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Old 05-21-2012, 06:56 PM   #1
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Thumbs up First Tune Up

so i bought my 01 I6 5spd 111xxx mi(now) TJ about a month ago...
looking to do its first oil change/tune up/fluid swap...
i know it currently has a fram oil filter and unknown fluids
also unknown when its last oil and fluids change was

so! with that...im looking to make a reccommended list of parts for the oil change/tune up/fluid swap

can anyone help me? if your giving links im going to be going to oreillys
PS:anything else i should change out i havent thought of?

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Old 05-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #2
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Wix filter, castrol high mileage oil
Air filter
Check belt
Change fluids in both diffs
change fluid in trans
Congrats on your purchase, now your hooked! Keep the wallet open!

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Old 05-21-2012, 07:08 PM   #3
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It would be a good idea to change plugs as well.
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:27 PM   #4
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You can go as far as you want with this service. Me, I went all out. And I feel good for doing it as it gave me a real good base to go on for where I'm at with my 124,000 mile 97 sahara. Use good oil. My favorite conventional oil would be GTX. My TJ currently has Royal Purple (from the previous owner) but I will be switching back to Mobil 1 cause its cheaper and I trust it more. Definitely change the plugs and do not use Bosch. I used Champions in mine when I changed it last and it runs great. The front cylinder will require an extension and a universal joint. Other than that it is an easy change out (max 15 minutes). I would recommend an AC Delco air filter and I personally would never use Fram oil filters. I would recommend you clean your throttle body (easy 15 minute job) when you clean the air filter. Drain the coolant and replace with pre-mixed (whatevers on sale but I usually use prestone).
Might as well remove and clean the Oxygen sensors while you are at it. There are two- one by the exhaust manifold and one further down pipe before the muffler and above the transmission skid plate. Now would be a good time to take a high pressure water hose, some simple green and a scrub brush under it and do your best clean and remove any mud, sand, grease grime road debris etc from the chassis. After it dries you may want to go back with a wire brush/wire wheel and some rust inhibitor paint for the undercarriage. Change out all the fluids in the trans transfer and differentials with the OEM recommended weight oils. Remember to get gaskets for your diff covers and wipe down/remove any grit or metal shavings you find in the diffs. Grease all fittings while your under it.

Inspect all of the hoses under the hood. Start from the 12 o clock position and work your way around inspecting every hose from connection to connection. Many of these will be vacuum hoses and prone to cracking or just plain falling off resulting in a myriad of problems for the TJ owner. Look for cracks, dry rot etc. To keep track of which I have inspected I use a rag with a little bit of tire spray or armor all to wipe them down as I go along tracing them. This ensures I don't miss any as all the ones I have inspected are clean and shiny. Next inspect the wiring. Clockwise under the hood and also under the dash. Look for cracks/splits etc and tape up or cleans up anything that looks wrong. Check the fuseboxes in the cab and under hood. Cross reference with the manual and ensure all locations not only have a fuse but that it is the correct fuse.
Rotate (and air up) the tires and inspect the brakes while the tires are off. Replacing front disc pads is easy. If it needs em change em. Rear shoes don't go as frequently but it does happen. It is a little trickier but can be done. I changed front pads in a matter of minutes and braking is improved a lot as a result. There is a fuel filter in a TJ but it's inside the Fuel tank and I have not changed mine out yet.

When the service is finished if you want to degrease and clean the engine bay my recommendation is to do it on a bright sunny day. Use 50/50 water and simple green again and when you are finished cleaning the engine remove the fuse box cover, open the hood all the way till it is resting against the windshield and push the vehicle out into the sun so it is directly in the sun (cook off all the water). Give it an hour. Go grab a beer or two. Once you are sure its dried out start it up and let it idle. Listen for anything awry and go from there.

If you can, do a miles per gallon test before and after the service. Top off the tank, drive a good 50-100 mile distance and top off again. Record the odomet reading before and after and save the receipts for both fill ups. Do the same after the service and see what difference you made if any. Mine went from 13 mpg (after plug change) to 17.1 mpg. I drove the same exact route at the same exact speed.

Hope this helps. I posted up a thread on my service last month if you want to see what all I did in addition to what I listed here.
Good luck man!
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Old 05-21-2012, 07:50 PM   #5
Knows a couple things...

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One thing to keep in mind is that 2000 and newer 4.0L engines are fairly fussy about what type of spark plugs it will run welll on. And the problem is that some lists of recommended plugs are not correct and some of the recommended plugs won't perform well for as long as they should.

I can give you three plugs that are known to work well and all three will last over 100K miles. The last plug in this list will probably outlast your Jeep. Champion 7034, Autolite APP-985, or the latest iridium technology, the Autolite XP-985.

Some lists will recommend the Autolite AP-985 and Champion 3034, neither of which are the right kind of plug so avoid them.

Finally, avoid gimmicky junk-science plugs like E3, Splitfire, or Bosch Plus 2 or Plus 4 plugs.

Have fun!
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:04 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BurlySoldier View Post
You can go as far as you want with this service. Me, I went all out. And I feel good for doing it as it gave me a real good base to go on for where I'm at with my 124,000 mile 97 sahara. Use good oil. My favorite conventional oil would be GTX. My TJ currently has Royal Purple (from the previous owner) but I will be switching back to Mobil 1 cause its cheaper and I trust it more. Definitely change the plugs and do not use Bosch. I used Champions in mine when I changed it last and it runs great. The front cylinder will require an extension and a universal joint. Other than that it is an easy change out (max 15 minutes). I would recommend an AC Delco air filter and I personally would never use Fram oil filters. I would recommend you clean your throttle body (easy 15 minute job) when you clean the air filter. Drain the coolant and replace with pre-mixed (whatevers on sale but I usually use prestone).
Might as well remove and clean the Oxygen sensors while you are at it. There are two- one by the exhaust manifold and one further down pipe before the muffler and above the transmission skid plate. Now would be a good time to take a high pressure water hose, some simple green and a scrub brush under it and do your best clean and remove any mud, sand, grease grime road debris etc from the chassis. After it dries you may want to go back with a wire brush/wire wheel and some rust inhibitor paint for the undercarriage. Change out all the fluids in the trans transfer and differentials with the OEM recommended weight oils. Remember to get gaskets for your diff covers and wipe down/remove any grit or metal shavings you find in the diffs. Grease all fittings while your under it.

Inspect all of the hoses under the hood. Start from the 12 o clock position and work your way around inspecting every hose from connection to connection. Many of these will be vacuum hoses and prone to cracking or just plain falling off resulting in a myriad of problems for the TJ owner. Look for cracks, dry rot etc. To keep track of which I have inspected I use a rag with a little bit of tire spray or armor all to wipe them down as I go along tracing them. This ensures I don't miss any as all the ones I have inspected are clean and shiny. Next inspect the wiring. Clockwise under the hood and also under the dash. Look for cracks/splits etc and tape up or cleans up anything that looks wrong. Check the fuseboxes in the cab and under hood. Cross reference with the manual and ensure all locations not only have a fuse but that it is the correct fuse.
Rotate (and air up) the tires and inspect the brakes while the tires are off. Replacing front disc pads is easy. If it needs em change em. Rear shoes don't go as frequently but it does happen. It is a little trickier but can be done. I changed front pads in a matter of minutes and braking is improved a lot as a result. There is a fuel filter in a TJ but it's inside the Fuel tank and I have not changed mine out yet.

When the service is finished if you want to degrease and clean the engine bay my recommendation is to do it on a bright sunny day. Use 50/50 water and simple green again and when you are finished cleaning the engine remove the fuse box cover, open the hood all the way till it is resting against the windshield and push the vehicle out into the sun so it is directly in the sun (cook off all the water). Give it an hour. Go grab a beer or two. Once you are sure its dried out start it up and let it idle. Listen for anything awry and go from there.

If you can, do a miles per gallon test before and after the service. Top off the tank, drive a good 50-100 mile distance and top off again. Record the odomet reading before and after and save the receipts for both fill ups. Do the same after the service and see what difference you made if any. Mine went from 13 mpg (after plug change) to 17.1 mpg. I drove the same exact route at the same exact speed.

Hope this helps. I posted up a thread on my service last month if you want to see what all I did in addition to what I listed here.
Good luck man!
WOW!!!! that helps so much!!!...i need to clean it from mudding so tomorrow all day is going to be spent detailing and pampering my jeep...haha
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:09 PM   #7
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I would not use synthetic as it may start oil leaks. On my phone so I cannot explain in more detail. That goes for the axles too.
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:46 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford View Post
One thing to keep in mind is that 2000 and newer 4.0L engines are fairly fussy about what type of spark plugs it will run welll on. And the problem is that some lists of recommended plugs are not correct and some of the recommended plugs won't perform well for as long as they should.

I can give you three plugs that are known to work well and all three will last over 100K miles. The last plug in this list will probably outlast your Jeep. Champion 7034, Autolite APP-985, or the latest iridium technology, the Autolite XP-985.

Some lists will recommend the Autolite AP-985 and Champion 3034, neither of which are the right kind of plug so avoid them.

Finally, avoid gimmicky junk-science plugs like E3, Splitfire, or Bosch Plus 2 or Plus 4 plugs.

Have fun!
thanks! for the info!...any one can provide info on how to pressure wash the under carriage without a lift?
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Old 05-21-2012, 08:55 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doclouie View Post
I would not use synthetic as it may start oil leaks. On my phone so I cannot explain in more detail. That goes for the axles too.
sorry but BS.

That may have been the case years ago when cork seals were used, but with modern seals in these motors(and axles) that is not the case anymore.

If you have(or are going to have) an oil leak, its not because of the type of oil that is used.
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Old 05-21-2012, 09:35 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jodfie View Post
thanks! for the info!...any one can provide info on how to pressure wash the under carriage without a lift?
Put it up on jackstands as high as you can get it. Put on your crappiest clothes (i took off my shoes and socks), wear eye protection and physically get underneath it with a garden hose and a high pressure nozzle. You don't need a pressure washer. Just a scrub brush (or two, one with a long reach and another short) and some simple green. First, Simple green it and let it soak. Then get back under it with the hose and brushes and scrub scrub scrub. Having the transmission skid plate removed is helpful too. Note any and all rust. Once dry, attach a wire wheel or cup brush (having an extension for these is really helpful, get one at the hardware store or auto parts store, the longer the better). Attach these to a cordless drill with a full charge. Go to town on the rust. Then prime the rust with a good quality primer. After this, paint with a good quality rust resistant paint.
Your TJ will look awesome and you will add years to the life of it. In the very least, years to many components.
As I am sure you know the rear shock frame mounts are known to be prone to rusting out. Use of the extension and small cup brush can help you strip away any surface rust there so you can prime it and paint it.

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