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Old 02-28-2012, 01:50 PM   #1
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Clutch problems please help!!!!

I just replaced the clutch (flywheel, pressure plate, friction plate, t/o bearing, fork retainer, slave and master cyl) in my 98 tj everything seems to be correctly installed. ive bled and bled and bled using every method i have found (remove slave and pump by hand, worthless bleeder screw, and the "tap dance" method) but my clutch will not disengage letting me go into gear. the pedal seems to feel firmer when the engine is off. i've been working on this for about 10 days now and am at my wits' end. what did i miss????? also the plunger rod on the slave only moves forward about an inch if im putting pressure on it.

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Old 02-28-2012, 02:02 PM   #2
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It's possible you just have a bad master cylinder, and it's leaking fluid back into the reservoir instead of down to the slave. Bad parts do happen.

You may want to stick a screwdriver in the slave socket though, and make sure you can push the fork manually. If something is jammed in there, the slave won't be able to move it either.

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Old 02-28-2012, 02:18 PM   #3
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Would it be something simple as the Clutch disk installed in wrong direction, it could be getting hung up.
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:36 PM   #4
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made sure i checked the disk 3 times before i installed it. it really is acting like its something hydraulic. pedal is real spongy and the slave doesnt seem to be traveling far enough
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:24 PM   #5
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Are you sure you got all the air out, I know with the clutch once air is introduce, bleeding the line takes longer then for example bleeding the brakes.
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Old 02-28-2012, 04:08 PM   #6
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You could try a reverse bleed. Using a clean pump type oil can filled with brake fluid connected to the slave bleeder with a piece of plastic tube. Fill the master by pumping until there is a level in the master. Close the bleeder on the slave and top off the master. Takes about 5 minutes and should be air free.
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Old 02-28-2012, 08:29 PM   #7
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Here's something that may be worth a try. When I changed the clutch on an MG Midget I used to have, I just could NOT get the hydraulic system bled. I tried everything, and after running at least a quart of brake fluid through the clutch slave cylinder, I was at my wits end. Another MG owner told me to fill the master cylinder, leave the cover loose, and depress the clutch pedal fully to the floor. After it's depressed, use a length of 2x4, dowel or something of the correct length to hold it fully depressed overnight. Since I had nothing to lose, I tried it and BINGO! No more problems. Since it takes virtually no effort, I'd give it a try, it dang sure worked for me
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:33 AM   #8
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I have done many clutch change outs, and the one time (jeep) i had anything similar to what your talking about is when they sent me the wrong throw out bearing. come to find out the right one was made for a 78 ford f150 thanks advanced adaptors!
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Old 02-29-2012, 01:45 AM   #9
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I had this happen to an old xj I had. I fought it for over 3 months, replacing every component to the clutch system at least twice, till I finally pulled the motor, tranny, tcase, and axles, parted out what I could, sold the big stuff i had pulled and finally scrapped the rest of the jeep... Hopefully you have better luck then I did!
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Old 02-29-2012, 02:54 AM   #10
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x2 You may want to stick a screwdriver in the slave socket though, and make sure you can push the fork manually. If something is jammed in there, the slave won't be able to move it either.

I'd suggest getting a new pre-bled unit off amazon
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Old 03-05-2012, 04:48 AM   #11
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While waiting for my new master/slave unit to show up from rock auto ($99) i decided to tear the tranny out again and realized that i'm an idiot. Brake fluid in the bell housing from the first new slave that blew out and i put WAY too much grease on the input the got all over everything. So a bit of brake cleaner and a few rags later time to throw it back together and see how that works

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