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Old 03-20-2012, 06:05 AM   #1
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Difficulty of swapping out springs/shocks?

How hard is it to swap out springs and shocks on a tj? Are there any certain techniques used to make it easier? Any info is appreciated.

Thanks,
Ryan

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Old 03-20-2012, 06:21 AM   #2
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The process is quite easy.... but it does depend on the size of your springs as to how easy it will be. shocks are no big deal, just unbolt them.. there is no load on the shocks except it's charge ( depending on the shock ) and that is overcome with a little force.

Here is what I did to ease the process of removing springs during a BB install...

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/tera...urs-99763.html

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Old 03-20-2012, 06:22 AM   #3
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Use a good penetrating oil in advance... Repeat use for a couple of days, and then again before you start!
It is pretty straightforward, but you may end up breaking upper shock mount bolts like so many others... Then the "fun" begins!
It is also a good idea to have a spring compressor handy, if you are installing new or longer springs.
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Old 03-20-2012, 07:40 AM   #4
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Thanks a lot! That step-by-step made it way simpler!
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Old 03-20-2012, 11:58 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdock31
Thanks a lot! That step-by-step made it way simpler!
No problem...
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Old 03-20-2012, 01:48 PM   #6
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Go ahead and take a look now at the rear upper shock bolts and their condition....You'll see you gonna need long extension, and if they look rusted be ready to maybe break one or all and have to drill them out.

Get you a can of PB blaster or even better, Penetrating-Lubricating Oils ,

then squirt it on the fasteners daily starting now....I'm soaking mine now for same reason
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Old 03-21-2012, 05:40 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2002TJ
Go ahead and take a look now at the rear upper shock bolts and their condition....You'll see you gonna need long extension, and if they look rusted be ready to maybe break one or all and have to drill them out.

Get you a can of PB blaster or even better, Penetrating-Lubricating Oils ,

then squirt it on the fasteners daily starting now....I'm soaking mine now for same reason
Do you know by chance the size of the rear upper bolt size? Also the front lower bolt size? Just incase haha
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:09 AM   #8
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Top is 15mm and bottom is 21mm if I remember correctly.
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Old 03-21-2012, 06:10 AM   #9
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Top is 15mm and bottom is 21mm if I remember correctly.
Sorry, thinking control arms, shocks are 1/2" upper rear and lower front.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:13 AM   #10
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rear upper shocks are 13mm.
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Old 03-21-2012, 09:57 PM   #11
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If I were to get replacement bolts&nuts for all shocks what size should I get?
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Old 03-22-2012, 05:49 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rdock31 View Post
If I were to get replacement bolts&nuts for all shocks what size should I get?
Fronts and rear lowers will be fine to reuse. Just clean them up, anti-seize them, and put them back in.

Your ability to reuse the rear uppers will depend on whether they come out or not. If they do, wire wheel the threads clean, consider running a tap through the captive nut in the crossmember, apply lots of anti-seize to the bolts, and reuse 'em. If not, plan on drilling out the remains and drop new, longer bolts down from above and gunning the nuts on; or weld in new bolts dropped in from above to use as fixed studs; or weld new bolts to some flat stock so they can't spin freely and then using those as studs; or some other method like that. If you've got air tools, you can probably gun the new bolts on quick enough to get them to catch and tighten up without having to weld them in place.

The first time I did my rear shocks, I broke one bolt. The next time, two more. Drilling the remains out is a PITA for sure. Make sure you have sharp bits (titanium or cobalt helps) and be sure to have an extension for your drill so you can keep the drill chuck below the frame rail so the bit can drill straight on through. My replacement upper rear bolts are Grade8 SAE thread with washer, lockwasher, and a nut, with anti-seize liberally applied. The new inner one is a drop-down and weld-in-place stud, and the new outer two were welded to a short section of flat steel stock about 4" in length so when they try to spin they jam against the frame.

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