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Did I just buy a complete POS or do I have a chance?

16K views 172 replies 49 participants last post by  ives 
#1 ·
I'm probably going to take it over to the body shop sometime tomorrow but with all the upgrades and everything, is this worth saving? I picked it up for less than what everything is selling for around here so I have some room to fix everything but should I abandon ship or what?
Check out my profile for most of the specs (for all I know it could have a SYE and CV driveshaft and I don't know it) on everything.
Did I Buy a POS? - YouTube

Thanks guys!

Also, Here's the thread where a few guys pointed out about having the frame checked.
http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/hood-adjustment-205643.html
 
#70 ·
SAABseanSCANIA said:
Sorry about the Intro to Law lesson but I feel for you and your parents. This stuff happens all the time with "certifying authorities"; so a small case like your Jeep isn't an oddity. The truth is everyone gets lazy sometimes, even inspectors.
Ok, this is my last .02 on the matter. A vehicle holds a salvaged title for one reason. It was damaged beyond repair. Said vehicle goes through auction where people bid on it at a low cost( Gypsies) and buy the vehicle for resale. I can assure you theres no way in hell they are going to spend alot of money to fix it correctly. They make it presentable and target people not in the know. In his case, its very hard to tell if a frame is diamoned. That being said, the ONLYway this muchacho is buying a rig with a salvaged title is if i see it at auction and assess the damage then i fix it myself. There were so many red flags on this jeep besides the branded title. Yeah i feel sorry for the kid, and as far as im concerned his dad has no right to be pissed at him especially if he looked at it also. If he wants to keep it, buy a frame that hopefully is square then transfer everything. Personally, id pull the frame around then line up all the panels, but i have the capability and the resources for that.
 
#71 ·
Thanks for the lawyer lesson but the biggest problem I think I would run into would be WHEN it was wrecked. It could have been fine when it was inspected and then it was wrecked afterwards. That would be my first problem, also the guy we bought it from never had it registered in his name and had an open title so we technically bought it off then owner before him.

Talked to my parents this morning after I read all of the new posts. They really don't want to part out because we just don't have the time (I'll make time if it will help get my money back) to do something like that. I'm really considering the frame+body swap mentioned above IF I can do it for that price.

If I were to JUST do a frame swap, would I be able to have the body worked on to get it straightened out or would I just have to hope it falls back into place?

Last option would be to sell it outright. What do you guys think I could get for it if I went this route? 83,000 miles, Atlas II transfer case, Teraflex lift kit, SYE, DC Shafts, Hard and Soft Top, 35" tires.

I really wouldn't want to go the selling route because I would be missing out on a good upgraded Jeep and if I parted out, I could at least keep SOME parts I would want on the new Jeep.

The guy at the body shop is a good friend of ours so my mom is going to run these options by him. He suggested to just trade it in but my mom doesn't want to feel guilty if the place puts it back on the lot, someone buys it and then gets killed in a wreck.

I'm about to head in to work but once I get off I'll run some numbers and see which is the best route.
 
#72 ·
UFOtestpilot said:
Also, there is no recourse on a sold "as is" vehicle, which ALL used vehicles without aftermarket warranty or contract between seller/buyer are. I've seen some vehicles that were dangerously patched together for sale around Portland.

KILRIK: Why don't you plan the three ways out of this mess that have been discussed, enter the data for each into it's own spreadsheet, total up the debits and credits, see which one nets you what you want for the least amount of acceptable loss, and go from there? You can think and talk about it all until it stops making sense, or you can get some facts down on paper (or screen) in front of you and make an intelligent logic based decision on this vehicle.

I've given you input on what I would do based on how I approach my personal affairs. I parted out a race prepped Subaru with a grenaded transmission three years ago. I still have parts in my garage that I haven't sold. I lost 5k less than I would have lost by selling the car outright as it was. Either way I was going to lose money on the deal. I'm not stating you should part out your Jeep, because I don't believe you should. I'm stating that I found the way out that lost me the least money to get what I needed out of the deal. I'm only suggesting you do the same. Good luck.
So after reading through the thread, this is about the most sound advise you could have been given.
There's a point where you have to stop thinking "if I sell it I'm gonna lose a modded jeep". Modded jeeps aren't hard to find, what is, is a safe reliable vehicle that is less than 3-5 years old. This is my .02, and IF I were you(and this is coming from some very close to your age) I would do as suggested. Run the numbers. Words will lie to you, and deceive you, but the numbers, they'll tell it to you straight. If I lose more $$ keeping it, it's not worth it, set your budget, not what you're willing to spend, but what you are ABLE to spend. Then make the spreadsheet and you'll know what to do.
Hope it all works out brother, we've all made a small mistake before, but it's only a learning experience.
 
#73 ·
In reality if that jeep was in good condition you would've paid a lot more than 8k for it. Even if you spend another 4k fixing her up you would still be under it's value IMO. So you didn't get the steal you thought you did...big deal. So fix it up and you'll have a solid badass rig.

BTW, parting it out and keeping the best parts for your next jeep won't get you your 8k back. So it's kinda pointless and probably more expensive if you factor in buying another jeep. If you part it out you have to sell everything to even get remotely close. People buying your parts will be looking for a deal and won't pay retail...that's just how it goes.
 
#74 ·
Before I even made it home, my parents had talked to the guy at the autobody shop (he's a good friend of ours) and they decided without my input that they were going to sell it. No questions asked, and I really don't have much say at this point because they made up their mind.

I would LOVE to keep the Jeep but I just can't afford 4K to fix it up at this point since I'm already paying back the price of the Jeep.

Sorry for flip flopping so much trying to figure all of this out. Thanks for all of the help and maybe sometime in the future you'll see me on here with a new Jeep.
 
#77 ·
My father wasn't too happy with the whole Jeep thing. Now he has in his head that all Jeep's are piles of crap that get terrible gas mileage and they are just a fun vehicle.
I basically put it this way to him. If I get a sports car, I'm going to sink money into it, go fast, get tickets and I'll be out more money. Then when I go to sell it, it won't be worth hardly anything.

With the Jeep, I can do most of the work myself, parts aren't OUTRAGEOUSLY expensive like a foreign car and they hold their resale value.

He hasn't argued with me since...

:thumb:
 
#81 ·
KILRIK said:
I think he will let me get another Jeep, it's just this time we're going to take our time and look. I'm probably going to search for a high mileage automatic (what's TOO high of a mileage?) Rubicon if they will be in my price range (also, are there any bad Rubicon TJ years?). If I get my money back out of it, I should have the budget but if not, I'll probably look for a regular Wrangler with a D44 rear.

The guy at the body shop said to bring him along next time and he will inspect it for us to make us feel better about buying another one.
Do you plan on doing any offroading? Anything big, or just playing in the mud or a trail off a back road every so often? If not, the don't bother with a rubicon. Sure they have the lockers and D44, but on the road they're the same as any other jeep. If the D44 is what you want, then get a sport/Sahara with a D44 rear, the D30 is much tougher than the D35. Unless you just really need it to say rubicon on the hood :)
 
#82 ·
I plan on going offroad but it will mainly be used as a DD. Probably not a ton of hard core stuff but probably some medium trails. I can't afford to mess something up since I drive it to work every day.

My main goal is to achieve 35's depending on what all has to be done. First thing I'll do is put on Metal Cloak's and then lift it from there for the 35's.
Will a Dana 30 and Dana 44 regeared be fine for 35's? I know there are a few other mods I will need to do (just can't think of them right now). What are they?

Depending how much I have to sink in to run 35's, I may just stick with 33's and go to 35's later.
 
#85 ·
Parents are already set on selling it BUT I was wondering, would it be worth it to keep the winch and the lights or would I have a hard time selling it without them? I'm not too crazy about the bumpers and they wouldn't be a lot to replace but the winch (unless I find one used) and lights are another story because I don't think I'll be able to afford those again.
 
#88 ·
Are you going to buy another jeep before selling the bent one? If you are or can convince your parents to do so i'd swap EVERYTHING over and put the stock crap on the yellow jeep...especially if you're selling to a dealer. Dealer's don't consider mods as added value to a vehicle until they're selling them :rofl: Private party sell you'll want to leave the mods on.
 
#86 ·
KILRIK said:
Parents are already set on selling it BUT I was wondering, would it be worth it to keep the winch and the lights or would I have a hard time selling it without them? I'm not too crazy about the bumpers and they wouldn't be a lot to replace but the winch (unless I find one used) and lights are another story because I don't think I'll be able to afford those again.
Keep the winch. Keep the price you're selling it for too.
 
#89 ·
KILRIK said:
I have it at $8,500
If I pull the winch should I still be ok?
I really want to keep the lights because they're $400 each (I think, can't figure out what model they are).
keeping the winch and the lights, I don't see a problem selling it for that price.
A stock one should be around that a bit more, at least in my area.
 
#92 ·
KILRIK said:
Yeah but mine has a bent frame and a rebuilt title. That's why I'm questioning if I should keep the lights and winch or not...
I know it does, regardless of what it has, it's gonna be hard with the damage, what you can do is ask the 8500 without winch and lights, and use them as a bargaining tool, if the potential buyer says 8k you can tell him 8.5 and you'll throw the winch and lights as an example.
 
#93 ·
I may do that. I'll have to rewire everything again though :banghead:

I'm also considering swapping out the TeraFlex sway bar for a stock one but I guess that would lower the value of the vehicle.

Anyone have any idea on my transfer case question though?
Quick question the the Atlas Transfer Case. I know they are expensive and all but when I was trying to shift in to anything other than 2Hi, it was a PAIN to get it to shift and when I did finally get it into 4Hhi or 4Lo the whole Jeep would start bouncing. When I would turn the tires it felt like they all of a sudden where flat. This was only when I was in anything other than 2Hi. Any ideas?

If someone says that the Transfer case needs work, it will make letting this go a little easier...
 
#95 ·
KILRIK said:
I may do that. I'll have to rewire everything again though :banghead:

I'm also considering swapping out the TeraFlex sway bar for a stock one but I guess that would lower the value of the vehicle.

Anyone have any idea on my transfer case question though?
That's what I personally would do.

On the teraflex sway bar, I'm not sure how good it is, but on a stock one, you'll have to get links for it anyways so if leave that in.

And unfortunately I can't help with the t-case as I'm not familiar with the atlas 2 or any atlas case.
 
#102 ·

I ran all of the prices on everything but I'm not exactly sure if I'm too high or too low on my prices. I didn't include the price of the axles being regeared (how much should I add for that) and I wasn't exactly sure what axles were going for currently. I'm not sure what TeraFlex lift I have so I just put in the next to lowest one.
All prices were ballparked so I may be off on some things...

Any help on this would be great. Thanks guys!

*Forgot to put in the TeraFlex Sway Bar. $400 new so $275?
 
#103 ·
KILRIK said:
I ran all of the prices on everything but I'm not exactly sure if I'm too high or too low on my prices. I didn't include the price of the axles being regeared (how much should I add for that) and I wasn't exactly sure what axles were going for currently. I'm not sure what TeraFlex lift I have so I just put in the next to lowest one.
All prices were ballparked so I may be off on some things...

Any help on this would be great. Thanks guys!
Are you parting it out now? Thought you were selling it.
The soft top if in good condition you're looking at around the right price, the hard top you can get 1200 if in really good condition(here in California I've seen them sell for 3000!) what brand winch, the Dana 30 I'd say maybe 800-900, the rear you're in the ball park, I think so too for the T-case.
Also can't add much if anything for the regearing of the axles(there's a guy here selling his d44 he wanted 450 for it with 4.88 gears and a busted locker<---hope I can score that haha)
 
#104 ·
I'm not parting out just yet. Running numbers just to see how much is in the Jeep and if it would be worth keeping. After running all the numbers its worth around or a little more than I paid for.
We're still considering all options at this point but we would prefer to just sell it and wash out hands but we're considering the frame/tub swap as well as parting it out.

My parents biggest concern with parting it out is having the time to do it and how long it would take to do it.

The hard top isn't the best condition (small chip in the back and I'm not sure if the rear defrost/wiper works, I never tested it because there isn't a connection) but its nothing terrible.
I'll keep that in mind about the gearing though
 
#105 ·
For sure, also think if you part it out, you can sell basically everything on it, so the doors could net you another 300-500(i personally would give you around that for the doors given the condition). if you part it, im sure you can get at least what you paid for if not more.
is your front bumper the ORFab trail bumper?
 
#107 ·
KILRIK said:
OR-FAB Rock Slider Bumper
Solid Bumper from what I can tell...

I also just remembered the SYE and DC Shafts. What would I price those at?
Yea they make good stuff, I have their stinger.

Another 300 for both maybe more, if the engine is good, another 750 trans another 4-500. It would take longer to part it out, but if you have the room and time I'm sure it would be worth it.
But if someone is ready to take the whole thing, just sell it mate.
 
#108 ·
What about the price for the SYE?

Thanks for all of the help with pricing this stuff out for me!

I'm not really trying to get prices for parting out just yet, just trying to see what all the aftermarket parts are worth to see if maybe its worth doing a frame/tub swap.
 
#109 ·
The sye runs about 300 new and the cv 270-300 new( that's a Tom woods one) maybe 300-400 for both depending brand and condition of them.
Just know that these are estimates as seeing from someone who will purchase these down the road I'm not 100% accurate just an approximation.
And I try to help as my knowledge allows, and if anyone can correct me, I look forward to learning more.

Also remember that half the fun of owning a jeep is doing the work on it yourself!
 
#114 ·
sensor5 said:
If you decide to part her out, contact me and I will take the Dana 44 rear axle. I am in Indiana and can drive to Tenessee and make a road trip out of it. Don't forget the price you could get for the half doors - maybe $500.
Haha well since someone called dibs on something if parted I wouldn't mind the doors.
But as someone said above, it would be easier to just sell it out right and be finished with it.
 
#115 ·
KILRIK said:
So $200 maybe on the SYE and $175 maybe each drive shaft? Sounds about right...

Yeah, that was the main reason I wanted a Jeep. I just need to get it to a place that is safe to drive so I can start modifying it to my liking.
It would be a lot better if you got a completely stock one, and do mods little by little. I know it's a pain waiting to do all the stuff you want, but at least you'll know YOU did it not some stranger.
I'm still sitting on 31s and a stinger bumper, no lift(frowned upon a lot lol) but its within my budget and I hate the wait but it'll be better in the end.
Be patient about it mate.
 
#117 ·
Question kilrik. You said you had a mechanic check this out before you bought it. Maybe I missed it in reading the thread, but did you go knock on his door and say this is the problem, whats up?
 
#118 ·
ztman said:
Question JV. You said you had a mechanic check this out before you bought it. Maybe I missed it in reading the thread, but did you go knock on his door and say this is the problem, whats up?
I'm sorry, is this to me? Did I miss something? Not being a dick, I'm just confused. The jeep isn't mine on the thread.
 
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