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Old 03-15-2014, 06:02 PM   #1
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Dome light still on with fuse#4 out

I have a 97 Sahara and today it was finally warm enough to take the top off. It's my first Spring with the Jeep and it's my first time pulling the #4 fuse (I was going to take the doors off too but will do that tomorrow). After pulling the #4 fuse, my courtesy lights on the floor and the light in the sound bar went off as they should. They now will come on when I twist the headlamp switch as they should.

Now here's the weird part. When I pulled into the garage and was in complete darkness, I noticed the light in the sound bar was dimly lit when exiting the Jeep. It didn't matter if the doors were open or closed. The courtesy lights were completely off, but the sound bar light was dimly lit. If I twist the headlight switch, the courtesy lights come on and the sound bar light goes to full brightness. If I put the number 4 fuse back in, it behaves as normal and all lights are completely off when doors are closed. I'm the 2nd owner of the Jeep and original owner was an older woman who kept it all stock and babied it, so I know she wasn't messing around with the wiring.

Now the only thing different, is a couple of weeks ago I swapped out the courtesy lamps and the sound bar lamp for LED's (which look great by the way). I have to find my old incandescent bulb for the sound bar light and put that in to see if it too lights dim with #4 fuse out. Could it be that a little current is always going to the sound bar light but you just don't notice with an incandescent bulb or is there something else going on here?

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Old 03-16-2014, 09:55 AM   #2
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So I found my incandescent bulb and put it back in and the dome light stays completely off and will only come on when turning the headlamp switch as it should. So there is a small amount of power still going to the some lamp even with #4 fuse pulled. It's just that an LED will actually light dimly off the current but it's not enough for an incandescent bulb to even dimly light.

I'm sure the current draw is so tiny that it's fine to just leave the LED in. It probably takes no more current then the blinking alarm light

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Old 03-16-2014, 10:35 AM   #3
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Your Jeep is possessed. An exorcism is needed. Go find large amounts of mud immediately.
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Old 03-17-2014, 06:09 AM   #4
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Your Jeep is possessed. An exorcism is needed. Go find large amounts of mud immediately.
Excellent reply. Cracked me up.

Sounds like 2 Ford trucks I've had. The dome light on some vehicles DO seem to get possessed, or something!
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Old 03-17-2014, 09:39 AM   #5
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So I found my incandescent bulb and put it back in and the dome light stays completely off and will only come on when turning the headlamp switch as it should. So there is a small amount of power still going to the some lamp even with #4 fuse pulled. It's just that an LED will actually light dimly off the current but it's not enough for an incandescent bulb to even dimly light.

I'm sure the current draw is so tiny that it's fine to just leave the LED in. It probably takes no more current then the blinking alarm light
FWIW, there is constant power to both dome light and courtesy lights. The switches are on the ground side of the circuit as is fuse #4. See my generic drawing. It sounds like maybe a stray wire strand in your yellow wire at your dome light may be making contact with ground...not really enough to carry current for an incandescent, but enough for a low wattage LED.
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Old 03-17-2014, 12:05 PM   #6
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Thanks Water Dog. That diagram is a huge help and it's nice to now understand how it's all wired up. But what I don't understand is, if there is a strand from my yellow wire at the dome light touching ground, then wouldn't the dome light still be dimly lit with the LED and the # 4 fuse in? The dim LED light only happens with the fuse out, if I put the fuse in, the light stays completely off. The diagram shows the door switches and #4 fuse at the end of the circuit. So I would think if there's ground touching somewhere, it would still light dimly regardless of #4 being in or out. I'm not sure about this, but I'm just trying to trace the path according to the diagram.

Thanks again for the help
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:14 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by Mudslidex View Post
Thanks Water Dog. That diagram is a huge help and it's nice to now understand how it's all wired up. But what I don't understand is, if there is a strand from my yellow wire at the dome light touching ground, then wouldn't the dome light still be dimly lit with the LED and the # 4 fuse in? The dim LED light only happens with the fuse out, if I put the fuse in, the light stays completely off. The diagram shows the door switches and #4 fuse at the end of the circuit. So I would think if there's ground touching somewhere, it would still light dimly regardless of #4 being in or out. I'm not sure about this, but I'm just trying to trace the path according to the diagram.

Thanks again for the help
I just have SOME of the answers, not all..... I don't have a clue about that fuse making a difference unless maybe it's that one of the door switches had the stray hair, but then your courtesy lamps should be dimly lit as well....It must be possessed as DMB suggested.
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:35 PM   #8
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I believe that is true about most of the lights - fuse being on the ground side. The tail/brake lights come to mind. I always thought it was rather funny Mopar would wire this way (maybe all vehicles are).

I know when I wired my boat, there is a fuse between the battery and the fuse block. Then I ran my wires to a accessories. I don't want to burn up the whole wire trying to blow that main fuse!
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Old 03-17-2014, 02:55 PM   #9
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I believe that is true about most of the lights - fuse being on the ground side. The tail/brake lights come to mind. I always thought it was rather funny Mopar would wire this way (maybe all vehicles are).

I know when I wired my boat, there is a fuse between the battery and the fuse block. Then I ran my wires to a accessories. I don't want to burn up the whole wire trying to blow that main fuse!
Actually the fuse that protects the circuit is on hot side, in the case of this drawing, it's the one towards the top. They simply use fuse #4 (like a switch) as a disconnect that breaks the circuit to ground. All fuses in your Jeep that protect circuits are on the hot side, it's just in some circuits they put the switches on the ground side.....heater controls come to mind.
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Old 03-17-2014, 05:46 PM   #10
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Actually the fuse that protects the circuit is on hot side, in the case of this drawing, it's the one towards the top. They simply use fuse #4 (like a switch) as a disconnect that breaks the circuit to ground. All fuses in your Jeep that protect circuits are on the hot side, it's just in some circuits they put the switches on the ground side.....heater controls come to mind.
I see, I read your drawing to state a 20 amp fuse when in reality, it is a 10 amp fuse (which made me think why have a 20 on the hot side and a 10 on the ground side). Can you tell my eye are old???

I read on another thread here (or over there ) about removing the wires from the switch and they stated they wouldn't be hot because they were on the ground side. Didn't make much sense to me unless he was talking about the ground side wire (not wires) of the switch leaving the hot side attached.
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Old 03-17-2014, 07:42 PM   #11
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It makes me wonder why did Jeep even bother with the #4 fuse? They should have just made it a switch from the beginning since that's all it's really doing anyway... But then that would make sense
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:08 PM   #12
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It makes me wonder why did Jeep even bother with the #4 fuse? They should have just made it a switch from the beginning since that's all it's really doing anyway... But then that would make sense
hum, that gives me an idea. I will have to look to see if one can install a small toggle switch wired ahead of fuse #4 behind the glove box. I know, why not just pull it but then again, "click!"
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Old 03-17-2014, 08:52 PM   #13
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hum, that gives me an idea. I will have to look to see if one can install a small toggle switch wired ahead of fuse #4 behind the glove box. I know, why not just pull it but then again, "click!"
Pull the two screws at the top of the fuse box, and that will allow you to access the wires that go to the fuse box. Find two black wires that go to the same terminal on fuse #4, then strip back some of the tape on the wire harness that they are in. Cut those two wires leaving you enough to work with. Splice one new piece of 16 gauge black wire along with the two that go to the fuse box, and splice another new black 16 gauge wire to the other two. I usually use solder and heat shrink, but you could use crimp connectors. Replace the fuse box, and attach the end of each of your new wires to at least a 10 amp rated switch in a location of your choosing. I mounted mine in a small piece of aluminum flat bar and screwed it right next to the passenger side courtesy light on the bottom of the dash.
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Old 03-17-2014, 10:50 PM   #14
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I should have known you had already done it Water Dog!!!
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:45 AM   #15
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I just remove the bulb when I remove the doors.
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Old 03-18-2014, 08:28 AM   #16
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I just remove the bulb when I remove the doors.
But then the light won't turn on. If you remove the fuse the lights will still come on if you turn them on at the stalk, but not when the doors are open/off.

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