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Old 09-21-2011, 07:53 AM   #1
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Question dd tj's on 37's or bigger gears?

is anyone out there running a d tj on 37's + tires im woundering bc my jeep is being built but with it being my only ride , what gears are best for it i take many weekend trips over 3hrs long and wanna know with 5.13's or 5.38's or even 4.88's would work best ? i have a stock 4.0 and 5spd thank in advance

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Old 09-21-2011, 08:26 AM   #2
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5.13's for 37's will work the best with the manual....

A little more info on your Jeep would help out, such as what axles you have and your current set-up. You might want to consider 33' or 35's for a DD.

DD & 37s usually dont work well, What axles will they be on???
Be prepared for alot of maintenance and repairs items... Ball Joints, Hub Assemblies, Steering Link or TRE's and U-joints, that and increased tire wear depending on what tires you run

D60s & 14B is overkill for 37's, you can easily get away with a Ford HPD44 and Ford 9" Rear

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Old 09-21-2011, 08:36 AM   #3
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If you have a '98 TJ, as your screen name suggests, I would upgrade axles first. I would not run 37s on a D30F or Model 35 rear. As "snwchris" informed you, maintenance/repairs will drain your wallet quickly. Almost as fast as the gas pump.

I had an '06 LJ with 37s and an auto w/4.88s on D44 f/r. I wished I had gone with 5.13s. As a DD it wasn't bad. But then again, I had the longer wheel base to help smooth out the road.
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Old 09-21-2011, 08:54 AM   #4
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I am running 38" KM2's on my DD. Can't remember the exact ratio off the top of my head, but upgraded axles is a must. I am running a Sterling 10 1/4 rear and it is nice having the peace of mind that there will be another less expensive (but possibly equally disabling) weak link to show it's self later.
With the proper gears, you won't notice much of a difference. I am still getting a solid 15mpg and still have the pep of a stocker. Take your time, do it right, it will save you money and headache in the future.
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:09 AM   #5
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sorry for not mentioning im running currently
kuhmo kl71's 33x12.5x15
D30 4.10
8.8 4.10
and a 6'' rc la
currently being built
DhpD60
14 bolt
Custom 3link(panhard)rear will be kinda based onthe trail gear rear 3link set up
sway away 14'' or 16'' coil overs
and rebuil my np 231
and ''sirgeorgekillian'' if u could let me know what gears you are running would be great thanks for all the info everyone
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:15 AM   #6
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and the reason behind the 60/14 i got them way to cheap lol and the only reason for 37's is bc i know i dont have the engine to turn 40's when i return from deployment and my jeep is done depending on how i like the power and drivability i might do a hemi or 4bt swap for more power i just dont believe in trailering something i worked so hard on
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Old 09-21-2011, 09:57 AM   #7
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I am actually thinking about metal cloaks and 40's when the time for new rubber comes. When you got the gears and axles you can turn dang near anything you want.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:24 AM   #8
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I am actually thinking about metal cloaks and 40's when the time for new rubber comes. When you got the gears and axles you can turn dang near anything you want.
yea i know but u dd ur jeep on 38's but can u drive ur jeep down the highway ? would u drive it 250miles one way would it make it out hills on the high way without declining in speed from 70 to 60 / these are the questions i would like answered lol basic drive ability ?
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:38 AM   #9
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I'm running 42's on mine and still have the 4.0 (6cyl), it does good on road and county roads but no plans for hiway with it, that and the 42s would wear entirely too fast on the road.

When you start getting to bigger tires like 37s and up, steering becomes a big issues and concern. You can get upgrade links like the Currie or you can think about Hyd-Assist or Full Hydro. Hyd-Assist and Full Hydro I would NOT recommend for highway driving and speeds and long distance driving.

I trailer mine either either 2hrs, 5hrs or 7hrs to different 4wd parks. The nice thing about trailering, is I can beat the snot out of it and never have to worry how will I get it home or have to do repairs in the parking lot, been there done that.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:48 AM   #10
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I'm running 42's on mine and still have the 4.0 (6cyl), it does good on road and county roads but no plans for hiway with it, that and the 42s would wear entirely too fast on the road.

When you start getting to bigger tires like 37s and up, steering becomes a big issues and concern. You can get upgrade links like the Currie or you can think about Hyd-Assist or Full Hydro. Hyd-Assist and Full Hydro I would NOT recommend for highway driving and speeds and long distance driving.

I trailer mine either either 2hrs, 5hrs or 7hrs to different 4wd parks. The nice thing about trailering, is I can beat the snot out of it and never have to worry how will I get it home or have to do repairs in the parking lot, been there done that.
well im gonna be running hydro assist so its still legal and me being an e3 in the marine corps a tow rig and trailer are way out the budget besides i agree fixing the jeep at the part to make it home sucks but maybe next deployment i will get a tow rig or a tow rig as a second rig when i get back
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:49 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duggan98tj

yea i know but u dd ur jeep on 38's but can u drive ur jeep down the highway ? would u drive it 250miles one way would it make it out hills on the high way without declining in speed from 70 to 60 / these are the questions i would like answered lol basic drive ability ?
Dude, I drove it home to Charleston SC from Pensacola FL. 13 hours straight mostly interstate. Big, properly inflated, balanced, aligned tires are not really a big deal. Yes there is a difference between them and stock sized street tires, but I have read too many times where people make it sound completely un streetable. I do have a durango steering box along with the axles and brakes from a F350. Long story short, when done correctly, it just isn't a big deal.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:53 AM   #12
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Yes, it can be done like said, but does cost time & money.... since mine is mainly a wheeling rig, it costed less time and money to get it there since I dont have to worry about street manners of it.

Also what is your state laws for rigs like that.... some state have inspections laws which makes it difficult to get your vehicle to pass and get registered.
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:55 AM   #13
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sorry didnt mean to sound snappy just get excited that im getting real answers lol i well be running psc hydro assist and 1tons im just a excited / worried im deployed and having my best friend build it and hes the only person besides me that has wrenched on my rig but i trust him and your advice thanks me and him built his ranger 01 with a 5.0 v8 d60 14bolt 3link front leafs out back for now and 39'' iroks
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Old 09-21-2011, 10:56 AM   #14
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Yes, it can be done like said, but does cost time & money.... since mine is mainly a wheeling rig, it costed less time and money to get it there since I dont have to worry about street manners of it.

Also what is your state laws for rigs like that.... some state have inspections laws which makes it difficult to get your vehicle to pass and get registered.
registered in louisiana as long as everything works im good for the most part
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:10 AM   #15
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No worries there. Go big or go home. You will only waste more money later redoing it! Lol
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:33 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by duggan98tj
sorry for not mentioning im running currently
kuhmo kl71's 33x12.5x15
D30 4.10
8.8 4.10
and a 6'' rc la
currently being built
DhpD60
14 bolt
Custom 3link(panhard)rear will be kinda based onthe trail gear rear 3link set up
sway away 14'' or 16'' coil overs
and rebuil my np 231
and ''sirgeorgekillian'' if u could let me know what gears you are running would be great thanks for all the info everyone
All that work and your going to 3 link the rear? Why not 4 link and triangulate?
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:55 AM   #17
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Currently running an '06 TJ Rubicon with 6 sp manual, 37" Goodyear MTR's and 17" TR beadlock wheels, stock d44's upgraded with Superior shafts. 4:88 gears work great for both crawling and highway. DD quite a bit and no problems at all. Works well.
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Old 09-21-2011, 11:59 AM   #18
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Nice setup on the Rubi and I know a few people who did the RCV Fronts and Superior Rears.

Any pics of it in the TJ picture thread??/
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:06 PM   #19
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my rear 3 link design is a proto type kinda lol its a copy of the trail gear three link rear kit for toyota's Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts if that doesnt work then he will do a double tri four link
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:16 PM   #20
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Currently running an '06 TJ Rubicon with 6 sp manual, 37" Goodyear MTR's and 17" TR beadlock wheels, stock d44's upgraded with Superior shafts. 4:88 gears work great for both crawling and highway. DD quite a bit and no problems at all. Works well.
thanks for the info im really gonna try to run the mt/r's u think that six speed is helping u out with the extra gear i always woundered about putting a six speed in my jeep
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Old 09-21-2011, 12:58 PM   #21
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I don't think the 6 sp is a huge advantage over the 5 sp. Probably what's a bigger difference is the transfer case ratio of the Rubicon. You don't have the Rubicon crawl ratio, so for serious crawling you may want something higher numerically than my 4.88's.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:03 PM   #22
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I don't think the 6 sp is a huge advantage over the 5 sp. Probably what's a bigger difference is the transfer case ratio of the Rubicon. You don't have the Rubicon crawl ratio, so for serious crawling you may want something higher numerically than my 4.88's.
well the crawl ratio well be fixed later for now just rtying to the rid dd able before i come home bc i will be latter doing a atlas but im just concerned with dd ability im not looking for a race car by any means it would just be real nice to cruz down the highway at 70 u know
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:18 PM   #23
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Advance Adapters Rubicrawler.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:43 PM   #24
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:49 PM   #25
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To b honest I wouldn't even consider 37's for a DD wrangler. With 37's you would not only want to regear but strongly consider new axles. I have 35's with 4.56's...lockers, and a ford 8.8 in the rear and it still is not comfortable for nething more than like 20 minutes of driving.
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Old 09-21-2011, 01:57 PM   #26
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To b honest I wouldn't even consider 37's for a DD wrangler. With 37's you would not only want to regear but strongly consider new axles. I have 35's with 4.56's...lockers, and a ford 8.8 in the rear and it still is not comfortable for nething more than like 20 minutes of driving.
i have 4.10's and 33's and 8.8 and i find it great just want more out of my rig
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:01 PM   #27
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my rear 3 link design is a proto type kinda lol its a copy of the trail gear three link rear kit for toyota's Toyota, Suzuki Samurai, and Jeep Off Road Parts if that doesnt work then he will do a double tri four link
You do realize that's for the front right? Usually because you can't triangulate the front because of the engine. Doing a 3 link with panhard in the rear would be a complete waste of time and money. The ultimate goal is to get rid of the trackbar/panhard.
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Old 09-21-2011, 02:06 PM   #28
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page down and look at the third pic rear long travle and if people dont try new things then we cant move forward thanks for the support
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Old 09-23-2011, 01:03 PM   #29
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my friends DD is on 38x15.50s..not sure about front axle but rear is a d60, he's only runnin 4.88s with a 4.0L and 5 speed so with 5.13 i think it would be a pretty good set up
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Old 05-05-2012, 09:13 PM   #30
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my daily driver has 9inches of lift, 37in Nitto Mud grapplers, factory dana 35 in rear with 4.56 gears. i have been driving with this set up for 6 years now with no wear or tear on anything what so ever. i can also say that i made several spring break trips to destin,with no problems but from wind and tire noise. my steering is really tight , just like a sports car and i love it i think it all depends on the persons driving habits. fuel has been @ 11-14 mpg.

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