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Old 06-09-2011, 08:39 AM   #1
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Exclamation Clutch or transmission problems- grinding gears- need help!

Hi everybody, my transmission (NVG3550) has always grinded when shifting if you shift too fast (common problem and the nature of the beast). It has always acted the same never any better or worse. However, after power washing and degreasing the undercarriage and painting it the other day, it grinds in 2nd and 3rd like 80-90% of the time. To make it not grind, you have to shift ridiculously slow, like 3 secs after clutching. Even then, it still feels notchy. Also, when starting off in 1st or reverse, you kinda have to give it extra throttle or it will shake and kinda clunk around. It didn't use to do this. It's kinda like the clutch is slipping upon starting and not fully engaging when shifting. Do you all think that power washing the undercarriage and using degreaser somehow flooded the clutch or transmission or something, similar to clutching when stuck in deep water? Also, the crunch when shifting is blood-curdling and loud! It makes me cringe. I have thought about the sychros in the tranny are bad or something is messed up with the master/ slave cylinders. Please tell me all of your opinions. Thanks so much!
P.S.- I'm going to be draining the transmission fluid and replacing with hopefully Royal Purple Synchromesh maybe tomorrow.

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Old 06-09-2011, 09:24 AM   #2
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Also, the clutch pedal squeaks when pushed in and let out...

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Old 06-09-2011, 02:12 PM   #3
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Hmm, well the synch's job is to as the name says synchronize the mating of the gears.
Unless you are speed shifting, it should go smoothly into gear.

Now then a bad clutch can also cause this, not fully disengaging it's letting the main shaft spin under pressure which makes it hard for the synchs to match up to the trans gears.

Too thick of fluid will cause this, but I doubt that is your problem.

The shudder on acceleration from a stop sounds like a clutch.

Taking a shot at it, the pressure plate is collapsed. Not fully disengaging, and not applying enough pressure any more.


As for the squeaking clutch pedal, try lubing the bushings on it.
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Old 06-09-2011, 02:53 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shelby427 View Post
Hmm, well the synch's job is to as the name says synchronize the mating of the gears.
Unless you are speed shifting, it should go smoothly into gear.

Now then a bad clutch can also cause this, not fully disengaging it's letting the main shaft spin under pressure which makes it hard for the synchs to match up to the trans gears.

Too thick of fluid will cause this, but I doubt that is your problem.

The shudder on acceleration from a stop sounds like a clutch.

Taking a shot at it, the pressure plate is collapsed. Not fully disengaging, and not applying enough pressure any more.


As for the squeaking clutch pedal, try lubing the bushings on it.
Thanks for the reply. I'll look in to what you've said and see if I (and the mechanic) can get her fixed up. Thanks!
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Old 06-09-2011, 06:12 PM   #5
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Pressure plate

Mine was kinda like that. After pulling the tranny I found a clutch pressure plate ears had worn so much the release bearing was going through and not disengaging the clutch. The plate was very close to rivets so it was actually a good thing it happened or I would have been replacing the flywheel too.
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Old 06-09-2011, 08:17 PM   #6
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Mine was kinda like that. After pulling the tranny I found a clutch pressure plate ears had worn so much the release bearing was going through and not disengaging the clutch. The plate was very close to rivets so it was actually a good thing it happened or I would have been replacing the flywheel too.
Thanks for the info! Did you replace the clutch, master/slave too or just the pressure plate?
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:22 AM   #7
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The Master failed because the pressure to work the bad pressure plate cause the seals to fail. So, yes, Master and Slave were replaced then the tranny was pulled and a new LuK clutch kit was installed. The pressure plate was scuffed with 220 emery to rough it up and clean up some glazing caused by the P.O. She works like a dream now.
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Old 06-11-2011, 02:59 PM   #8
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The Master failed because the pressure to work the bad pressure plate cause the seals to fail. So, yes, Master and Slave were replaced then the tranny was pulled and a new LuK clutch kit was installed. The pressure plate was scuffed with 220 emery to rough it up and clean up some glazing caused by the P.O. She works like a dream now.
Ok. I'm going to buy the LuK clutch also. Not sure if I'll need the master and slave though. Where did you buy the clutch from and how much? Also, now the Jeep won't crank, it just clicks when the key is turned. Not sure if that is related to clutch though.
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:26 PM   #9
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Is it the pedal that squeaks or is it coming from the clutch? When I did mine last year, I went ahead and replaced the flywheel while I was there...I got the old one resurfaced and will drop that in on the next change...it was 60ish dollars and 10 for the resurface of the old one. I also do this with my rotors...take the old ones off, put the other ones I had taken off previously and resurfaced and put those on...I like not having to fund a brake shop open at10pm when I normally have the free time to do my stuff. AND you don't have to get someone to take you there because your car is in pieces!
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Old 06-11-2011, 03:48 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by jeepson33s View Post
Is it the pedal that squeaks or is it coming from the clutch? When I did mine last year, I went ahead and replaced the flywheel while I was there...I got the old one resurfaced and will drop that in on the next change...it was 60ish dollars and 10 for the resurface of the old one. I also do this with my rotors...take the old ones off, put the other ones I had taken off previously and resurfaced and put those on...I like not having to fund a brake shop open at10pm when I normally have the free time to do my stuff. AND you don't have to get someone to take you there because your car is in pieces!
The squeak seems to be coming from the pedal. I'm just going to have the shop do the work because I don't have experience with that and not much free time.
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Old 06-11-2011, 04:20 PM   #11
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As for your clicking starter. Check every connection, battery and grounds, pull em off, both ends, hit em with a wire brush, and what they connect to, don't forget the battery ends too. Tighten the battery terminals good and tight. Poor connections are always the first thing to look at on a jeep.

Then take a run to Advance or Auto Zone, they can run a full system check, battery/alternator/starter for you for free!
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Old 06-12-2011, 02:15 PM   #12
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LuK

Quote:
Originally Posted by NCJeepin View Post
Ok. I'm going to buy the LuK clutch also. Not sure if I'll need the master and slave though. Where did you buy the clutch from and how much? Also, now the Jeep won't crank, it just clicks when the key is turned. Not sure if that is related to clutch though.
I got mine off E-bay. Look for a good seller. I think the part number is 05-0065.
Check the Master/Slave when it's removed for clutch replacement. Pressing the pedal should move the slave piston out. If there is any doubt, swap them both. Cheap and easy when you have it all torn down anyway. Buy the Advance Auto Parts version. They are both metal and the slave has a bleeder.
Torque the flywheel and pressure plate bolts correctly. Emery the flywheel or resurface it. Emery the throw out collar shaft to make it smooth then grease it. Grease all the moving parts of the throw out mechanism to make sure they work properly. Clean any clutch plate parts with brake cleaner to remove residual oil before assembling the clutch plate/pressure plate.

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