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Correct spots for drain holes underneath frame

7K views 5 replies 5 participants last post by  SolarColumbia 
#1 ·
Hi, the PO had drilled drain holes on the end of each corner on the bottom, or they are stock. They work good for getting the crap out of the frame. But, since I am now doing more mudding and almost daily drive on the beach, I am spending more and more time cleaning under the jeep. No matter how I clean the inside of the frame, on incline or not, I can not get all the sand/rocks out that are sitting on the bottom of the frame. Can I drill in some spots on the bottom of the frame in the middle area to get the sand out. Maybe back it up on an incline and have a hole on each side on the lowest spot. Thanks
 
#4 ·
I drilled mine in the same spot, by the LCA mounts. I have 4 drain holes but I went a little smaller. I figure I can always open them up a bit. I don't plan on mudding after doing my frame swap but it will be nice to hose any dirt and salt out of it!

-Ryan
 
#5 ·
Thanks guys. I figured I ask before I do. It seems like no matter how I postition the pressure washer or hose, there is still sand/crap sitting on the bottom trapping water also. I would like to be able to just do a quick pressure wash and then just put a hose in and drain it for a little
 
#6 ·
It can be difficult to get the larger rust particles out of the frame. Some of them are the size of corn flakes. When you run water through there it will wash the debris to the point where the water flows out the easiest, which is at the large, oblong holes on the outside of each rail, one near the front and one nearer the back. You can stick a finger in there and feel the pile of rust. Once dry I ended up using a magnetic retrieval tool to pull out the pieces. I had tried vacuuming it out but couldn't get the larger pieces out through the small hose that would fit in there. It took forever to get it out, a little at a time with the magnet, but I got as much out as I could. I used one of those inexpensive tools with a magnet on a flexible stalk, but hacksawed some of the plastic away from the magnet to expose more of it. Even if you can't get it all out, you will eliminate any big piles of crap in one spot. I had also drilled 1/2" holes just behind the skid, one on each side. I was able to wash out a lot of powdery size rust from those. Once dry I did the Eastwood Internal Frame Coating, 3 cans total, paying particular attention to the lower sections in the middle of each rail, and also painted the outside of frame with Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. Then I sealed over all the holes on sides and bottom with the frame plugs on the 4 large round ones and Shoe Goo on the others. I only left open the two drain holes I had drilled so any water that would get in could drain out, and the two round ones in the back opposite the ones I put the caps in. Those two were pretty much impossible to get at as they are inside a bracket, and it seemed pretty unlikely anything could really get in there, anyway.
 
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