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Old 01-08-2013, 05:51 PM   #1
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Clutch/ transmission problem

My clutch/ transmission has stopped working on me. I have a 2001 wrangler tj 4L. Clutch pedal is stiff and won't engage when engine is on. If I turn off the ignition I can put it in gear freely but when I start the engine in gear the transmission will jump forward and start to move after i try to start it and then it will start making a crackling noise then kick out of gear. The brake/clutch fluid reservoir is full. My buddy says its the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder but I'm not too sure. Need your help/ advice!

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Old 01-08-2013, 05:56 PM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlwmorgan View Post
My clutch/ transmission has stopped working on me. I have a 2001 wrangler tj 4L. Clutch pedal is stiff and won't engage when engine is on. If I turn off the ignition I can put it in gear freely but when I start the engine in gear the transmission will jump forward and start to move after i try to start it and then it will start making a crackling noise then kick out of gear. The brake/clutch fluid reservoir is full. My buddy says its the clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder but I'm not too sure. Need your help/ advice!
I was having some similar problems and it's in the shop now having the master/slave replaced. It was explained to me as the clutch itself is fine but the master/slave is the hydrolic system the works the clutch.

When I get it out of the shop tomorrow I can let ya know if that was the problem and if that fixed it

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Old 01-08-2013, 06:06 PM   #3
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That would help, thanks boss.
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Old 01-08-2013, 07:10 PM   #4
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Sounds somewhat similar to what happened to me a few weeks ago.
Are you able to clutch in at all? or its just stiff? if the pedal doesn't work its a slave cylinder, if you can roughly clutch it in, but it won't let you pull it out of or into a new gear, its the throw out bearing.
For me, it was the second, I could push the pedal down with some work, but couldn't shift while the car was on (could with it off)
New clutch kit with throw out bearing (might as well replace the clutch while you are in there) was about $140 at napa. few bolts broken/lost along the way added $10 or so.
Couldn't tell you how much a slave cylinder is.
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:34 PM   #5
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Ordering a LuK clutch (or is the duralast from autozone/napa pretty much the same as LuK?) fly wheel, master and slave. Just gonna do it all. What kind of transmission fluid do I need? I normally use the mopar oil but I've heard purple royal synchromax is the same. What about transfer case fluid?
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:36 PM   #6
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K.wag tell more about your clutch kit you ordered. How long you've had it in, how many miles you got it so far... Stuff like that
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Old 01-10-2013, 02:56 PM   #7
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I had a very similar issue. Turned out to be the retaining spring on the throw out bearing snapped. I bought the Luk kit off of eBay for about $100, and replaced the master/slave assembly because it got messed up when everything broke loose. I have about 5k on the new clutch now, and it's working great!
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Old 01-10-2013, 07:42 PM   #8
Knows a couple things...

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In response to your PM, the above mechanical advice is about what I'd guess too, I can't really offer any more than than what is above.

Transmission fluid-wise, the Mopar stuff is non-synthetic, better synthetic lubes include Redline MTL, Royal Purple Synchromax, or Amsoil Synchromesh. The transfer case requires ATF, any ATF is fine as it's not fussy like an automatic transmission is... ATF+4 would be a good choice.
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Old 01-11-2013, 12:27 AM   #9
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Do I need to remove my transmission completely or can I sort of just slide it back to fix the replace the clutch?
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Old 01-11-2013, 02:53 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dlwmorgan
Do I need to remove my transmission completely or can I sort of just slide it back to fix the replace the clutch?
You have to remove it.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:25 AM   #11
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K.wag tell more about your clutch kit you ordered. How long you've had it in, how many miles you got it so far... Stuff like that
Um.. i think i have about 500-600 miles on it now and about a month of time. it was just a NAPA brand clutch kit. I just asked for the full kit, not just the clutch, and they knew what i was talking about. Cant know the truth in it, but they say the NAPA brand is the same as OEM, napa just repackages it and sells it under their name. So far so good, I guess if i had any advice, I would have greased up the spindle, all movement parts on the throwout fork, and underneath the throw out bearing a little more. Nothing has said i did anything wrong, just can't go wrong with extra grease. Just keep it away from the clutch and flywheel. dont want to contaminate that. Another thing, don't know if their is any options out there but maybe replace the fork clip thing (holds fork down opposite side of the slave cylinder). It just looks flimsy to me, and I can only imagine what kind of damage it could do if it breaks and the fork is not held in.
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Old 01-12-2013, 12:30 AM   #12
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Do I need to remove my transmission completely or can I sort of just slide it back to fix the replace the clutch?
Read some write ups... Its kind of a little of both. My transmission never left the floor jack and was just slid back, but it also was completely detached (all wiring and bolts) from everything else...

I also found it nice to have 3 or 4 different write ups open when I did it, because every write up seems to focus and detail a different step of the replacement while vaguely talking about other steps. Most of the pictures are spot on too.
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Old 01-31-2013, 11:43 AM   #13
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Thought I would do a follow up and let everyone know the out come and pricing if they ever have the same issue. Turns out it was just my clutch but thought I would replace the flywheel since I was down there. Remember these parts are for a TJ or 1997-2006 Wrangler. Prices could vary for different models. Partsgeek.com has an LuK clutch kit for $93.25 and a Sachs flywheel for $55.25 (only $9.00 total for shipping and took 4 days to deliver). Autozone has 1 qt Castrol ATF+4 for the transfer case at $7.00 each (needs 2) and 1 qt Pennzoil Synchromesh for the transmission at $8.00 each (needs 3). O'Reilly's also had Pennzoil Synchromesh for the same price. The job was pretty simple just time consuming. Only cost me $199.50 with taxes. Took 7 hours to finish with taking breaks and this being my first time with the clutch/transmission. Wish I took pictures but the website shows everything. The websites below is the write up and torque spec I followed.

1997 Jeep TJ Clutch Replacement) and 2003 Jeep Torque Specifications

If a master/slave cylinder is needed, Partsgeek.com also has them. Sachs master cylinder for $45.25 and a Sachs slave cylinder for $39.25
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:33 PM   #14
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I could use some help with a similar problem. I can rev up the engine and I have nothing. The clutch pedal feels fine, but I can shift into any gear without the need to depress the clutch. The shifter still feels normal otherwise and feels like I'm engaging the gears. I thought maybe the master/slave so I replaced it (along with the safety switch since it was pretty worn out) but I've got nothing.

I'm thinking maybe the pressure plate? This was after/during doing a little mudding. After about 30 minutes out I thought I heard a crack or rattle, but everything seemed fine. A little deeper in the woods it felt like I wasn't getting as much power as I should. It actually wasn't until I got back on the highway a few hours later that I knew something was wrong. The power was dropping off significantly and I had a feeling my tranny was going out. More like I was riding the clutch if that makes any sense. I stopped at a gas station ran inside and when I came back out I was stuck in the parking spot. Ended up having to tow it back to the house.

It's a 2006 4.0 with the 6 speed transmission. Any ideas, tips, or pointers would be appreciated. I was looking to replace the tires, but I'm afraid a trip to the transmission shop will scrub those plans for a while. If it's something I can do on my own with a few buddies and some beer sounds much better!
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Old 02-20-2013, 03:54 PM   #15
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I recently did a rebuild of the 6 spd on my 06. BIIIG learning curve as it is a Mercedes Benz tranny. Got it done w/ Luk clutch set up and had fly wheel resurfaced. I have heard to not resurface the flywheel as it has a specific shape but have had no problems. Tore up slave cylinder in process so just replaced that. I had time so while replacing rear main which lead to clutch demise I just tore the whole thing apart. I am running Amsoil synthetic which works well.

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