info here > Jeep Axle Differential Fluid Change Service have fun
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:20 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaker541 View Post
Should u change it and when do u change it ? Then if I should how do i check it and what do i look for ?
I checked my front (D30) last weekend, by pulling the fill plug, stick my finger in there to feel for fluid and to check color. Clear yellow.

Pulled the rear (D35) plug and instantly black nasty crap from hell ooozed out....gloop gloop gloop. Apparently water got in there. Even though I replaced the fluid, I don't expect my bearings to make it another year.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:24 PM   #6
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Well I just got it and it an 06 but only has 44000 miles on it .. Should I even worry with the low miles ?
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaker541
Well I just got it and it an 06 but only has 44000 miles on it .. Should I even worry with the low miles ?
Don't quote me on this but I thought I remember seeing it as every 30k miles. I'll check my manual tonight if somebody doesn't beat me to it.
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:32 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolbreeze
Good idea to change front & rear, as well as your transfer case and transmission oils. Good info here > Jeep Axle Differential Fluid Change Service have fun
Excellent info to have ! Thank you for the link!!
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Old 03-08-2012, 03:34 PM   #9
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Well I just got it and it an 06 but only has 44000 miles on it .. Should I even worry with the low miles ?

I would at a minimum, pull the plug and stick your finger in there as a dip stick. Takes just a few minutes to check it.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:46 PM   #10
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OP i just looked at the FSM for 05 because i didn't have 06. it should be the same for all year TJs. it says every 12k miles you should drain and fill both front and rear.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:29 PM   #11
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My factory manual lacks a change interval except for the heavy use of ever 12k. I like to change my diffs around the same time I change my Tcase and manual trans every 30k. Since I don't get to offroad much and it is my DD 30k should be a decent interval for street driven.
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Old 03-08-2012, 06:43 PM   #12
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I will most likely do it in a month or so just so I know it was done. Thanks for all the info everyone !!
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Old 03-08-2012, 10:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaker541
Well I just got it and it an 06 but only has 44000 miles on it .. Should I even worry with the low miles ?
I would at least check it to satisfy the mind!
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:24 AM   #14
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I would just add; beware to use the right fluids and make sure the rear axle does or does not have Trac-Loc. I just had to replace the gears in my rear axle because when I was doing some maintenance I called the dealer and asked them how I could tell if I had Trac-Locs or not, they asked for the model I told them it was an X and they told me no. I did not put the additive for Trac-Loc in it and a few months later my rear axle went out. I took off the cover and what did I find, yep Trac-Loc. Also I took my jeep in and had the tranny serviced for my move to S.D. a couple of months after I got here transmission stated to grind. It got really bad, I considered having it worked on. The transmission shop suggested changing the fluid, Napa, Auto Zone, or anywhere else had the fluid that was recommended. They said go to the dealer, $20 a qt and 3qts later shifting problem was gone. I think the shop that serviced it used the wrong fluid. I’ve read on other forums that the jeeps transmission is really picky about the fluid used.
Sorry this was so long winded, but I hope it helps alleviates any future problems.
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:26 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Black98 View Post
My factory manual lacks a change interval except for the heavy use of ever 12k. I like to change my diffs around the same time I change my Tcase and manual trans every 30k. Since I don't get to offroad much and it is my DD 30k should be a decent interval for street driven.
that's kinda what i do. i change everything every 30-40k miles. hell, most owners never change their vehicles fluids other than engine oil. the fsm is just a guideline.
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Old 03-09-2012, 03:48 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Kenneth76 View Post
I would just add; beware to use the right fluids and make sure the rear axle does or does not have Trac-Loc. I just had to replace the gears in my rear axle because when I was doing some maintenance I called the dealer and asked them how I could tell if I had Trac-Locs or not, they asked for the model I told them it was an X and they told me no. I did not put the additive for Trac-Loc in it and a few months later my rear axle went out. I took off the cover and what did I find, yep Trac-Loc. Also I took my jeep in and had the tranny serviced for my move to S.D. a couple of months after I got here transmission stated to grind. It got really bad, I considered having it worked on. The transmission shop suggested changing the fluid, Napa, Auto Zone, or anywhere else had the fluid that was recommended. They said go to the dealer, $20 a qt and 3qts later shifting problem was gone. I think the shop that serviced it used the wrong fluid. Iíve read on other forums that the jeeps transmission is really picky about the fluid used.
Sorry this was so long winded, but I hope it helps alleviates any future problems.
You don't need to be too worried about the fluid in the differential. Dana/Spicer differentials are used in many cars and trucks so MOPAR oil is not needed.

Get any API GL-5 spec hypoid gear oil and buy the bottle of additive for the rear differential. If you're not sure if you have the LSD, just buy the additive anyway as it won't do any damage if you don't have the LSD. I bought the additive/friction modifier and bought 3.5 quarts of WM. Penn 85W-140 mineral hypoid oil at less than $8/quart.
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Old 03-10-2012, 01:18 AM   #17
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You don't need to be too worried about the fluid in the differential. Dana/Spicer differentials are used in many cars and trucks so MOPAR oil is not needed.

Get any API GL-5 spec hypoid gear oil and buy the bottle of additive for the rear differential. If you're not sure if you have the LSD, just buy the additive anyway as it won't do any damage if you don't have the LSD. I bought the additive/friction modifier and bought 3.5 quarts of WM. Penn 85W-140 mineral hypoid oil at less than $8/quart.
True & the prices I mentioned was for the transmission, the diff fluid I bought from Napa was a synthetic 75W-140 with LS modifier. I went to a few local shops that work on diffs and talked with them, they all highly recommended using the Mopar additive/friction modifier if the axle is equipped with Trac-Loc assembly; this is only $10 from the dealer. The only reason I even mention this was 4 months ago I chanced all of my fluids "did not use the recommended dealer modifier" and took off the diff cover and inspected all of the gears they were fine, 4 months later the rear-end went out and the gears ended up sheering and going smooth. Might be related, might not be but I wonít make that mistake again. This is just my experience and my attempt to give some advice to the original post.
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Old 03-20-2012, 09:11 PM   #18
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Ok do I just use a racket driver to remove plug? It is the plug facing front on front differential a little under half way up right.. Just want to make sure
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:28 AM   #19
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Ok do I just use a racket driver to remove plug? It is the plug facing front on front differential a little under half way up right.. Just want to make sure
Yes a 3/8" drive will do it.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:33 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Kenneth76 View Post
True & the prices I mentioned was for the transmission, the diff fluid I bought from Napa was a synthetic 75W-140 with LS modifier. I went to a few local shops that work on diffs and talked with them, they all highly recommended using the Mopar additive/friction modifier if the axle is equipped with Trac-Loc assembly; this is only $10 from the dealer. The only reason I even mention this was 4 months ago I chanced all of my fluids "did not use the recommended dealer modifier" and took off the diff cover and inspected all of the gears they were fine, 4 months later the rear-end went out and the gears ended up sheering and going smooth. Might be related, might not be but I won’t make that mistake again. This is just my experience and my attempt to give some advice to the original post.
The use of or lack of friction modifier had nothint go do with your gear problem. Not a thing. The only thing a friction modifier does is slightly change how the clutch disk plates slip against each other when there is a Tracloc LSD installed. Friction modifier has nothing to do with lubricating the gears.

And it is EXTREMELY difficult to find a gear lube in any auto parts store that does not already have the friction modifier added to it. You have to look hard to find a gear lube that does not have the friction modifier added. And Mopar's friction modifier additive is no different than what comes in the gear lubes or sold separately in auto part stores.
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Old 03-22-2012, 07:48 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
The use of or lack of friction modifier had nothint go do with your gear problem. Not a thing. The only thing a friction modifier does is slightly change how the clutch disk plates slip against each other when there is a Tracloc LSD installed. Friction modifier has nothing to do with lubricating the gears.

And it is EXTREMELY difficult to find a gear lube in any auto parts store that does not already have the friction modifier added to it. You have to look hard to find a gear lube that does not have the friction modifier added. And Mopar's friction modifier additive is no different than what comes in the gear lubes or sold separately in auto part stores.
I understand the concept of what a friction modifier does but if something dose not move the way its supposed to or binds in any way it can cause other parts to fail. As fare as the difference in the mopar brand vs over the counter brands, is the any information or documentation to support your opinion? Or am I or anyone else just supposed to take you at you word. All of the shops I've talked to disagree with what you are saying. And again I was just offering some friendly advice to the OP. Use what you want and lets move on now.

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