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Old 08-23-2005, 07:33 AM   #1
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Changing fluids and other routine maintanence

Hi,

Getting ready to buy a used 2000 TJ Sport for my son with about 60,000 miles on it. I'll want to change out all of the fluids and wondered what everyone recommends for oil, tranny, transfer case, differentials, radiator, etc. Also, what other routine items should I do right off (i.e. cap and rotor, plug wires, plugs - what type, wheel bearings???).

Thanks for the help,
Paul

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Old 08-23-2005, 07:46 AM   #2
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You have the right idea. Change all the fluids. My clock turned over 60k a few days ago and I did all the same things you listed. I switched to full synthetic for the engine oil. Diff oils were just a standard 80-90w gear oil with limited slip additive (if it has the limited slip or locker). I changed my air filter to a K&N drop in. Changed the cap, rotor, plugs and wires. I used the Bosch 4+ Platinum with some 7mm double silicone wires. Cap and rotor are no special make. I also gave the throttle body a nice cleaning. My next things to do would be the tranny, tcase and radiator flushes. OH and you might want to consider a fuel filter change. It requires removing the gas tank but I know it will need it.

I just noticed that you are talking about a 2000. I think the 2000s and newer do not use the tradition electrical setup (plugs, wires, cap, rotor). Someone else will drop in and let you know. I hope this helps.

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Old 08-23-2005, 07:55 AM   #3
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Yeap the 2000+ jeeps use a rail system over the plugs.. rather nice setup. Thus just check the plugs and you should be good.

Also, in your fluid change, don't forget about the power steering fluid.
And check the serpintine (spelling?) belt for wear too.
One problem area on the TJ's as they get higher miles, is the radiator, which can start to leak around where the metal and plastic meet up. So down the road keep that in mind.
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Old 09-04-2005, 03:08 PM   #4
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Some people like the "fancy" plugs, but most TJ's seem to prefer the champion 4412 truck plug. They don't foul as easily. Lucas 80/90 gear oil works well for many of us in the diffs.....as far as going to synthetics, that is a personal choice...my .02
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Old 07-09-2007, 09:14 PM   #5
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I picked up a 1999 TJ with 120,000mi on it. Everything is there and everything works, eng. sounds fine and 4WD works too. I know it needs all the above changes and one of the front knuckels is bad. The exhaust manifold is cracked too, heard that was common. That's all I found so far, but what should I be looking for on this high mile jeep TJ.
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:43 PM   #6
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Serointine belt

I need to change the Serpintine belt on my 2000TJ SE and am not sure how to release tension on the belt and then retension it when changed. Also so how do I tell how tight to make it. Thanks for any help on this as I have been trying to find something on the web for this but no luck.

Thanks again

Dan
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Old 10-22-2008, 01:49 PM   #7
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I'm not real familiar with your 2.5L engine Doneil2 but if it's like newer 4.0L engines, the serpentine belt rides on a spring-loaded idler pulley which does not have to be loosened or adjusted. You simply place an open-end wrench onto the back side of the idler pulley mount and push the pulley over against its spring to release the tension on the serpentine belt.
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Old 10-22-2008, 03:50 PM   #8
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x2 its like that on the majority of newer vehicles. i would venture to guess your SE would be similar
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Old 10-23-2008, 07:41 AM   #9
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The 2.5L engine has the adjuster pulley mounted on a 'track' (ie bolt) and you adjust it tighter or looser by adjusting the bolt - the pulley will go up or down based on which way you go. I WISH it had that arm to make it easier. But a standard socket with a good extension makes easy work of this.

Note the pic:


IIRC, to loosen, lefty loosey. It will 'lower' the pulley. To tighten it back up, righty, tighty.

It is tight enough when you can press down on the long distance between the 2 top most pulleys and it gives less than 1" IIRC. Or if you have a belt tension gauge (I bet you don't), it should be between 140-160 lbs for a used one and 180-200 lbs for a new one.

If you start up the engine and it squeals like a stuck pig, it's probably too loose still.

As for fluids, I run full synthetics in my 97 SE.

Engine - Mobil 1 5w-30
Transmission - Redline MT90 (manual)
T-case - Mobil 1 ATF
Diffs - Valvoline 75W90 or 80w90 synthetic

It has run a lot smoother since I swapped that stuff in. I had 90k plus on mine when I made the swap.

For plugs, I run the basic 4412 Champions and they work very well. The only trick is getting the front-most plug out. If you slide the plug socket in there between the engine and a/c setup, you can pop it on. Then use one of those flex joints, then your extension. Easy to do w/o having to remove any additional parts.

I'd at least inspect the wires for wear or bad spots and replace if needed. Check the cap/distributor and since they are cheap enough, just go ahead and swap it for peace of mind.
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Old 10-23-2008, 10:56 AM   #10
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That diagram is similar to how it's adjusted on my '97. While this may seem redundant to mention, remember that you have to loosen the bolt labeled '2' in the above diagram before the tension can be adjusted. Not all do remember to do so since it's not obvious.
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Old 10-23-2008, 11:02 AM   #11
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If you loosen it too much though, and the pulley will detach entirely and you have a different situation to worry about.

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