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Old 02-10-2013, 10:24 AM   #1
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currie adjustable rear upper control arms

there is 2 options on the website, aluminum or steel, what is the advantage from one to the other

i would think the aluminum ones would be very strong in this application

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Old 02-10-2013, 11:29 AM   #2
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wouldn't*

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Old 02-10-2013, 11:30 AM   #3
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and there made by savvy not currie but have johnny joints
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Old 02-10-2013, 11:38 AM   #4
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Personally I would just go for the steel arms. I'm a big believer in aluminum and have lots of aluminum armor from Savvy on my TJ but for control arms, I'd go steel. The benefit to Savvy's aluminum arms is they are easier to adjust but to me, that's a minor convenience.
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Old 02-10-2013, 12:47 PM   #5
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Personally I would just go for the steel arms. I'm a big believer in aluminum and have lots of aluminum armor from Savvy on my TJ but for control arms, I'd go steel. The benefit to Savvy's aluminum arms is they are easier to adjust but to me, that's a minor convenience.
It depends on upper/lower rear/front, but the savvy alum rear uppers are actually cheaper than the currie steel rear uppers. For the the complete set of arms, the savvy arms are 45$ more than currie.

OP, as far as strength aluminum isn't an issue.
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Old 02-10-2013, 01:13 PM   #6
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
Personally I would just go for the steel arms. I'm a big believer in aluminum and have lots of aluminum armor from Savvy on my TJ but for control arms, I'd go steel. The benefit to Savvy's aluminum arms is they are easier to adjust but to me, that's a minor convenience.
+1. I have the aluminum arms and they can be a PITA to get tightened and keep tightened. With steel, I could have tack welded the jam nuts once they were set. I'm thinking of using red loctight so I won't have to worry quite so much.
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Old 02-10-2013, 02:01 PM   #7
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If I remember correctly some people had issues with the steel single adjustable upper rears being long enough where the aluminum Savvy uppers are Dble adjustable and was said to be able to be made longer. I have 3 sets of Savvy aluminum arms and one set of Currie steel arms ( all with metalcloak Duroflex joints installed ) and have never had a jam nut come loose on any and I don't use loctite . They are big nuts , use a couple of big wrenches at the same time . If no others I would recommend the Dble adj upper rears to be safe with the length issue some have had with the single end adj curries.
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Old 02-10-2013, 03:12 PM   #8
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They are big nuts , use a couple of big wrenches at the same time .
That may be my problem. I only have one wrench big enough to fit.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:34 AM   #9
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That may be my problem. I only have one wrench big enough to fit.
Then the problem is definitely user error. I've had mine since they came out, and I've yet to have a jamb nut loosen.
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Old 02-11-2013, 07:36 AM   #10
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Jam nuts will not loosen if you torque them correctly. Correct = as tight as you possibly can before ripping your shoulders out of the socket.
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Old 02-11-2013, 08:50 AM   #11
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Related question: Installing SYE soon. If I get adjustable uppers now to set pinnion angle then install adjustable lowers later to center dif, will it warrant new ds to be re-sized? Trying to stay on budget but if it will cost me more in the long run I'll rob $ from another upgrade project. The Sye and tcase drop removal is first priority. Thanks
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:09 AM   #12
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No, any decent drive shaft will have at least 4" of slip section. Most are in the 6" range. And considering you're not running a bunch of travel, you won't use even close to all of that slip. Maybe 1" from ride height to full bump and maybe 1.5" from ride height to full droop....at most. So you've got a huge margin there as long as the slip is somewhere around 40-60% exposed at ride height.
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Old 02-11-2013, 09:49 AM   #13
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^^^^Great! Thanks again.
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Old 02-12-2013, 07:31 AM   #14
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I ordered the steel ones my only complaint is there is no tabs for the ebrake cable but can be easily welded on with the steel, i will post pics when installed,

My other concern is the poping noise that drove me to buy these $300+... Is now gone after a weekend of wheeling :-\

I guess its not a total loss though because they are replacing rough country control arms
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:27 AM   #15
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Zip ties are holding my lines just fine...in fact I can't think of an aftermarket arm that has those tabs for the e-brake on them.
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Old 02-12-2013, 09:33 AM   #16
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Cut the tab off so you're left with a bare line, that way it won't clunk against the arm. A couple zip ties will keep the line located and as long as you don't cinch them down too tight, will allow it to move. You don't need a secure clamp for that line.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:13 AM   #17
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That may be my problem. I only have one wrench big enough to fit.
That is all you need. Find the directing you need to turn the jam nut to tighten. Reach in the brackets and pry the joints so they jam against the inside of the brackets the same direction.

Hold the arm with one hand and carefully tighten the jam nut until the arm starts to turn then stop. Do the other end the same way and keep going back and forth and the arm will eventually get to the point where it won't turn any more. At that point, get both hands and or a cheater on the wrench and heave on it. The control arm brackets will act as a vise and both joints will be lined up for maximum misalignment and they will not ever come loose doing it this way.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:44 AM   #18
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I can't think of an aftermarket arm that has those tabs for the e-brake on them.
Well, the Rusty's arms do. Just sayin'.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:47 AM   #19
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I have Savvy aluminum lowers on mine, and tightened them pretty much as Blaine described, and have actually put a wrench on them to see if the nuts were still tight after 4 or 5000 miles, and several trail runs. They were tight enough that I didn't bother grabbing the cheater wrench to see just exactly how tight they were. I use a slightly modified fan clutch wrench that is now a desigated control arm jam nut wrench.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:48 AM   #20
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Well, the Rusty's arms do. Just sayin'.
It's also nothing that can't be fixed with a cushion clamp around the arm or a decent size zip tie.

I peel the brackets open and remove them before I clamp them to the upper arms.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:51 AM   #21
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It's also nothing that can't be fixed with a cushion clamp around the arm or a decent size zip tie.

I peel the brackets open and remove them before I clamp them to the upper arms.

Like I said, just sayin'. It's definitely not selling point.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:52 AM   #22
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An Adel clamp would work admirably.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #23
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I wish my adjustable uppers had some tab w/ clamps on it to attach the e-brake cable. I've been thinking of making one for some time...just never got around to it yet. I've got a hoss of a zip tie on there now and it slides around scratches the hell out of the arms. One deteriorated & broke due to weather. It's one of those nuance things that really irritates/annoys us detail oriented folks.
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Old 02-12-2013, 10:57 AM   #24
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I wish my adjustable uppers had some tab w/ clamps on it to attach the e-brake cable. I've been thinking of making one for some time...just never got around to it yet. I've got a haws of a zip tie on there now and it slides around scratches the hell out of the arms. It's one of those nuance things that really irritates/annoys us OCD folks.

Rubber lined Adel clamp might do the trick.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:01 AM   #25
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Rubber lined Adel clamp might do the trick.
yea, i'll see if I can find something in that large of diameter...if i can remember next time i go to the nearest hardware store. the hardware store that I know will have it is an hour away, so that trip is hard to justify for a $5 clamp.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:05 AM   #26
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Might check McMaster Carr. I always look through my junk before I order and usually come up with enough stuff to order to make it worth while. Self-justification ya know. My last order (last week) was 50 SS 10/32 screws, nyloks, and fender washers. Shipping was right at 5 bucks on UPS, which I thought was more than fair.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:10 AM   #27
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Well, the Rusty's arms do. Just sayin'.
Well I meant an arm worth a shit. Just sayin.
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Old 02-12-2013, 11:17 AM   #28
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Well I meant an arm worth a shit. Just sayin.

I realize that. That's why I was "just saying".
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:25 PM   #29
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An Adel clamp would work admirably.
Yes it would, but not many folks know cushion clamps by their correct name.
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Old 02-12-2013, 02:27 PM   #30
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yea, i'll see if I can find something in that large of diameter...if i can remember next time i go to the nearest hardware store. the hardware store that I know will have it is an hour away, so that trip is hard to justify for a $5 clamp.
Fox shocks use 2" Adel clamps when you mount the reservoirs to firewalls, so they do readily go to that size.

Go to Del City and see what they have. I use a lot of Adel clamps from them and they have a lot of sizes.

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