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Old 09-26-2013, 05:19 PM   #61
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Read this thread. It'll introduce you to a few things: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/long...ts-228510.html

Then go and read others like it. Then keep learning. Then make some decisions.

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Old 09-26-2013, 05:24 PM   #62
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Originally Posted by 2JeepsThatRun View Post
I did the 2" OME lift and did lca in the front and Uca in the back. I used washers to get the t-case in the right spot about between 1/8" or 1/4" can't remember, but it was less than the inch they have in the kit. With 31s, a good spotter, and some driving skill it will take you just about anywhere. If anyone is familiar with jellico, tn or natural bridge, ky this set up will take you through over 90% of the trails with one or two winch lines thrown.
I agree 100% a good spotter, and some driving skill go a long way. My rig has done more then I ever thought on a BB lift so far " Chinamans Gulch Buena Vista Co" But I now too am looking for smoother better system. OME,MC contol arms, new TB, and EMU shocks is my next. But I do the rocks so plan as you need. Nothing ever cheap if done right!

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Old 09-26-2013, 05:37 PM   #63
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I didnt disagree with you and understand the need for longer shocks and decrease in suspension travel. But there is a pretty big difference in price as coils are ~3 to 4 times as much as spacers. For ride quality there realy is no comparison, lift springs win hands down. I wouldnt run BB on my Jeep but they might work for a person on a tight budget.
Yeah but the thing is, if you get spacers, you gotta get new bumpstops(if the kit doesn't already come with them) and you gotta get new shocks too, to do it right. Otherwise your going to cut down on total shock travel by a few inches and will in effect have only about an inch and a half downtravel. See what Im saying? So if you have the money to buy a BB spacer kit, bumpstops AND new shocks, might as well just spend a few more bucks by bypassing the spacers and getting coils.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:22 PM   #64
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Little late to the party here. Quit the bickering. I appreciate all for not going too overboard. The thread seemed to turned back around so consider this the only warning-or it will be closed.

Carry on
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:54 PM   #65
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Oh with any track bar relocation bracket please weld it on those bolts scare the crap out of me
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:55 PM   #66
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Yeah but the thing is, if you get spacers, you gotta get new bumpstops(if the kit doesn't already come with them) and you gotta get new shocks too, to do it right. Otherwise your going to cut down on total shock travel by a few inches and will in effect have only about an inch and a half downtravel. See what Im saying? So if you have the money to buy a BB spacer kit, bumpstops AND new shocks, might as well just spend a few more bucks by bypassing the spacers and getting coils.
I say yes but it's more then a few buck, my case in point BB/shock $229.00 vs springs and shocks. To start Spring average $165 a pair=330, shocks "quality ones" minimum $75 each=300,bump stops $20 or so. So at a minimum to start off "good quality and ride" your in the game at $650. Everyone says do research well I did. I'm one to tell ya how it is and as of now this is what I have found to be true if you want quality ride, long life product with low fail rate, and something you will be happy with in the long run. Also consider what else a lesser set up does, shorter tire life, ujoint, steering componets and YOUR WALLET. Hey this only my opion and my lifes lesson. Happy wheel n my fellow Jeepers.
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Old 09-26-2013, 06:58 PM   #67
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Yeah but the thing is, if you get spacers, you gotta get new bumpstops(if the kit doesn't already come with them) and you gotta get new shocks too, to do it right. Otherwise your going to cut down on total shock travel by a few inches and will in effect have only about an inch and a half downtravel. See what Im saying? So if you have the money to buy a BB spacer kit, bumpstops AND new shocks, might as well just spend a few more bucks by bypassing the spacers and getting coils.
I say yes but it's more then a few buck, my case in point BB/shock $229.00 vs springs and shocks. To start Spring average $165 a pair=330, shocks "quality ones" minimum $75 each=300,bump stops $20 or so. So at a minimum to start off "good quality and ride" your in the game at $650. Everyone says do research well I did. I'm one to tell ya how it is and as of now this is what I have found to be true if you want quality ride, long life product with low fail rate, and something you will be happy with in the long run. Also consider what else a lesser set up does, shorter tire life, which they ain't cheap anymore, ujoint, steering componets and YOUR WALLET. Hey this only my opion and my lifes lesson. Happy wheel n my fellow Jeepers.
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Old 09-26-2013, 07:12 PM   #68
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I say yes but it's more then a few buck, my case in point BB/shock $229.00 vs springs and shocks. To start Spring average $165 a pair=330, shocks "quality ones" minimum $75 each=300,bump stops $20 or so. So at a minimum to start off "good quality and ride" your in the game at $650. Everyone says do research well I did. I'm one to tell ya how it is and as of now this is what I have found to be true if you want quality ride, long life product with low fail rate, and something you will be happy with in the long run. Also consider what else a lesser set up does, shorter tire life, ujoint, steering componets and YOUR WALLET. Hey this only my opion and my lifes lesson. Happy wheel n my fellow Jeepers.
On the LOW end of the quality shock/spring combo looking at under $400: BDS Jeep Wrangler TJ/Rubicon 2" Front 2" Rear Lift Kit 97-06

As you yourself state a decent shock will cost a few bucks.......so how do you get decent shocks and a budget spacer boost for $229?
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:42 AM   #69
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Is Rough Country's kit that horrible? I really just want to @#=$ around from time to time, but this is my daily driver so I need to know it will survive or find an affordable solution. Some suggestions are welcome... I already have 33"x12.5"x15"s.
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Old 09-27-2013, 08:00 AM   #70
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Is Rough Country's kit that horrible? I really just want to @#=$ around from time to time, but this is my daily driver so I need to know it will survive or find an affordable solution. Some suggestions are welcome... I already have 33"x12.5"x15"s.
A friend of mine in the Seattle area bought and installed the RC 4" lift. He blew off any advise on the matter and six months later removed and replaced it with a Rubicon Express kit.. That was a year ago.. This past spring he removed the RE suspension and installed the 2.5" OME suspension with 1.25" body lift with Currie control arms and stock track bars.. He's a pig headed sort of fellow, and has the money to burn, but in the end he is now very pleased with his set up.. Most of us don't have money to burn like that..... You are young yet, and if all you're doing is bopping around town and hitting the occasional trail you'll be ok. For us older dudes that take long trips and wheel off road for multiple days at a time, well, lemme just say, comfort is a top priority, and suspensions like RC and skyjacker deliver no comfort whatsoever.. The primary thing I have learned in the aftermarket jeep world is that you really do get what you pay for ... Thankfully, my darling wife goes on the trips with me, she doesn't even flinch at spending 1300 bucks on tires or 900 for good control arms, or for that matter anything else that makes our rig, our trailer or our campsite, more comfortable and reliable... But that's just us... You're wants may differ. My previous comments on the matter were only meant to help shorten your learning curve and save you a small pile of money...
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:05 AM   #71
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Yeah but the thing is, if you get spacers, you gotta get new bumpstops(if the kit doesn't already come with them) and you gotta get new shocks too, to do it right. Otherwise your going to cut down on total shock travel by a few inches and will in effect have only about an inch and a half downtravel. See what Im saying? So if you have the money to buy a BB spacer kit, bumpstops AND new shocks, might as well just spend a few more bucks by bypassing the spacers and getting coils.
Again I myself agree with what you are saying and think like you do. But this is the same arguement of people buying RC or Zone lift over spending a little extra money to get a OME or more quality lift. Or even going a little further and spending a little more and piecing together a top notch lift, with top of the line components from respectable companies. People on a tight budget are always going to see this as their best or only option.

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Little late to the party here. Quit the bickering. I appreciate all for not going too overboard. The thread seemed to turned back around so consider this the only warning-or it will be closed.

Carry on
I tried to hold back my smarta$$ remarks. LOL

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Originally Posted by NJO View Post
On the LOW end of the quality shock/spring combo looking at under $400: BDS Jeep Wrangler TJ/Rubicon 2" Front 2" Rear Lift Kit 97-06

As you yourself state a decent shock will cost a few bucks.......so how do you get decent shocks and a budget spacer boost for $229?
Just goes back to the point I made above.

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Is Rough Country's kit that horrible? I really just want to @#=$ around from time to time, but this is my daily driver so I need to know it will survive or find an affordable solution. Some suggestions are welcome... I already have 33"x12.5"x15"s.
I'll have to say that they are not known for their top of the line quality or good ride quality. Not to beat you up, but this is what myself and many others try to explain to you and many other noobs. There is a lot more that goes into lifting your Jeep than just buying a kit or adding springs and longer shocks. You have to have a better understanding of the suspension and vehicle dynamics. 4" is a lot of lift especially on a halfa$$ RC kit. I would suggest coming down on the SL a little bit 2" - 3" max and a BL. Also if you get a kit with control arms get something with JJ's or MC DF Joints. The kit will probably suffice for a little while but be prepared for a rough ride and to replace components with better quality ones.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:31 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by xgijosh View Post
Is Rough Country's kit that horrible? I really just want to @#=$ around from time to time, but this is my daily driver so I need to know it will survive or find an affordable solution. Some suggestions are welcome... I already have 33"x12.5"x15"s.
Especially since it is a Daily Driver, you will be better off and happier with a smoother riding suspension. If you look at lifted TJ's on used car lots, many of them have RC lifts...owners get tired of the ride and trade them in as they don't want to deal with it anymore. Really sad.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:40 AM   #73
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Looks like i missed my window to cancel the order and it will be here Monday. I'm not overly concerned about since this Jeep will be my learning curve so the next one can be that much better.

I do have another question for you all. I've been looking at the idea of doing a motor mount lift to further correct the pinion angles. Can I do this as a substitute for the transfer case drop? Should I do it in addition to the transfer case drop to help eliminate vibrations?
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:49 AM   #74
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Looks like i missed my window to cancel the order and it will be here Monday. I'm not overly concerned about since this Jeep will be my learning curve so the next one can be that much better.

I do have another question for you all. I've been looking at the idea of doing a motor mount lift to further correct the pinion angles. Can I do this as a substitute for the transfer case drop? Should I do it in addition to the transfer case drop to help eliminate vibrations?
Well to do the MML you are going to have to put a 1" BL on your Jeep, if you dont currently have one.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:50 AM   #75
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Looks like i missed my window to cancel the order and it will be here Monday. I'm not overly concerned about since this Jeep will be my learning curve so the next one can be that much better.

I do have another question for you all. I've been looking at the idea of doing a motor mount lift to further correct the pinion angles. Can I do this as a substitute for the transfer case drop? Should I do it in addition to the transfer case drop to help eliminate vibrations?
For 4" springs, if you install a MML, you will likely be able to reduce the amount of the TC drop (maybe 1/2 the amount as a rough guess) but you will still need a TC drop...or start planning for the SYE/CV.

3" springs a MML pretty much eliminates the need for a TC Drop...maybe just a "few washers thick" worth (1/4"- 3/8"?) if needed.
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Old 09-27-2013, 09:59 AM   #76
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Well to do the MML you are going to have to put a 1" BL on your Jeep, if you dont currently have one.
I don't think that is truly the case, because some just relocate the radiator/shroud instead of installing a BL.
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Old 09-27-2013, 10:16 AM   #77
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I don't think that is truly the case, because some just relocate the radiator/shroud instead of installing a BL.
Most of the MML I have looked at require a 1" BL. It might not be a requirement. I don't really know if there would be any clearance issues as i have not installed one myself and havent really researched it much without the BL.

To the OP either way, you are trying to fix a gunshot wound with a band-aid. As said a SYE/CV shaft is the proper solution to your problem. Then you need Adj. Upper CA to set pinion angle.
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Old 09-27-2013, 11:49 AM   #78
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Most of the MML I have looked at require a 1" BL. It might not be a requirement. I don't really know if there would be any clearance issues as i have not installed one myself and havent really researched it much without the BL.

To the OP either way, you are trying to fix a gunshot wound with a band-aid. As said a SYE/CV shaft is the proper solution to your problem. Then you need Adj. Upper CA to set pinion angle.
Having installed a 1.25" body lift and a 1" mml I honestly dont see how you would have room to not use a body lift. I have an electric fan so I didnt have to worry about the fan shroud issue but I barely had room to even install the mml with my body lift. It was the first time I had done this project but just eyeballing the firewall and transmission tunnel I dont know how you could do it without clearancing those areas. Maybe that's just me and my inexperience with the subject but I wouldnt try it personally
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:00 PM   #79
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Having installed a 1.25" body lift and a 1" mml I honestly dont see how you would have room to not use a body lift. I have an electric fan so I didnt have to worry about the fan shroud issue but I barely had room to even install the mml with my body lift. It was the first time I had done this project but just eyeballing the firewall and transmission tunnel I dont know how you could do it without clearancing those areas. Maybe that's just me and my inexperience with the subject but I wouldnt try it personally
That was my initial thought and concern, but like I said I dont have either of them and havnet looked into it enough to know for absolute. But everything that I saw required a 1" BL. But maybe Im wrong on that.
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:22 PM   #80
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For one, I'm happy to see that this thread has turned into an informative conversation, instead of one individual turning it into a bashing contest... I wish the best of luck to the OP, and for what it's worth an SYE and new rear shaft is your best solution ,,, just my 2cents !!
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:29 PM   #81
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For one, I'm happy to see that this thread has turned into an informative conversation, instead of one individual turning it into a bashing contest... I wish the best of luck to the OP, and for what it's worth an SYE and new rear shaft is your best solution ,,, just my 2cents !!
Agreed! A mml can help but I would plan for the opposite and be ready to install an sye and driveshaft... Also just as a side not if you do get a sye go ahead and get a short shaft so that your driveshaft will be longer. This will help with some of your driveline angles. .. I've got a rubi so I didnt have to worry about this but this is something that ive seen come up in multiple threads. May want to look into it
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Old 09-27-2013, 12:56 PM   #82
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Im in a similar situation, im a highschool student and dont have alot of money for a expensive set of tires, i can afford the lift but not another 1k for a set of five tires. So this is what im working with...

2"BB spacer with with shocks

ZJ front springs with 2" rear spacers

Im also considering a 1" BL to combine with either of the two choices i have stated above. Let me no if this is good or bad idea to combine the two and what i need to go abought this operation. I dont do but mild 4wheelin so no need for big lifts ATM.
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Old 09-27-2013, 01:05 PM   #83
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Im in a similar situation, im a highschool student and dont have alot of money for a expensive set of tires, i can afford the lift but not another 1k for a set of five tires. So this is what im working with...

2"BB spacer with with shocks

ZJ front springs with 2" rear spacers

Im also considering a 1" BL to combine with either of the two choices i have stated above. Let me no if this is good or bad idea to combine the two and what i need to go abought this operation. I dont do but mild 4wheelin so no need for big lifts ATM.
1" BL with 2" BB Spacers or ZJ springs is pretty common actually. Just don't forget to also get 4 bumpstop extensions too.
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Old 09-27-2013, 02:11 PM   #84
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Most of the MML I have looked at require a 1" BL. It might not be a requirement. I don't really know if there would be any clearance issues as i have not installed one myself and havent really researched it much without the BL.

To the OP either way, you are trying to fix a gunshot wound with a band-aid. As said a SYE/CV shaft is the proper solution to your problem. Then you need Adj. Upper CA to set pinion angle.
According to the technician with Rough Country, a body lift isn't necessary for the motor mount lift and it would sufficiently correct the pinion angle with new rear cam bolts. I know this isn't the ideal solution, but like idea of more clearance for the oil pan. I might still do the slip yoke eliminator and cv drive shaft down the road, but got lot learn about those two. Tom Woods has so many options, but appears to be the most desirable.
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Old 09-27-2013, 02:24 PM   #85
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You could opt for better shocks and that will help with the rough ride of the Rough Country lift.

Definately do the SYE and CV drive shaft. (it is ok to save up for the build and or build in stages) It took me about 9 months total to build my TJ, as I went in stages. I figure I will ride this way for about another year and then add Metalcloak fenders and go up to 35's.
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Old 09-27-2013, 03:05 PM   #86
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You could opt for better shocks and that will help with the rough ride of the Rough Country lift.

Definately do the SYE and CV drive shaft. (it is ok to save up for the build and or build in stages) It took me about 9 months total to build my TJ, as I went in stages. I figure I will ride this way for about another year and then add Metalcloak fenders and go up to 35's.
Agree RC springs are actually good and use rates that work well for a jeeps weight. Its their shocks and other add ons that are junk.
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:22 PM   #87
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Well...got the RC lift on and everything adjusted. It actually rides a little smoother than it did stock, but I can tell that there are somethings that I'm going to want to upgrade soon. I've been looking into getting a tummy tuck. Obviously I'm going to need to get that SYE/CV upgrade first and foremost, but if I'm not sure what to order. I figure I'll just call the nice people at Tom Woods let them guide me, but any suggestions from you all would be great. I imagine getting the MML might change the length of the drive shaft needed in the rear. Also, what kinds of issues should I worry about with the front driveline? I personally don't like the idea or look of a BL, but if that is required to do a proper tummy tuck so be it. Also, any suggestions on who makes a good transfer case plate for the tuck?
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Old 10-16-2013, 03:48 PM   #88
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Well...got the RC lift on and everything adjusted. It actually rides a little smoother than it did stock, but I can tell that there are somethings that I'm going to want to upgrade soon. I've been looking into getting a tummy tuck. Obviously I'm going to need to get that SYE/CV upgrade first and foremost, but if I'm not sure what to order. I figure I'll just call the nice people at Tom Woods let them guide me, but any suggestions from you all would be great. I imagine getting the MML might change the length of the drive shaft needed in the rear. Also, what kinds of issues should I worry about with the front driveline? I personally don't like the idea or look of a BL, but if that is required to do a proper tummy tuck so be it. Also, any suggestions on who makes a good transfer case plate for the tuck?
Before and after 1.25" body lift... wouldnt even notice it if I didnt have the steps. When I get the money metalcloak sliders are going on.

To answer your question the savvy under armor and undercoverfab both have good products from what ive read. I bought the savvy but have yet to install it yet I think it has a great design.

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Old 10-16-2013, 03:55 PM   #89
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Im going to run the metalcloak adjustables with a tom woods driveshaft and savvy under armor. Those are a couple pics of the pieces so you can get an idea of what you want to do.
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Old 10-16-2013, 05:00 PM   #90
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All good quality parts. Well done on the above purchases.

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2006 , diy , lift kit , rough country , upgrade

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