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Old 09-13-2013, 06:41 PM   #1
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CPS final word

Okay, I'm going to attempt to replace my crank position sensor this weekend in an effort to solve my "engine shuts off while idling" issue. Please refer to previous posts if you are curious as to what I've already replaced. :-) As far as actually replacing the CPS goes, should I expect a 3 hour ordeal that will leave me frustrated and bloody knuckles, or do I believe some of the other forum posts that make is sound like it takes 20 minutes to change this thing out? Several posts indicate that I would be time ahead if I drop the transmission mount and tackle it from beneath? Looking down from the engine bay, it almost looks like I could use a low profile socket, uv joint and a short extension and get the bolt out. Yet another thread said that they used the "hole in the drivers compartment" and it was easy to reach the bolt. Huh? If Jeep would have just put the bolt in the other way, this would be a 5 minute project.

Thoughts, which threads should I follow? This is for a 2000 TJ 4.0.

Pieter

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Old 09-14-2013, 12:01 PM   #2
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Update, it only takes about 20 mins to swap out a CPS on a 2000 Wrangler 4.0. However, it did not solve my problem. Curious, the CPS that I replaced still had the paper gasket on the end. I put in a new one, started it up and it died 2 minutes later. I pulled the new sensor out and it still had the paper gasket on it as well. I pulled the gasket off and reinserted the sensor, started up and it died in 2 minutes. I'm beginning to think that I do not have a sensor problem. I've checked most of the vacuum lines that I know about. Fuel pressure? Fuel pump? I'm really really REALLY hoping its not a short in the wiring harness somewhere......

Pieter

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Old 09-14-2013, 03:25 PM   #3
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Well, I'm not thinking it is fuel pump. I stuck a gauge on fuel rail, rock steady at 50 psi right up until it dies, then maintains about 40-45 psi until I relieved the pressure.

Grumble grumble grumble.

Pieter
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:06 PM   #4
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Ever feel like your talking to yourself? I do sometimes, :-). Okay, so now I'm moving onto the cam position sensor. While looking at it, I noticed this:

See the white wire? Is looks kinked pretty good and the wire in the middle seems to have what looks like insulation missing. Could either of these cause intermittent stalling of the engine? How do you replace a harness connector? Cut it and use butt joint connectors with heat wrap?

Thoughts, anyone?

Pieter
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:33 PM   #5
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It's not you, it's the forum. Few people reply.
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:46 PM   #6
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I think you're alright as far as the connector goes.
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:47 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CowboySnR View Post
It's not you, it's the forum. Few people reply.
Which is odd because the first 5 or 6 posts I made here got decent responses. Of course those were opinion questions, not troubleshooting items. Well , at least maybe someone will get info from my expierences.

Pieter
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Old 09-14-2013, 04:56 PM   #8
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I got nothing man...sorry... Most people are watching football today
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Old 09-14-2013, 09:58 PM   #9
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Do you have a chipped security ignition key? If you do, and the key or the transponder is defective, this might be your problem.

Phil
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Old 09-15-2013, 10:36 AM   #10
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I don't think I have a chipped key, they look just like normal keys, no thick FOB things attached to the key. The spare key is just a simple thin metal key.
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Old 10-10-2014, 09:54 AM   #11
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ever figure it out? desperate to figure this out for my same issues
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:30 AM   #12
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Do you have a check engine light on? Any codes? Typically a broken sensor wire/defective sensor will throw a code.
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Old 10-10-2014, 10:53 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Water Dog View Post
Do you have a check engine light on? Any codes? Typically a broken sensor wire/defective sensor will throw a code.

I have my own thread going but im running out of things to try and replace so im digging up some older similar threads hoping someone posted a solution.

No CEL light, no codes
replaced cam and crank(2 of them) sensor, ignition coil, cap, rotor, plugs, temp sensor, PCM. TPS and o2 sensors done in last year as well as batt and alt. fuel pump was done 2 years ago. It dies on me after running for about 10 minutes and it wont start till next day. When running, all gauges work, when it dies and i turn the key to off and back to ON, my volt meter and gas meter dont move and read nothing.

all fuses and relays checked. All good. Checked grounds

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