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Old 10-04-2012, 09:25 PM   #1
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Duraliner

To get dura liner on the inside of my jeep. How much would it be to hire somebody to do it? How hard would it be to do myself?

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Old 10-04-2012, 10:06 PM   #2
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Over the last week, I've gotten several quotes from professional installers and a couple guys who do it at work and wanted to make some extra cash on the side. They use Rhino-Liner, Line-X, and another brand I've forgotten the name of and the prices were all about the same $450 for the interior of a Jeep with professional Rhino install coming in at $850. They all said the cost was mostly in the labor because there are actually quite a few things to remove out and plug up before you line it. I felt that was still too expensive so I tried a DIY kit from O'Reilly's Auto Parts that cost just over $100. Unfortunately, the can I got had the fibers (that create the textured look) stuck together so my application didn't come out looking right. I'm a bit of a perfectionist when it comes to things like this, so I'm now sanding down the textured parts and I'm going to have it done professionally. Hopefully, since I've already removed everything, they'll give me a better price break. Best of luck to you.

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Old 10-04-2012, 10:19 PM   #3
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I have never heard of duraliner but I did Monstaliner because I could do it myself. It's not the quality or finish of LineX or Rhino pro jobs, but it is probably about as effective and I can repair myself if needed. I got the kit for I think $100 and it came with everything I needed. Like JTsTJ said, most of the cost is in labor and if you do it yourself you'll find out why. I spent at least 8 hours on prep work between removing everything, cleaning, sanding, cleaning again, plugging up holes, and taping off. Then I spent another 2 hours applying. However, I've spent hours upon hours enjoying it!
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:37 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by BLK00TJ
I have never heard of duraliner but I did Monstaliner because I could do it myself. It's not the quality or finish of LineX or Rhino pro jobs, but it is probably about as effective and I can repair myself if needed. I got the kit for I think $100 and it came with everything I needed. Like JTsTJ said, most of the cost is in labor and if you do it yourself you'll find out why. I spent at least 8 hours on prep work between removing everything, cleaning, sanding, cleaning again, plugging up holes, and taping off. Then I spent another 2 hours applying. However, I've spent hours upon hours enjoying it!
And that's why you own a jeep! I'll be doing monstaliner myself pretty soon. What's the one thing I should know before starting?
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Old 10-04-2012, 10:58 PM   #5
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And that's why you own a jeep! I'll be doing monstaliner myself pretty soon. What's the one thing I should know before starting?
Prep, prep, prep.

Prep
  • Don't apply in direct sunlight or if it is too hot. It'll affect the cure time. I bought a huge tarp (15'x30') since I scheduled a day off work and it ended up being sunny and put it over the Jeep and staked it down.
  • Take out everything that can be taken out. Put bolts/screws/nuts into bags and tape it to the stuff that comes out. Seatbelts and wiring that goes down the drivers side can be taped up out of the way.
  • Clean as good as you can with Dawn dish detergent. It'll cut through a lot of grease (not all) and help get rid of the accumulated crud that has built up under the carpet.
  • Degrease with MEK or acetone.
  • Tape off so you don't sand outside of the area you intend to apply.
  • Sand until the shine is gone and use criss-crossing strokes (like a checkerboard). I used a rougher pad than what was supplied to make it easier.
  • Clean again with dish soap
  • Degrease again and make sure you hit everything you intend to apply to.
  • Double check looking for shiney spots and hit them again.
Application

  • Mix for longer than the directions say too (it comes with a mixing thing to put on a drill)
  • Pour a little bit into the tray at a time and keep the lid on the bucket. It should be enough to cover 1/4 of the bed.
  • Stir before adding more to the tray (I didn't do this and ended up with some clumps near the end).
  • After I finished 1st coat, I started on the second from the beginning (I should have waited another 30 minutes)
  • Remove tape immediately after 2nd coat.
  • Wait 24 hours before trying to re-install stuff.
  • Some have claimed that sprinkling water on it after a few hours helps the curing process.
It'll smell for a while as it cures. Mine took longer since I didn't wait long enough between coats.
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:18 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ
Prep, prep, prep.

Prep

[*]Don't apply in direct sunlight or if it is too hot. It'll affect the cure time. I bought a huge tarp (15'x30') since I scheduled a day off work and it ended up being sunny and put it over the Jeep and staked it down.[*]Take out everything that can be taken out. Put bolts/screws/nuts into bags and tape it to the stuff that comes out. Seatbelts and wiring that goes down the drivers side can be taped up out of the way.[*]Clean as good as you can with Dawn dish detergent. It'll cut through a lot of grease (not all) and help get rid of the accumulated crud that has built up under the carpet.[*]Degrease with MEK or acetone.[*]Tape off so you don't sand outside of the area you intend to apply.[*]Sand until the shine is gone and use criss-crossing strokes (like a checkerboard). I used a rougher pad than what was supplied to make it easier.[*]Clean again with dish soap[*]Degrease again and make sure you hit everything you intend to apply to.[*]Double check looking for shiney spots and hit them again.

Application

[*]Mix for longer than the directions say too (it comes with a mixing thing to put on a drill)[*]Pour a little bit into the tray at a time and keep the lid on the bucket. It should be enough to cover 1/4 of the bed.[*]Stir before adding more to the tray (I didn't do this and ended up with some clumps near the end).[*]After I finished 1st coat, I started on the second from the beginning (I should have waited another 30 minutes)[*]Remove tape immediately after 2nd coat.[*]Wait 24 hours before trying to re-install stuff.[*]Some have claimed that sprinkling water on it after a few hours helps the curing process.

It'll smell for a while as it cures. Mine took longer since I didn't wait long enough between coats.
By tape what do you mean? Do you have pictures?
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:18 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ
Prep, prep, prep.

Prep

[*]Don't apply in direct sunlight or if it is too hot. It'll affect the cure time. I bought a huge tarp (15'x30') since I scheduled a day off work and it ended up being sunny and put it over the Jeep and staked it down.[*]Take out everything that can be taken out. Put bolts/screws/nuts into bags and tape it to the stuff that comes out. Seatbelts and wiring that goes down the drivers side can be taped up out of the way.[*]Clean as good as you can with Dawn dish detergent. It'll cut through a lot of grease (not all) and help get rid of the accumulated crud that has built up under the carpet.[*]Degrease with MEK or acetone.[*]Tape off so you don't sand outside of the area you intend to apply.[*]Sand until the shine is gone and use criss-crossing strokes (like a checkerboard). I used a rougher pad than what was supplied to make it easier.[*]Clean again with dish soap[*]Degrease again and make sure you hit everything you intend to apply to.[*]Double check looking for shiney spots and hit them again.

Application

[*]Mix for longer than the directions say too (it comes with a mixing thing to put on a drill)[*]Pour a little bit into the tray at a time and keep the lid on the bucket. It should be enough to cover 1/4 of the bed.[*]Stir before adding more to the tray (I didn't do this and ended up with some clumps near the end).[*]After I finished 1st coat, I started on the second from the beginning (I should have waited another 30 minutes)[*]Remove tape immediately after 2nd coat.[*]Wait 24 hours before trying to re-install stuff.[*]Some have claimed that sprinkling water on it after a few hours helps the curing process.

It'll smell for a while as it cures. Mine took longer since I didn't wait long enough between coats.
What would I be taping down?
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:24 PM   #8
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Taping = Masking

So you don't apply outside of the area you are wanting to apply. Around door jambs, rollbars, and around the outside of the tub.

I didn't take picture of the process. Just these



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Old 10-04-2012, 11:32 PM   #9
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Here's a picture of mine masked off. It's to keep the paint off everything you don't want it on. I had my tub lined professionally. But got white. It's got dirty quickly so I just recently applied black over it. So I guess I've got the best of both worlds. Haha GL
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:38 PM   #10
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Would it be recommended to do it professionally or just DIY?
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Old 10-04-2012, 11:38 PM   #11
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I don't mind hard work at all
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Old 10-09-2012, 12:44 AM   #12
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Hey guys, thanks for the input. Getting ready to start my winter projects and monstaliner it is!!! Hopefully the tub turns out like i plan, bc i really want to do the exterior as well. Please post again if any issues arise with the monstaliner in your jeep, might catch me before i spray.
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Old 10-09-2012, 08:40 AM   #13
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When masking off, use the painter's tape from Lowe's or HD. It sticks, but not so much that you screw up the existing paint. BE SURE YOU GET IT DOWN SECURELY. You do NOT want anything seeping underneath.

I talked directly with the vendor on the curing. Water DOES help, as does a humid area, such as a garage in the summer. I did mine in May 2010 with Monstaliner and the humidity was great. I spritzed it with a spray water bottle every few hours or so. Since I had another vehicle, I let it sit for nearly a week before putting anything back in.

Overkill? Yep. But because I could.

When masking, you really don't need to use the plastic stuff as shown above - that is more for spraying. But if you're a mess with a roller, it wouldn't be a bad idea.

I have a thread on here detailing the steps I went through to do the Monstaliner. This may help. There are a LOT of photos.

http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/new-...ner-49355.html
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Old 10-09-2012, 09:18 AM   #14
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Before you make your final decision on bed lining your tub, take a look at BedTred or BedRug. I helped my nephew put Durabak in his jeep, it was a long drawn out process (lots stuff to take apart, lots of broken bolts, sanding, cleaning, the application itself).... and IMO, it doesn't clean very well after a day on the trail running topless. I decided to go a different route- I got the BedTred and I love it.

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Old 10-09-2012, 10:53 AM   #15
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Check to see if you have a "Armadillo Liner" dealer near you. I had mine sprayed at 1/2 price of LineX and Rhino Liner. Mine cost $225 to do the inside of the tub. Also comes with a LIFETIME warranty. I removed everything from inside first and help the guy tape everything else. Headed back home in about 3 hours.
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Old 10-09-2012, 01:39 PM   #16
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The Monstaliner is INCREDIBLY easy to clean - it's not like the Herculiner or Duraliner texture. It is textured, but no deep grooves to trap dir and such.
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Old 10-09-2012, 03:58 PM   #17
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I did monstaliner last year. All the prep work seems like a prison sentence when you're in the middle of it, but take your time, apply it correctly and the results are AWESOME!

If I had it to do over again I would've changed out the foam texture rollers more often. Once they start to fall apart you need to stop using it because they are about to disintegrate. I spent way too much time picking foam bits out of my fresh coat of liner.

In retrospect I wish I had been more bold in my color selection. The desert sand looks great but they have so many colors to choose from I wish I had done something more colorful. Oh well.

Also make sure the area is WELL ventilated. After all the MEK and monstaliner, I was pretty loopy and I had good ventilation.

Oh and if you get some monstaliner on anything you didn't mean to, you have to clean it up with MEK quick. I have a few bits on the garage floor that are permanent now....
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Old 10-10-2012, 12:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
Prep, prep, prep.

Prep
  • Don't apply in direct sunlight or if it is too hot. It'll affect the cure time. I bought a huge tarp (15'x30') since I scheduled a day off work and it ended up being sunny and put it over the Jeep and staked it down.
  • Take out everything that can be taken out. Put bolts/screws/nuts into bags and tape it to the stuff that comes out. Seatbelts and wiring that goes down the drivers side can be taped up out of the way.
  • Clean as good as you can with Dawn dish detergent. It'll cut through a lot of grease (not all) and help get rid of the accumulated crud that has built up under the carpet.
  • Degrease with MEK or acetone.
  • Tape off so you don't sand outside of the area you intend to apply.
  • Sand until the shine is gone and use criss-crossing strokes (like a checkerboard). I used a rougher pad than what was supplied to make it easier.
  • Clean again with dish soap
  • Degrease again and make sure you hit everything you intend to apply to.
  • Double check looking for shiney spots and hit them again.
Application

  • Mix for longer than the directions say too (it comes with a mixing thing to put on a drill)
  • Pour a little bit into the tray at a time and keep the lid on the bucket. It should be enough to cover 1/4 of the bed.
  • Stir before adding more to the tray (I didn't do this and ended up with some clumps near the end).
  • After I finished 1st coat, I started on the second from the beginning (I should have waited another 30 minutes)
  • Remove tape immediately after 2nd coat.
  • Wait 24 hours before trying to re-install stuff.
  • Some have claimed that sprinkling water on it after a few hours helps the curing process.
It'll smell for a while as it cures. Mine took longer since I didn't wait long enough between coats.
Is 2 coats enough or do you mean to make sure you remove the tape after your final coat? I understand if 2 coats is all you wanted to do, but what if i wanted to do 3? Also, is spraying it or rolling it better...maybe pro's and cons of each? I just want to make sure to have my ducks in a row. TIA!
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Old 10-10-2012, 03:47 PM   #19
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Two coats is all you need, if you wanted to do three I don't see any reason why you can't. The kit they sell which includes 1 can of liner will do 2 good coats and have a bit left over for touchups so you'd have to buy some extra for that 3rd coat.

It is easy and effective to roll and paintbrush it on, you can spray it if you want by diluting it with some MEK and using a cheap airgun. I've seen an airgun application and it is indistinguisable from a roll on application. It would be a tad less work to spray it but you would have to mask off more.
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Old 10-10-2012, 07:45 PM   #20
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Is 2 coats enough or do you mean to make sure you remove the tape after your final coat? I understand if 2 coats is all you wanted to do, but what if i wanted to do 3? Also, is spraying it or rolling it better...maybe pro's and cons of each? I just want to make sure to have my ducks in a row. TIA!
2 coats are enough, but you'll want to use the whole can until it's gone because the catalyst will harden it up in the can. You want to remove the tape before it has time to harden up too much. I had enough to do 3 coats on the high traffic areas like the floorboards and the back bed.
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:37 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by RubiCobra View Post
Two coats is all you need, if you wanted to do three I don't see any reason why you can't. The kit they sell which includes 1 can of liner will do 2 good coats and have a bit left over for touchups so you'd have to buy some extra for that 3rd coat.

It is easy and effective to roll and paintbrush it on, you can spray it if you want by diluting it with some MEK and using a cheap airgun. I've seen an airgun application and it is indistinguisable from a roll on application. It would be a tad less work to spray it but you would have to mask off more.
Quote:
Originally Posted by BLK00TJ View Post
2 coats are enough, but you'll want to use the whole can until it's gone because the catalyst will harden it up in the can. You want to remove the tape before it has time to harden up too much. I had enough to do 3 coats on the high traffic areas like the floorboards and the back bed.
OK, Thanks guys! Stoked to get this done!!!
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Old 10-10-2012, 09:40 PM   #22
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Duralines, Monsterliner, etc. is on my list of things to do this winter.

Anyone have any experience applying this stuff in the winter? I'd be in a garage, but the temperature wouldn't be much above 50... Thoughts?
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Old 10-11-2012, 08:55 AM   #23
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Personally, I'd wait until you can do it in a warmer environment. Not saying it won't work, but these things generally need it to be a bit warmer for best curing.

Any way to heat your garage for a while?
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Old 10-11-2012, 12:24 PM   #24
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I think I can figure something out

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