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Old 02-06-2013, 01:33 PM   #1
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Currie lift

Pulling the trigger on a currie lift. Only question I have is what exactly is the "anti rock" swaybar. Read on their website that it distributes the weight evenly to all four tires. I'm trying figure what the advantage would be between that and the disconnects. Maybe I'm missing something, I don't quite fully understand that. Also, I got a rubi so I don't need a SYE correct? But will I need a CV shaft? Thanks everyone in advance

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Old 02-06-2013, 01:37 PM   #2
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this replaces your sway bar and if you look at the anti rock it has a number of leverage points built in.

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Old 02-06-2013, 01:44 PM   #3
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:47 PM   #4
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Thanks, anti rock it is! Lol

Will I need a CV shaft?
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Old 02-06-2013, 01:50 PM   #5
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Also there's the other lift they have with "heavy rear springs". I'm assuming that's for if you plan to have added weight like recovery gear and such correct?
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:30 PM   #6
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When you are done with the lift then I would replace the stock rear drive shaft with a Tom Woods unit. They have a great web site that will help. A simple measurment and then they will send the correct one. They are super people and will answer the phone and help with questions. You do not have to change it, but you wont regret doing it. But, do it after the lift is installed and adjusted, that way the new drive shaft will be the correct length.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:41 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOONY90 View Post
Thanks, anti rock it is! Lol

Will I need a CV shaft?
You should already have one. It should look similar to this:

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Old 02-06-2013, 02:48 PM   #8
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The heavy is for a big tire/bumper with fuel tanks and recovery/camping gear in the back. Maybe a passenger in the back also. I have a teraflex 4 inch springs only lift which sags in the rear a bit and will be replacing it with the Savvy 4 inch progressive. They use the currie springs.
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Old 02-06-2013, 02:57 PM   #9
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Thanks everyone for the help. I know exactly what ima order now. As for the CV shaft, I meant a longer one to compensate for the angle of the dangle
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:00 PM   #10
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This is what I got, which looks the same as yours
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOONY90 View Post
This is what I got, which looks the same as yours
Yes it is. That's not a double cardan drive shaft.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:12 PM   #12
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I have the double cardan. It has 2 u joints in the front of the shaft and a single in the back.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:13 PM   #13
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This will help explain the differences: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:14 PM   #14
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I have the double cardan. It has 2 u joints in the front of the shaft and a single in the back.
I understand that but both pictures shown thus far are OEM Rubicon rear drive shafts. Single joint shafts that attach to a fixed output yoke.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:16 PM   #15
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Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:17 PM   #16
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This will help explain the differences: What is a CV shaft and why do I want one? - JeepForum.com
Thanks for the link. I'll read it when I get home tonight. Thanks alot for the help
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Old 02-06-2013, 03:20 PM   #17
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Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.
I would recommend a double cardan drive shaft of the proper length, built with at least 2" x .120" wall DOM tube and Spicer components. Plenty of places can build a good drive shaft for you, not just Tom Woods. I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #18
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Double Cardon shaft vs the stock Rubicon shafts shown above.

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Old 02-06-2013, 04:14 PM   #19
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I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.
Oh, come on! Out of the three shafts we've had built by TW, only two of them had issues. And only one of them was a crappy u-joint. That was the most recent one; a couple months ago.

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Old 02-06-2013, 04:51 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Imped View Post
I would recommend a double cardan drive shaft of the proper length, built with at least 2" x .120" wall DOM tube and Spicer components. Plenty of places can build a good drive shaft for you, not just Tom Woods. I actually wouldn't run a TW myself due to the cheap joints he uses.
Tom will install whatever u-joint you request. I have had 6 Tom Wood driveshafts over the years and every one of them was built with Spicer u-joints as requested.
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Old 02-06-2013, 04:54 PM   #21
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I intend to buy a DC shaft from Tom, despite the problems my Dad has had with his last two shafts. They did take care of it. Balance issue AND a loose U-joint on the DC shaft for Dad's Rubi., and a run-out issue on a DC shaft for his Tux.
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Old 02-06-2013, 05:41 PM   #22
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Mines green, of unknown origin but has Spicer life u-joints in it....
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Old 02-06-2013, 06:03 PM   #23
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Thanks everyone for the replies. Got some research to do.
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Old 02-06-2013, 11:04 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SPOONY90
Which one would you guys recommend? The jeep will not be my DD, it will be my toy as soon as my truck gets out the shop.
Tom woods , double cardan

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