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Old 06-07-2011, 06:33 PM   #1
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Finally Coating the inside of my TJ...

This thread will just serve as a work thread for my TJ at the moment and to give anybody information if they decide to tackle the same project.

When I bought my beloved '97 TJ several months ago, there was no carpet inside and there was some slight surface rust in the floor boards and around the roll bar mounts. Additionally, there were several jagged holes in the back cargo area where something had once been welded and then was removed by getting pulled off....I had these repaired at a body shop a little while back but it still didn't look quite uniform back there.

My goal in this project was to take care of any future rust issues, make the tub more aesthetically pleasing, save a bit of money over the more expensive methods, and not take up a tremendous amount of my personal time. If cost were irrelevant, I probably would have just dropped it off at the Line-X dealer and told them to have at it. My issue with this is that it would obviously be much more expensive than doing it myself and I would not have the personal satisfaction of saying I did it. I will also be reinstalling carpet into my front floorboards and rear passenger floorboard, but I am leaving the cargo area coated with no carpet. Many fellow Jeepers might scoff at that approach but that's how I want it so I don't really care . There are few times when I will be getting a tremendous amount of water in my floorboards and, if I do, I will simply pull the carpet and plugs out to let it dry. The main thing is that it is protected underneath the carpet from rust!

My first step was to remove all of the seats and center console. As most of you know, it's not always fun removing bolts and screws that have been in their place for 14 years....someone must have spilled a lot of drinks in the cup holder because there was nothing for me to grab hold of there (drilled it out) and I also broke off one of the welded nuts underneath the tub which served to bolt the passenger side seat down (was able to get my Sawzall between the seat frame and floor on that one). Once that was done, I had the privilege of cleaning up 14 years of dirt, grease, and grime from most areas. Using industrial degreaser in a spray bottle, I wiped everything down, and then wiped everything down again twice with water. I then sanded all areas to be painted with 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper and then followed up again with a wipe down of water. Following that step, I got the tiny crevices with brake cleaner that I was unable to reach earlier. For the final wipe down before applying coatings, I used MEK on a rag. This is pretty nasty stuff, so make sure you've got pretty good ventilation and change out your gloves often....it eats through nitrile gloves like crazy!!

After cleaning:




Once I was done cleaning, sanding, and degreasing, I used a rust converter/primer on the areas that needed it. The product I chose to use is called Corroseal. It completely disable the rust and converts it over, while at the same time primes it. I work for a tugboat company and this stuff works wonders on any rusted steel! We've tried many different products but found none to be better than Corroseal. Anyway, I had to wait 24 hours before topcoating the Corroseal with anything so I decided to take the time to mask everything off at that point. I never realized that masking is so much work!

Last night, I was able to apply my first coat of protective epoxy. The coating I've chosen is called International Intertuf 262....I've seen the capabilities of this coating first hand and it is pretty amazing stuff. We use it as a primer mostly but we also sometimes use it as a topcoat when we want a more dull rather than gloss finish. Prolonged exposure to salt water cannot damage it (it's rated for permanent underwater service) and it is very, very durable. One quart pretty much covered the whole tub, and I'll probably put 1 or 2 more coats down for good measure.

Intertuf 262:


I'll update y'all with more pics as the work progresses!

-Wes

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Old 06-07-2011, 06:55 PM   #2
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That sounds like some good stuff. You can come spray mine when your done!

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Old 06-07-2011, 07:36 PM   #3
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I forgot to mention that my application method is roller/bru
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Old 06-07-2011, 10:50 PM   #4
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Looks good.
I'm thinking of doing mine soon.
Keep posting pics to keep us updated.
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Old 06-08-2011, 02:31 PM   #5
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what did you do about covering the drain plugs?
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Old 06-08-2011, 03:17 PM   #6
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what did you do about covering the drain plugs?
I pulled every single drain plug that I could find and I will reinstall them when I'm done. Rust develops between those rubber drain plugs and the floor pan so I wanted to make sure and arrest that problem. The only plugs I didn't remove were the few permanent metal ones which I just painted over (the previous owner actually removed the majority of the oval metal ones and I had to get the proper rubber plugs to put back in).

This is where I stand at the moment. I took the evening off last night but I'll hit it again after work today...you can see where I ran out of paint on my first quart but that will be all taken care of today:



-Wes
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Old 06-08-2011, 04:04 PM   #7
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just a sugestion, I lined my jeep a few years ago and really wish that I had done the lip around the bed and the steps under the doors.
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Old 06-10-2011, 09:57 AM   #8
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just a sugestion, I lined my jeep a few years ago and really wish that I had done the lip around the bed and the steps under the doors.
Yeah that would be nice, but I decided to not go all out....although with the effort already put into it I maybe should have done that.

-Wes
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Old 06-10-2011, 10:19 AM   #9
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Okay finally got the second coat on last night and it is much more consistent now.

I changed my roller design from a 4" foam cabinet roller (like these: Shop WHIZZ 4" Cabinet & Doors Foam Contractor 10 PK at Lowes.com ) over to a conventional 4" trim roller (like these: Shop Wooster 2-Pack 3/8" Nap High Capacity Roller Covers at Lowes.com ) . I also changed my brush over from a foam brush to a natural bristle chip brush....the reason I had to do this is because the Intertuf 262 was eating up the foam and I had to keep changing them out. The new combination worked much better and I actually like the texture quite a bit more; the texture is decently rough, but nothing that would be uncomfortable to bare skin.

I'm pretty impressed by this Intertuf 262....not too shabby for a $21 gallon of paint! It would probably cost much more than that outside of the commercial sector, but they're used to us buying hundreds of gallons at a time....I sort of got that discount along with it.

A few pics:

Part B:


Part A added to Part B (obviously before mixing):


You can see some areas that are wetter than others:






Sorry for the bad picture quality; those were from my iPhone so I'll take some with a real camera once I'm done. I'll be putting my third and final coat on this evening, and then after a 15 hour cure time I should be ready to start bolting stuff back in. I'll keep y'all posted.

-Wes
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Old 06-12-2011, 05:33 PM   #10
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Looks good, nice to have it finished huh? jj
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Old 06-13-2011, 12:45 PM   #11
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So how is the texture with this stuff? Scrape the skin off your leg rough like Herculiner, semi rough but a bit smoother like Line-X, or smooth like regular paint just thicker? Looks like good stuff, just can't see the texture from the pics. Also, can you spray it on?
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:56 PM   #12
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Looks good, nice to have it finished huh? jj
Sure is!

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So how is the texture with this stuff? Scrape the skin off your leg rough like Herculiner, semi rough but a bit smoother like Line-X, or smooth like regular paint just thicker? Looks like good stuff, just can't see the texture from the pics. Also, can you spray it on?
My 3/8" nap roller did a pretty good job of making texture but it's still sort of smooth so it wont hurt your skin. One of my friends has a Herculined bed and it's some rough stuff...this texture is nowhere near that abrasive. I'll try to get some closeups of the texture for you. This coating is actually designed to be sprayed but you would have to use a texture sprayer since it's so thick. It would probably ruin the gun too, since it seems to be pretty unaffected by most solvents. I did accidentally scuff my new paint while wrestling my back seat into place yesterday; it didn't actually cut into the finish at all (I couldn't feel the mark with my fingernail) but it did leave sort of a small gray mark.

-Wes
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Old 06-13-2011, 03:58 PM   #13
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Sounds good; looking at doing this soon myself. Either something like this or maybe the raptor kit; many have had success with that.
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Old 06-17-2011, 10:57 PM   #14
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These should give you a good idea of the texture that 3/8" nap roller laid down:











-Wes
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Old 06-17-2011, 11:06 PM   #15
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Looks good, and nice and smooth! let us know how it holds up. Ive been planning this for a while but, I never have time off work to have my jeep down.
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Old 06-18-2011, 05:18 PM   #16
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My only 2 question's are these. 1st, the parking brake handle has got a rubber boot on it that's as tough as steel to get off. How'd you do it and did it survive to go back on ?

2nd, removing the rear seat is a breeze. But the front one's are all connected to the seat belt system. How did you get them off and not screw up the seat belt system ? I got a 99 and I even try to go near the front's and a series of wires come out from the seat belt area and underseat. The last thing I wanna do is jam myself with a DIY that has me going to a dealer 'cause I screwed the pooch !!
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Old 06-18-2011, 07:19 PM   #17
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My only 2 question's are these. 1st, the parking brake handle has got a rubber boot on it that's as tough as steel to get off. How'd you do it and did it survive to go back on ?

2nd, removing the rear seat is a breeze. But the front one's are all connected to the seat belt system. How did you get them off and not screw up the seat belt system ? I got a 99 and I even try to go near the front's and a series of wires come out from the seat belt area and underseat. The last thing I wanna do is jam myself with a DIY that has me going to a dealer 'cause I screwed the pooch !!
Your '99 must be set up a bit differently from mine. The parking brake handle has no boot on it (it's set up like the t-case handle). Are you saying that the seat belt retractor is tied into your seat?? All I had was a wire going to the seat belt on the driver's seat which was easily disconnected by a connector next to the seat. That is tied into a harness that connects to the parking brake, and once that is disconnected you can move it out of the way by taking out 2 screw and a couple little plastic brackets.

-Wes
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Old 06-21-2011, 10:57 AM   #18
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where did you buy the intertuf? looked on line and listed 5L for 1500.00 I have ordered the Herculiner and definitely want red. But I like the look of this and am now worried about the roughness. any suggestions would help
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Old 06-21-2011, 11:06 AM   #19
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Herculiner is definitely very rough, which is why I didn't care for it; that's the main reason why I am using Monstaliner on my Jeep. The Herc on my truck was very rough, and over time it started to look much worse. The rubber particles make it difficult to keep clean.
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Old 06-22-2011, 03:56 PM   #20
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Herculiner is definitely very rough, which is why I didn't care for it; that's the main reason why I am using Monstaliner on my Jeep. The Herc on my truck was very rough, and over time it started to look much worse. The rubber particles make it difficult to keep clean.
Thanks for the input, I imagine the herculiner is going back and Monstaliner to be on the way. Just wish I would have mede a better decision, now another week before the pan is lined. some times I am a big dummy
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Old 06-22-2011, 04:05 PM   #21
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No problem; I made the same mistake, only I couldn't return it to get my money back. If you want more info on Monstaliner, checkout the thread over on JeepForum.com:

Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed Liner - JeepForum.com
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Old 06-26-2011, 07:08 PM   #22
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I did the herculiner white. It's alright. It is a little rough and difficult to clean. But hey it's a jeep. Nobody said they were clean and comfy.

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