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Old 03-13-2007, 07:24 AM   #1
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DIY body lift

going to make my own body lift at work on the lathe.

what diameter are all the blocks?
how many are there?
is aluminum ok to use?
what bolts needed for 1.25" lift?
is there anything else i need?

i'll be doing a motor mount lift at the same time. will this solve my radiator cowl issue?
currently have a 2" BB lift. Will this be enough to get rid of my TC drop kit?

thanx for the help

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Old 03-13-2007, 07:49 AM   #2
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I think we need some more info. Do you currently have a suspension lift? If you're trying to get rid of your t-case drop kit, you should think about a SYE instead of a body lift. The drop kit reduces your drive line vibes and installing a body lift will not help you with this.

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Old 03-13-2007, 08:39 AM   #3
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doing a MML will relieve your vibes. you will be able to ditch the t-case drop.
i've never measured the diameter of my JKS pucks, but they have a thin lip that kinda fits over the stock body mount bushing. i think it more or less keeps the puck centered on the body mount......you could go from there. other kits don't have that lip, they just sit on top of the bushing and are basically the same diameter.
as for the bolts....take a stock one out. measure it and add 1.25" and that's the bolt you need.
aluminum is fine to use. the M.O.R.E. kit uses alum.
the blocks are not all the same size though. the ones to the rear around the gas tank are smaller in diameter IIRC.
the bolts are not all the same diameter either. pull some from the front/middle and pull one from the rear. don't remember the actual size but i know there are only two different sizes.
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Old 03-13-2007, 09:29 AM   #4
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some info on what body lift needs. That image was first introduced to the forum by Nicolas-Eric (thanks man) 932A is for auto tranny. Keep in mind with the bodylift you will need transfer case shifter linkages!!!
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Old 03-13-2007, 10:27 AM   #5
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if he's doing a MML, he won't need the tcase shifter linkage. and even if you did...i wouldn't suggest using it. it causes binding and doesn't shift very well using it. if anything, i'd get a t-case mounted mount.
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Old 06-05-2007, 06:00 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TXST8tj View Post
if he's doing a MML, he won't need the tcase shifter linkage. and even if you did...i wouldn't suggest using it. it causes binding and doesn't shift very well using it. if anything, i'd get a t-case mounted mount.
i removed the rubber bushings on the transfer case bracket that bolts on to the tub and just installed it with out them and added big washers on top, I still used the 2" bl tcase bracket. As you said it will cause binding and wont shift very well.. now it shifts better and easier than stock.
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Old 06-06-2007, 07:06 AM   #7
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just fyi that is for a 2" BL so i would cut it down a little b/c you dont want to have to mess with al the other stuff like the radiator

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