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Old 02-26-2012, 01:52 AM   #1
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Currie Antirock, tell me my idea is dumb...

Hey everybody,

As per my other post(s), I am running 34.4" tires and they are currently contacting my swaybar at full lock. I would like to resolve this issue so that I can keep my nice tight turning radius. Thus I need a swaybar that really hugs the frame.

I have looked at the Currie unit and it would be perfect for me except the fact that it is going to give me much less anti-roll than the factory unit. I would really like to stay near factory performance if at all possible.

So my question is this:

Normally the currie bar is mounted through the tube at the very front of the frame. What if I were to find a mounting location somewhat closer to the axle and then drill my own holes on the swaybar arms so that they are close to 1/2 as long as they are now. This would significantly reduce the amount of flex that the antirock affords.

I don't really see any reason as to why this wouldnt work, unless the torsion rod is not capable of handling the additional stress I would be putting on it. Anyone have any comments? I would really like to do this, I think it would turn out pretty well

P.S. - if at all possible, i'd really rather not have comments to the effect of "just run it like they intend, you'll be fine". They put a warning right in the product description that on-road performance WILL NOT be as good as the factory sway bar. I can't imagine that they would add that in there unless there was a significant decrease in on-road performance.

Any input?? Thanks a bunch guys!

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Old 02-26-2012, 02:39 AM   #2
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Yes, I would have to go with your title. It's the width of your tires that matter not the height. Why not get wheels with correct back spacing for the tire, wheel spacers, narrower tires, or add a washer to the steering stop?


AntiRock is a great set-up if you decide you want to upgrade your Jeep.

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Old 02-26-2012, 03:09 AM   #3
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Yes, I would have to go with your title. It's the width of your tires that matter not the height. Why not get wheels with correct back spacing for the tire, wheel spacers, narrower tires, or add a washer to the steering stop?


AntiRock is a great set-up if you decide you want to upgrade your Jeep.
I think you kind of missed my point. My backspacing is correct, the rims I have are made specifically for the TJ. My discussion was not about moving my tires at all... I am trying to figure out how to get a near-stock swaybar stiffness out of the currie unit.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:56 AM   #4
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If it were me...I would avoid modifying the Currie unit. For one, I'm not an engineer and may overlook some key issues which obviously you're trying to address...but you may not have a single engineer respond to this thread meaning EVERY response could overlook some key issues. Secondly, if the modifications don't work...you just screwed up the Currie setup and depending on how badly you screwed it up, you may have just thrown all that cash in the garbage.

What I would do is either replace my wheels with some that have less backspacing (I'm not personally a fan of spacers regardless of how safe they are but that could be another option). Yes, I understand your wheels are designed specifically for the TJ, but you're running oversize tires which makes that lose all relevance now.

With a wider stance, your tires may stick out beyond the fender flares...which depending on your laws could require you to replace them, but aside from that it won't affect your turning radius and may actually IMPROVE your factory ride. I know when I swapped my wheels and tires from stock wheels and 31x10.5 tires to Soft 8's with less backspacing and 33x12.5" tires my Jeep went from being almost scary at 75mph to quite comfortable. It just felt much more stable at highway speeds...which is surprising since so many people warned me when I bought the lift that I was gonna hate how it rode. They were waaay off.

My $.02.
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Old 02-26-2012, 04:18 AM   #5
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If you are looking for tunability in your sway control system, you should look into the JKS Switchblade system. I am not a fan of the price, but it does seem to be what you are asking about.

If you want to keep your tires of choice from rubbing on your swaybar, then you really need to change your backspacing... Just like s3nt3nc3d said so eloquently!
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Old 02-26-2012, 05:26 AM   #6
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I used the currie antirock on a TJ with a 4in lift. I placed the swaybar link in the most foward hole on the arm, the ride wasnt much different than stock.
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Old 02-26-2012, 07:51 AM   #7
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Yeah, i had the Currie on my black Jeep...it is adjustable from near stock performance to almost disconnected performance. 3 or 4 holes if i remember correctly. I would avoid trying to modify its original design or placement. Thats just me though.
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Old 02-26-2012, 09:55 AM   #8
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He already has wheels with 3.6" of BS, just a low lift (no lift). This is another option but I'm not sure if the clearance is any better.

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Old 02-26-2012, 10:01 AM   #9
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I have looked at the Currie unit and it would be perfect for me except the fact that it is going to give me much less anti-roll than the factory unit.
You're overly worried about that. With the right shocks, you can set the Currie to its loosest setting as mine is set at and still have a tight handling TJ. Only with sloppy soft shocks will you have extra roll that you may not be happy with.

Even though I am constantly driving tight twisty roads through our local mountains, my TJ handles like it is on rails... OME Nitrocharger shocks and the Currie set on its loosest setting.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:04 AM   #10
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:07 AM   #11
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Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford
You're overly worried about that. With the right shocks, you can set the Currie to its loosest setting as mine is set at and still have a tight handling TJ. Only with sloppy soft shocks will you have extra roll that you may not be happy with.

Even though I am constantly driving tight twisty roads through our local mountains, my TJ handles like it is on rails... OME Nitrocharger shocks and the Currie set on its loosest setting.
I just received my Antirock and Currectlync from Savvy.

I remember a thread a while back were an engineering students did some interesting calculations on the Antirock. You don't by chance have it linked?
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:10 AM   #12
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I remember a thread a while back were an engineering students did some interesting calculations on the Antirock. You don't by chance have it linked?
I remember that thread and it was interesting but I neglected to bookmark it.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:14 AM   #13
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I want help to fix a simple problem but I don't want to use anyone's advice.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:19 AM   #14
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To the original poster: Your idea is dumb.

That's harsh, but it's what you asked for. I've been running an Antirock for several months and love it. But I often drove my TJ with the stock anti sway bar disconnected entirely. So the minimal amount of extra body roll with the Antirock doesn't bother me at all. When you start modifying a vehicle in ways that were not concerns in it's original design you have to be willing to make compromises.

Put washers behind your steering stops, or put smaller tires on your Jeep, or let it rub your stock sway bar, or run the Antirock and be happy with slightly more body roll on the street, and never having to disconnect again. Or do whatever you want to do and live with the results.

YMMV.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:33 AM   #15
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Ran trails yesterday with two jeeps that had a currie antirock installed. I picked their brains cause I like the idea of not having to disconnect. One was a trail buggy the other a daily driver. From what I learned, the difference from the stock swaybar is barely noticeable. Btw, if currie made it the way they did there must be a reason, modify at your own risk!
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:40 AM   #16
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Benderff, good to see you here!!
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:46 AM   #17
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To the original poster: Your idea is dumb.
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Old 02-26-2012, 10:59 AM   #18
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I think you kind of missed my point. My backspacing is correct, the rims I have are made specifically for the TJ. My discussion was not about moving my tires at all... I am trying to figure out how to get a near-stock swaybar stiffness out of the currie unit.
If your tires are rubbing at full turn, your backspacing is not correct for the width of tire you are running. If you ever air down your tires for off road use they will rub even worse.

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Benderff, good to see you here!!
Thanks! I really didn't need another forum to waste time on . I need to send you a PM about some runs coming up this summer.

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I want help to fix a simple problem but I don't want to use anyone's advice.
You speak the truth.
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Old 02-26-2012, 11:15 AM   #19
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Well this forum needs your help as you can tell.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:34 PM   #20
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I remember that thread and it was interesting but I neglected to bookmark it.
Anybody have a link to this? Id be very interested in this data. Id search right now but I'm on phone and its painfully slow.
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Old 02-26-2012, 01:53 PM   #21
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I think the guys just doesn't want to rub his sway bar since he is at stock height. Can anyone measure tue distance from the frame to the furthest out point on tw anti rock so he can compare to his sway bar now.

Otherwise I would say new wheels is the best answer here.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:12 PM   #22
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I think this may be the link...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/anti...son-93309.html

As a fellow engineer, great write-up! Pay particular attention to the assumptions made, especially equilibrium. Usually up travel and down travel are not equal........

After further evaluation, I'm not sure The magnitude of the rotational displacement in the torsion bar itself is taken into account. Based on the displacement (rotational), his assessment is absolutely correct. That is the rate of anti-rotation changes exponentially once either side hits a bumpstop, but I would expect that is what Currie would design it to do. Life is good....
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:21 PM   #23
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I think this may be the link...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/anti...son-93309.html

As a fellow engineer, great write-up! Pay particular attention to the assumptions made. Usually up travel and down travel are not equal........
Awesome write up and makes sense.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:47 PM   #24
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I think the guys just doesn't want to rub his sway bar since he is at stock height. Can anyone measure tue distance from the frame to the furthest out point on tw anti rock so he can compare to his sway bar now.

Otherwise I would say new wheels is the best answer here.
Thanks, that would be helpful. It seems as though people around here are fairly quick to attack the person, not the problem. I'd post more on it (maybe I will later) but for now i'm going to work on the jeep.
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Old 02-26-2012, 02:53 PM   #25
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Thanks, that would be helpful. It seems as though people around here are fairly quick to attack the person, not the problem. I'd post more on it (maybe I will later) but for now i'm going to work on the jeep.
They all mean well. There are a lot of people on here who are stubborn and some members treat everyone that way. Personally I don't think the antirock will work if it was modified the way you said. I bet it does hug the frame better. And I have also heard that its rate is very close to stock so. I'd look into the widths and if that doesn't help you I would look into just slightly less backpacking.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:37 PM   #26
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From a spacing issue, I know the antirock would give me enough clearance. As it is right now its close even with the stock bar. I wasnt really forseeing this turn into a tire offset debate, I was more hoping for a discussion about the antirock, its flex rate compared to stock, and other ways to mount it. Like I said i'll probably post more later but for now i'm workin on hackin up my fenders
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:42 PM   #27
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Hey everybody,

As per my other post(s), I am running 34.4" tires and they are currently contacting my swaybar at full lock. I would like to resolve this issue so that I can keep my nice tight turning radius. Thus I need a swaybar that really hugs the frame.

I have looked at the Currie unit and it would be perfect for me except the fact that it is going to give me much less anti-roll than the factory unit. I would really like to stay near factory performance if at all possible.

So my question is this:

Normally the currie bar is mounted through the tube at the very front of the frame. What if I were to find a mounting location somewhat closer to the axle and then drill my own holes on the swaybar arms so that they are close to 1/2 as long as they are now. This would significantly reduce the amount of flex that the antirock affords.

I don't really see any reason as to why this wouldnt work, unless the torsion rod is not capable of handling the additional stress I would be putting on it. Anyone have any comments? I would really like to do this, I think it would turn out pretty well

P.S. - if at all possible, i'd really rather not have comments to the effect of "just run it like they intend, you'll be fine". They put a warning right in the product description that on-road performance WILL NOT be as good as the factory sway bar. I can't imagine that they would add that in there unless there was a significant decrease in on-road performance.

Any input?? Thanks a bunch guys!
Supposedly running the rear antirock compliments the front antirock and brings back the stability lost from running only a front antirock. The rear antirock is actually stiffer than the factory setting.
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Old 02-26-2012, 03:45 PM   #28
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To the original poster: Your idea is dumb.

That's harsh, but it's what you asked for. I've been running an Antirock for several months and love it. But I often drove my TJ with the stock anti sway bar disconnected entirely. So the minimal amount of extra body roll with the Antirock doesn't bother me at all. When you start modifying a vehicle in ways that were not concerns in it's original design you have to be willing to make compromises.

Put washers behind your steering stops, or put smaller tires on your Jeep, or let it rub your stock sway bar, or run the Antirock and be happy with slightly more body roll on the street, and never having to disconnect again. Or do whatever you want to do and live with the results.

YMMV.
x2 on what he said.
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Old 02-27-2012, 12:08 AM   #29
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If nothing else, could someone that actually has an antirock give me a precise measurement as to how far it sticks out from the frame? If you could measure both sides just to make sure they are equal it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
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Old 02-27-2012, 01:12 AM   #30
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If nothing else, could someone that actually has an antirock give me a precise measurement as to how far it sticks out from the frame? If you could measure both sides just to make sure they are equal it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
I'd be happy to do that for you. Be back with that info asap.

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