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Old 08-28-2010, 12:53 PM   #1
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Cheapo Off-Road lights from Northern Tool

So I picked up a pair to mount to my windshield hinge brackets a few weeks ago. I put them on today and ran the wiring under the cowl and in through the drivers side firewall. I have a switch to mount on the dash and the instructions say to take the blue power wire with an inline 10amp fuse either directly to the battery or to a 12V source in the fuse box.

Questions:

1. Should I run a relay from the battery and connect to that?

2. How would I wire up a relay and switch in "lay mans" terms please. I did look at the write-up on Stu Olsons site but I must not be smart enough to figure out the diagram he provided...

3. If I can just run the blue wire off the switch to a 12V power source in the fuse box then any recommendations as to where to connect it? The instructions don't mention using a relay at all...

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2002 TJ, 3" RCD coil springs, 1" body lift, 32" BFG AT KO's, 15X10 Cragar Soft 8's, Rocky Mount Discos, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, new Rugged Ridge soft top (VERY LOUD!!!!). PowerAid throttle body spacer, AIRAID CAI, DYNOMAX Super Turbo CATBACK.

Rocking the country music through a Sony Xplod head unit (iPod/iPhone compatible) 300W Dual amp, 10" Pioneer sub in the back.


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Old 08-28-2010, 01:19 PM   #2
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Driving lights need a relay for two reasons... 1) To prevent the full amperage a driving light requires from needing to pass into the passenger compartment and through the on-off switch. Typical automotive size on-off switches can't handle that much current without eventually burning the switch contacts up. 2) So the driving light will be as bright as it is designed to be. The length of wire needed to connect everything up would have to be extremely heavy gauge for there to be no voltage loss that would dim it.

Here's a good wiring diagram to use which uses the required relay. You can use lighter gauge wiring between the switch and relay like 16 gauge, use heavier gauge like 12 gauge between the relay, battery, and lights.
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Old 08-28-2010, 01:48 PM   #3
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Thanks Jerry, I am heading off to Autozone for a relay right now
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2002 TJ, 3" RCD coil springs, 1" body lift, 32" BFG AT KO's, 15X10 Cragar Soft 8's, Rocky Mount Discos, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, new Rugged Ridge soft top (VERY LOUD!!!!). PowerAid throttle body spacer, AIRAID CAI, DYNOMAX Super Turbo CATBACK.

Rocking the country music through a Sony Xplod head unit (iPod/iPhone compatible) 300W Dual amp, 10" Pioneer sub in the back.


http://img1.jurko.net/10183.gif
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Old 08-28-2010, 08:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Driving lights need a relay for two reasons... 1) To prevent the full amperage a driving light requires from needing to pass into the passenger compartment and through the on-off switch. Typical automotive size on-off switches can't handle that much current without eventually burning the switch contacts up. 2) So the driving light will be as bright as it is designed to be. The length of wire needed to connect everything up would have to be extremely heavy gauge for there to be no voltage loss that would dim it.

Here's a good wiring diagram to use which uses the required relay. You can use lighter gauge wiring between the switch and relay like 16 gauge, use heavier gauge like 12 gauge between the relay, battery, and lights.
Jerry,

I like the diagram. You beat me to it. Lol
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:21 PM   #5
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That is a simple diagram. Easiest one that i have seen in a while.

I learned the hard way about running a relay. I almost burnt down a truck.
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Old 08-28-2010, 09:32 PM   #6
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I learned about relays in wiring 20 years ago while I was learning about bus wiring
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Both as a commuter vehicle in NW, NJ
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Old 08-29-2010, 08:38 AM   #7
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post a pick when you're finished...
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:13 AM   #8
Knows a couple things...

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Originally Posted by rbloodhound View Post
That is a simple diagram. Easiest one that i have seen in a while.
Yeah that's a good drawing that I can't take credit for. Whoever drew it did a good job on it, anyone can understand it.
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:20 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Yeah that's a good drawing that I can't take credit for. Whoever drew it did a good job on it, anyone can understand it.
I am proof of that

Thanks again Jerry.

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2002 TJ, 3" RCD coil springs, 1" body lift, 32" BFG AT KO's, 15X10 Cragar Soft 8's, Rocky Mount Discos, Skyjacker Nitro 8000's, new Rugged Ridge soft top (VERY LOUD!!!!). PowerAid throttle body spacer, AIRAID CAI, DYNOMAX Super Turbo CATBACK.

Rocking the country music through a Sony Xplod head unit (iPod/iPhone compatible) 300W Dual amp, 10" Pioneer sub in the back.


http://img1.jurko.net/10183.gif
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