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Old 07-24-2012, 10:06 PM   #1
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Cold Air Intake?

Thinking about putting a cold air intake on my 2000 Wrangler. Will I get a noticeable change on mpg or horsepower? If I get it, will it hydro-lock the engine if water gets in it? I'm pretty new to the whole after market things. I'm only 16, this is my first car. So not experienced!

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:10 PM   #2
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Spend money on other things, the airflow into the I6 presuming that is what you have is more than adequate.

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Old 07-24-2012, 10:19 PM   #3
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If you want MPG, then buy a Honda. If you want HP, then buy a Corvette... Take your money and go buy some body armor and go play in the mud.
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:32 PM   #4
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The stock horn is the best intake for any type of offroading
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Old 07-24-2012, 10:35 PM   #5
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Ok, geez. I get it. It was just a idea from a family friend. I just wanted to ask. Thanks!
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:44 PM   #6
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Don't worry. This is a very common question on the forum so sometimes people just jump all over it. An intake system does work on some vehicle, but the Wrangler is designed pretty efficiently and it will not give you any increase in HP or improved gas mileage. Welcome to the forum.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:48 PM   #7
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Some people are also wrong on the forum. I put one on mine. Gained 3mpg and 5 horsepower. Not much. But mpg was awesome. 4cyl. It's your jeep. Not theirs.
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Old 07-24-2012, 11:56 PM   #8
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I bought my Jeep with one. I'm wanting to take it off and get a stock intake system. If anything get a K&N drop in. And don't take what everyones to heart. The guy does have a point. Want MPG get a Honda. Want power get a Corvette lol.
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Old 07-25-2012, 08:53 AM   #9
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The way I see it, it can't hurt anything. Alot of folks will say "oh don't do that it's a waist of money, buy something that matters". Keep in mind these are the same guys that put rock sliders on there jeeps but only play in the mud or they buy clear blinkers or led lights. These bolt ons add power once you start stacking them. An intake, exhaust, headers, and a tuner. They can't say no increase in horses. It's inevitable.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:24 AM   #10
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Intakes provide nearly 0 hp unless you can substantially drop the IATs as with a cowl intake. I ran all kinds of tests on my dyno.
Jeep Wrangler 18 dyno pulls for CAI testing - Trick Tuners Forums
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:31 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TBrownSTL View Post
Some people are also wrong on the forum. I put one on mine. Gained 3mpg and 5 horsepower.
First, how did you calculate you gained precisely 5 hp. Not even a dyno can come up with such a precise number like that due to too many variables. And on the 3 mpg, that is HIGHLY unlikely with the way a CAI works. If it were that easy to obtain 3 mpg, and it's not, the factory would be ALL OVER doing CAIs because the EPA is all over the manufacturers to get better CAFE MPG averages and 3 mpg would just be an AMAZING boost to mpg.

For any simple modification to give a 3 mpg boost would be like Detroit having found the Holy Grail... and a CAI isn't the Holy Grail.

If someone were to ask my personal opinion about if anyone could truly get 5 HP (not 4, not 6, but 5) and 3 MPG gains from having done nothing more than installed a so-called CAI system, I'd say they had succumbed to the almighty placebo effect.

SkylarP, my best advice is to do what others already said... put your hard-earned $$$ into other mods that actually do something worthwhile and are actually worth the $$$... because a CAI is not.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:37 AM   #12
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I have one for sale if you would like it....I'm going with the stock set-up. PM me if you would like it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:22 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AFGUY1980
The way I see it, it can't hurt anything. Alot of folks will say "oh don't do that it's a waist of money, buy something that matters". Keep in mind these are the same guys that put rock sliders on there jeeps but only play in the mud or they buy clear blinkers or led lights. These bolt ons add power once you start stacking them. An intake, exhaust, headers, and a tuner. They can't say no increase in horses. It's inevitable.
Lol led's and clear blinkers are for looks not performance and their cheaper then a cold air. Your Comparing apples to oranges here.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:13 AM   #14
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My friend with his wanna-be racecar hounded me to death to get a Cold Air Intake. Saying "Ohhh, you'll get more HP, MPG and go faster, blah blah blah!"

Decided, I got money, why not. Installed it, and can hardly feel the difference, even if there is a slight one. Engine feels a little better, just a little bit. In my opinion, don't waste money trying to improve gas milage, it hasnt improved much on mine, and the money saved not even close to the price I paid.

But what was said before, a Air Intake is for wanna-be-racecar drivers. Go play in the mud. My friend doesnt understand why I leave mud on my jeep instead of washing it off, he is clearly not the guy to go to for advice on a Off-Road vehicle.
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Old 07-25-2012, 11:45 AM   #15
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Don't put in a k&n filter as they do not filter well. I am on the phone so I can not go into detail, but search on it.
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Old 07-25-2012, 01:46 PM   #16
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Anything that decreases the resistance of the air going into the intake is a good thing. More air = better. Dont agree? Then go tell that to the folks that invented ram air, turbo chargers, and super chargers. They have one purpose and one only, to get more air into the intake to aid in combustion. While these K&N jobs only decrease resistance so the engine does not have to work as hard to inhale the air, there is a benefit, and anyone on here that tells you otherwise has no clue to proper operation of the internal combustion engine.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:15 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by Falcho View Post
Anything that decreases the resistance of the air going into the intake is a good thing. More air = better. Dont agree? Then go tell that to the folks that invented ram air, turbo chargers, and super chargers. They have one purpose and one only, to get more air into the intake to aid in combustion. While these K&N jobs only decrease resistance so the engine does not have to work as hard to inhale the air, there is a benefit, and anyone on here that tells you otherwise has no clue to proper operation of the internal combustion engine.
Another automotive engineer heard from. You should work fror Chrysler they need to improve the mpg's in the wranglers to sell more of them.

Or K&N to sell more CAI's.
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Old 07-25-2012, 02:16 PM   #18
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Anything that decreases the resistance of the air going into the intake is a good thing. More air = better. Dont agree? Then go tell that to the folks that invented ram air, turbo chargers, and super chargers. They have one purpose and one only, to get more air into the intake to aid in combustion. While these K&N jobs only decrease resistance so the engine does not have to work as hard to inhale the air, there is a benefit, and anyone on here that tells you otherwise has no clue to proper operation of the internal combustion engine.
Turbo and superchargers increase the volume of air/fuel, effectively giving the engine a larger displacement. The amount of air a naturally aspirated engine uses is determined by bore x stroke. Nothing short of pressurizing the incoming air/fuel will increase that. If the stock airbox flows adequate CFM, a "cold air" intake won't help. Also, there's no way around it: a freer flowing air filter means less filtration.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:04 PM   #19
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First, how did you calculate you gained precisely 5 hp. Not even a dyno can come up with such a precise number like that due to too many variables.
Yes is can. I show a max difference of 2.56hp on 5 pulls. 5hp can easily be measured, especially at these power levels.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:10 PM   #20
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Amen Jerry, at 16 there are more important things to waste money on. Yes there is an improvement but its so marginal that its not important, the next beer is.
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Old 07-25-2012, 03:29 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Falcho View Post
Anything that decreases the resistance of the air going into the intake is a good thing. More air = better. Dont agree? Then go tell that to the folks that invented ram air, turbo chargers, and super chargers. They have one purpose and one only, to get more air into the intake to aid in combustion. While these K&N jobs only decrease resistance so the engine does not have to work as hard to inhale the air, there is a benefit, and anyone on here that tells you otherwise has no clue to proper operation of the internal combustion engine.
I said do not get a K&N because it does not filter as well as a standard filter. My oil analysis says so and so does the inside of the tube as it had fine dust inside when I ran a K&N.
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Old 07-25-2012, 09:52 PM   #22
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Thanks guys, I think I'll just avoid the CAI. I think I will just enjoy what I have for right now. Or at least until something that will affect my enjoyment catches my eye!
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Old 07-25-2012, 10:12 PM   #23
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Yes is can. I show a max difference of 2.56hp on 5 pulls. 5hp can easily be measured, especially at these power levels.
Even without the CAI your pulls would vary by as much as 5%...that's why he said gain from a CAI on these motors isn't measurable. For all we know the weather could've changed in the time you made the base run and then installed the CAI. It would be more accurate if you made several base runs and several modded runs then averaged the two to find the true gain. Either way the performance to price gain isn't worth it IMO. Now when I put a lid ($90) and did the FRA mod to my camaro and saw close to a 15rwhp gain that was worth it.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:13 AM   #24
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It would be more accurate if you made several base runs and several modded runs then averaged the two to find the true gain.
That's what I did. I even calculated the 3SD range
[code]
Condition Avg HP Avg TQ 3SD HP 3SD TQ
stock 140.92 177.49 2.79 3.68
No Horn 142.12 176.69 3.73 6.06
Tire pressure 146.96 181.20 2.07 10.54
No Intake 151.72 183.12 2.46 5.54
Cowl Intake 149.32 185.71 5.57 5.75[/code]
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:33 AM   #25
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The bottom line with dynometers is they aren't 100% accurate, their results can vary from run to run, and with some, their results can even be manipulated by the operator.

Like any piece of test equipment, dynometers have accuracy tolerances, are even affected by things like the atmospheric pressure at the time of the test, and many (though not all) dynometers can be manipulated by the operator to produce any result desired. For example; if you want to show a 5 HP gain from a new product, you can use a dynometer that can be manipulated by an operator with a stake in the outcome to show that claimed gain.
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Old 07-26-2012, 09:44 PM   #26
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DONT WAST YOUR TIME!!!!! it dus nothing but give you a little look under the hood. and if you are going to put one on the more air that you put in your engien the faster you have to get it out wich means a new muffler and cst but if you just whont the looks get on on ebay or something
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Old 07-27-2012, 09:33 AM   #27
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The bottom line with dynometers is they aren't 100% accurate, their results can vary from run to run, and with some, their results can even be manipulated by the operator.

Like any piece of test equipment, dynometers have accuracy tolerances, are even affected by things like the atmospheric pressure at the time of the test, and many (though not all) dynometers can be manipulated by the operator to produce any result desired. For example; if you want to show a 5 HP gain from a new product, you can use a dynometer that can be manipulated by an operator with a stake in the outcome to show that claimed gain.
Not quite. The dyno itself is very accurate. I've had cars that overlaid plots within 1-2 hp for the entire run over 3 or more runs. Its not the dyno that is affected by weather conditions, its the engine. That's why there is SAE adjustments developed by the society of automotive engineers to standardize temperature, barometric pressure, and humidity. The dynojet type of dyno cannot be adjusted by the operator to show differences in hp. Some other types like the mustang dyno can be adjusted. There are 100s of ways a dyno operator can cheat the test. Stops under the gas pedal, do runs until heat soak kicks in and use that as the base, etc, not to mention tuning changes like running less timing and a richer or leaner AFR (while not including the AFR on the dyno plots). But yeah, its not hard to have a product show gains, and most vendors dyno results should be treated with skepticism. I made this plot to show the gains from a CAI on a jeep, but if you read my report you will know that this is not accurate.
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Old 07-27-2012, 10:35 AM   #28
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I guess I need one to save all this:

If Gas Cost $3.50@ gal
You MPG is 19
Your Cost @Mile $0.184

If Gas Cost $3.50@ gal
You MPG is Now 22 w/CAI
Your Cost @Mile $0.159

Saving @ Mile $0.025

The CAI Costs $400.00
Your Savings @0.025
# miles to Drive to Recover $400 16,000 Miles

Make Sense????
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Old 07-27-2012, 12:24 PM   #29
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It's obvious here on this forum "What you're not up on, you're down on!"

Good, finely calibrated Dyno's do work very well and are dependable data for a trained professional. Lets tell NASCAR (or any other professional organization) dyno inspections are BS!

Yes, I'll agree that a TJ is not in the same league as say a Camero or a Mustang, so be logical and don't try to make a TJ what it's not (a speed and black-top racer).
Most Jeeps are modified towards a negative outcome for fuel efficiency So going in that direction you cannot expect much from a single modification.
Lets not forget that 1or 2% gain on just one system component is not readily quantifiable on Low HP and Tq engines and on a computer controlled engine other modifications are required.
A tremendous amount of research on CAI almost always require other complimentary modifications to see an overall gain. Greater intake volume almost always require greater exhaust volume and on computer controlled engines special tuning and fuel trim is a must.

I would like to address those here that like to hang on the belief that "If a modification is that good the manufactures would do it"
There are certain under hood and cabin decibel requirements that all manufactures must abide by for SAE mandates. Factory induction systems have limits as do exhaust systems, Fan noise and even valve cover composition have max decibel requirements. What works best in manufacturing for cost and assembly doesn't mean there's no room for improvements. And last but not least, every automotive manufacture builds their cars and trucks with regard to the "After-market world in mind during any stage in development. Chevrolet, Ford and even Jeep sell greatly on how well the after-market can bring their products to a new level. Ask yourself how performance products are so amazingly available for production even before the first car is off the assembly line.
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Old 07-27-2012, 01:27 PM   #30
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It's easy enough to try it.
Simply remove the plastic tube to the restrictive stock air filter/silencer box and put a put a filter on the end.
It will get rid of the stock restriction.

Then get remote thermometer - measure the underhood air temp and compare it with outside air. There's very little difference if your fan and cooling system is working properly. MAYBE you'll see a 5 degree difference when moving. At idle it gets warmer, but you don't need or use more power to idle.

Snorkels, cowl induction etc only add restriction - too much ducting.

It's not rocket science, expensive, or difficult to try it ON YOUR OWN VEHICLE.

Internet fools only talk about it but never try it! You don't have to but all the expensive and elaborate stuff to try it!

K&N'S don't pass any more dirt than other filters - but some folks don't bother to seal them properly.

The main complaint is they get dirty too fast - isn't that the purpose of a filter - to catch the dirt?'

Wet filters have proven for years to filter better than wrinkled up paper. They just aren't quite as convenient - they take a little thought.
Do they use paper for kidney dialysis?

5% gain is still 5% gain - no matter how you measure it!

Get some guts - try it on yours! If you dare!

BTW - A properly set up dyno system compensates for air temp and pressure, eliminating the variables. Back to back tests also negate the variables. I used to own 2 shops with chassis dynos, - one was strictly High Performance work. And I've and have spent many hours on engine dynos.

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