I was coming back from Miami over the weekend, while driving 75 the engine cut out a couple times. No engine lights, 1/2 tank of gas I slowed down pulled into a rest area, under the hood looked as ok as you can tell without test equipment. I noticed if I drove slower, that I didn't have the engine cutting out. When I drove faster it would start cuttung out again.
I got back on the road, 120 miles from home thinking "The Closer I Get, The Shorter The Tow"
I was thinking maybe my fuel pump with 215,000 miles on it was dying so I filled the tank and kept it full till I got home.
I spent more than normal, I went to the dealer. I think 68. But I wanted the hardware too. I read on here (Yes I actually used the search tool and they said to buy the factory one. It is hit or miss on Auto Parts stores quality.
I got one off rockauto that seems to be holding up just fine. Mine threw codes before it went though, and generally they have more issues at idle or while changing speed.
Since you said you had more issues at higher speed, i would lean towards a fuel starve condition. Either dying pump or clogged filter. It would be able to deliver enough fuel to keep the Jeep running at idle and lower speeds, but not keep up at high speeds.
Maybe pressure check it while revving the engine to see if it drops significantly?
I just spoke to my Jeep /Chrysler dealer, the price for a TPS is $120 with a discount. He didn't think it would fix my problem either, he was thinking more along the 'Distributor Plate' or computer as the problem.
I would think either would give me an engine light....your thoughts?
I'll second the Distributor Ignition Pickup - I've had it with a past (Chrylser) vehicle, running fine and engine just dies. Coast to the side and restart and seems fine. When it happens it's like a light switch - On then Off.
A fuel delivery problem (pump, regulator, filter) usually display themselves with a degrade or progressive loss in power. An abrupt loss (and restore) of power leads me to believe ignition issue. The ignition pickup is an item that can easily be changed (5 min) for a reasonable cost ($25). I'm willing to bet crallscars has a 5 speed and the engine refires being it's "hooked-up". With my previous vehicle it was and automatic would JUST DIE and I would have to use the key to restart. It also became more of a problem (more frequent) with higher (under hood) temps.
Thanks for the replies. Yes it's a 5 speed, and when it failed it was a brief on off on, and did it a few times in a row. I reduced speed and noticed it only if I increased speed. I topped off the tank and didin't notice it again, although I kept my speed down.
Wouldn't an ignition problem turn on the service engine light?
Let me revise that statement - it won't put up a code but, it can be seen by a scan tool if it has TOTALLY failed. Then your engine will crank fine - but you'll have no spark and won't run. The computer doesn't see a fault because it doesn't know the engine is going around. It records things out of spec (codes) only when the engine is running. Being it doesn't see the rotation it doesn't see a fault.
If it shut off and came back on - just like flipping a switch - REAL ADBRUPT - Then yes, replace it. I fought with my vehicle for a couple of months before I was directed to replace it (by the parts manager at the dealer desk.) No real pattern - some days fine others it would show up - then go away again. Replaced it and cured.