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Old 03-04-2011, 10:44 PM   #1
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Diagram of a Dana 44??

So this evening I attempted to take the wife out go dinner, I pull around a right corner and something in my rear end pops, and starts clunking loudly. I pulled off the road thinking I just blew a U-joint. I looked underneath and everything looked fine to me. The driveshaft did not feel loose or anything.

So I managed to creep back home and jacked up the rear end. I turned both tires and didn't hear any noises or anything. I did not try pulling the tires side to side though.

I have a Dana 44 rear but I have never had to mess with an axle or any if it's components before, so I'm looking forward to learning some things tomorrow

Do any of you have any suggestions of what it could be? Is there a diagram I can see that shows all the components? I'm pretty savvy with mist things but I feel like an idiot when it comes to axles...

And there's no need to second guess me on my Dana 44. I know just enough to know the difference between axles.

Any input would be awesome

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Old 03-04-2011, 10:57 PM   #2
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you should be able to find out what you're looking for at... The Expert - Dana Holding Corporation Product Information for driveshafts, driveshafts, axles, and Drivelines.

The 44 should be under light axle.
As far as what might be wrong, it's hard to tell till you get into it.

Good Luck!

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Old 03-04-2011, 11:07 PM   #3
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Nice! That should help me out. Thank you
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Old 03-04-2011, 11:11 PM   #4
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Your welcome! That site is pretty cool. It gives me flashback from when I used to work for Dana. lol
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:30 PM   #5
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Broken teeth. Is this my problem? Now what do I do?
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:38 PM   #6
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New ring & pinion gear set and bearings, not a big deal. Total cost including all parts and labor should be somewhere between $500 and $600 if you go to a 4x4 shop. Don't go to the dealer or a general purpose garage who would probably charge triple that amount.
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:42 PM   #7
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Is it pretty difficult to tackle this myself?
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Old 03-05-2011, 12:50 PM   #8
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Yes, I wouldn't even consider it. There's a lot to properly setting up gears and installing new bearings. I do all my own work on my TJ including fabricating and welding but I won't attempt ring & pinion gears.
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:03 PM   #9
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Okay makes sense. Will I need to trailer it to a shop, or can I reassemble it and drive it to the shop?
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:08 PM   #10
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I dunno, that's a judgement call that depends on how far the shop is and how bad the rear axle is. I drove 25 miles one day in the slow lane with my old Dana 35c's entire differential in pieces to get to a shop. It sounded like I had dumped scrap metal into a garbage disposal but it made it. Ya shoulda seen the pieces that poured out when they got the diff cover off.
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Old 03-05-2011, 01:15 PM   #11
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As far as I can tell, only teeth are broken off the ring gear. I know the ring and pinion need to be replaced together. I just don't want to risk breaking any spider gears or anything else in there. My shop is only a mile and a half away, I guess I'll try driving it.

Thank you for all your help Jerry
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Old 03-05-2011, 04:01 PM   #12
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I'd recomend doing exactly what Jerry said. There's a few things on it that make it very difficult to do on your own. That being pulling the pinion bearing and case bearings off and getting the new ones back on with messing them up. Or mixing the shims and messing up your backlash, if you get those messed up the gear could lock up. As for driving it to the shop, if it's not to hard of an ordeal I'd put it on the trailer and tow it there. Those broken teeth are like throwing rocks into..., well a gear. It could mess up your spiders and your axle shafts and could cause catastrophic failure to the whole thing.
I wish you the best, man! Good luck.
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Old 03-05-2011, 07:00 PM   #13
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what type of driving conditions would cause this sort of failure ?

It does not seem that you were off-road or using it in a severe case ?
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Old 03-06-2011, 11:45 AM   #14
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I don't know what caused it. It's wired because I am a nice driver, and I wasn't doing anything rough when it happened. Even when I'm wheeling I keep the jerks to a minimum. I wonder if the pinion gear went bad and caused it to get sloppy?
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Old 03-06-2011, 12:10 PM   #15
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If it has been regeared to handle your 35" tires, there's a good chance the installer simply screwed up the installation which isn't easy to get right.
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:06 PM   #16
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It had 4.56 gears installed 2 years ago. I have the receipt from the previous owner.
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Old 03-06-2011, 01:39 PM   #17
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Most of those aftermarket gears have lifetime warranties if you have the receipt that may help you. A job like that does require a lot of special tools not to mention the skills involved. Definitely take it to a 4x4 shop because they will have the most experience doing gears. I work in a dealership now and the guys here are very highly trained and the best at what they do but when it comes to changing gear size and adding or subtracting shims to get the correct pattern I'm sure even the best technician would have trouble if they haven't done much of it in the past.
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Old 03-06-2011, 02:56 PM   #18
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Odds are the installing shop only had a one year warranty on the job. Not to mention that warranty issues can get pissy since the gear manufacturer usually says the problem is from a bad installation (and they are usually right) and the installer blames the gears themselves.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:02 PM   #19
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Yeah but the work was done in Missouri and I'm in Utah. I think it's too much of a hassle to try contacting the company that did the work. I have a guy close that has a good reputation and quoted me $550-$600 to do the work. I think i'll just go with that, plus I need my DD back.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:11 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dirk124 View Post
As far as I can tell, only teeth are broken off the ring gear. I know the ring and pinion need to be replaced together. I just don't want to risk breaking any spider gears or anything else in there. My shop is only a mile and a half away, I guess I'll try driving it.

Thank you for all your help Jerry
You need to make those spider gears dissapear. Espeially since this is the second time somone will have been in there.
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Old 03-06-2011, 04:36 PM   #21
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. I have a guy close that has a good reputation and quoted me $550-$600 to do the work. I think i'll just go with that, plus I need my DD back.
You have made a good decision, that's a fair price for the job.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:16 AM   #22
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So on Saturday, I also went ahead and changed the oil in the front diff. The oil was very gray like there was water in it. I have not gone through any deep water at all. I took the Jeep to the shop today to get the rear fixed, and I noticed the breather hose on the front diff was in the frame. Is that where the breather hose should be?
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:27 AM   #23
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The rear breather hose is supposed to be run up inside the tub next to where the gas filler hoses are. The front breather hose is mounted up next to the radiator on the driver's side. The vent hose's vented ends are supposed to be 3-4' high to prevent water from getting inside either axle.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:49 AM   #24
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Aha! So the hose must have been sucking in water from out of the frame. I better move the hose out of there.
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Old 03-07-2011, 11:50 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Ageless Stranger View Post
You need to make those spider gears dissapear. Espeially since this is the second time somone will have been in there.
Yes I do realize the ridiculous fact. I'm looking into getting an E-locker while it's all torn apart.

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