master overhaul kit should include everything you need to install the ARB. since its a 96, I'd swap the balljoints. I recommend NAPA Lifetime, they're made by Dana. Thats what I used on my HP D30 and no problems yet, alignment check shows chamber has been the same for a few thousand miles now.
you don't NEED adjustable uppers in front. you don't want to extend them anyway. you may actually want to shorten them however, depending on your setup. this will give you some caster back without pushing the diff closer to the track bar. with a HP D30 you really don't have to worry about pinion angle till 5"+ of lift. As for UCA's, I'd recommend either Rokmen or Currie...i've got Rokmen (but they don't adjust shorter than stock). what is useful is adjustable lowers, to push the front out and get the caster you want. I run close to stock caster spec on my HP D30 - 6.5 degrees w/ 33s & 2.5" lift. LCA's are ~16-1/8" long.
The knuckles are exactly the same between the 96 and your housing. you can swap them if you want, but its not entirely necessary. make sure you repair the knuckle divots that have undoubtably worn in both sets of knuckles (Jeep design flaw). here's a write-up on how to fix them: XJ/TJ/ZJ Front Knuckle Repair - Brake Pad Grooves - JeepForum.com
yes you can run your pitman arm, draglink and tie-rod from your TJ. I'd suggest upgrading to a V8 ZJ tie-rod tho, the TJ tie-rod is stupid thin and sucks. replace the Clevite bushings in the housing while your at it. i made a press to push them out and push the new ones in.