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Old 04-05-2010, 11:28 PM   #1
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Flat towing a 2003 TJ

Anyone flat towed a 2003 TJ. I want to take the TJ to Colorado this summer and am thinking about flat towing. a 10 hr drive with 2 adults and 2 children in a TJ doesn't sound like fun. Thinking about pulling it with a Trailblazer(the extended one). Any info would be appreciated.

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Old 04-05-2010, 11:34 PM   #2
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get the tow bar for the jeep. Put the jeep in neutral or first gear toss the t-case into neutral and tow away. There is a wiring harness you can buy to put on the jeep so the lights all work with the tow rig.

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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

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Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:38 PM   #3
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Tcase into neutral. Tranny into 2nd or 3rd.

Yeah, you can flat tow it, but how fun is that? What, with all the dust you'll get in your face...

Click image for larger version

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Old 04-05-2010, 11:41 PM   #4
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^ larry your killing me, I still laugh every time I see that damn pic. Trust me I still have nightmares about it when I am still pulling sand out of my teeth!!
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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

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Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:42 PM   #5
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That's a good one LOL.
Any suggestions on what type of tow bar?
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:44 PM   #6
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Is either the chevy or the jeep set up to tow already?
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:46 PM   #7
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The trailblazer has the tow package with a 4500lb receiver
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Old 04-05-2010, 11:55 PM   #8
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Then you are down to a setup for the jeep and a way to work the lights.

RV places (and the like) sell portable lights for the jeep. Or you can wire up the lights and do a direct plug in. After that, a tow bar and a way to connect a tow bar to the jeep.

Make sure that you have the same rated stuff as your jeep weighs almost 4Klbs.

How far are you towing it? Might want to work out some breaks too.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:03 AM   #9
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We are towing about 550 miles from Oklahoma to Green mountain falls Colorado. Most of the trip across Oklahoma and Kansas is Flat ( of course) and we don't get into hills until going up the pass from Colorado Springs to Green mountain falls. I have towed lots of different trailers and equipment. I am just was looking at away of towing without having to buy a trailer. Everything in time but want to get out on the trails.
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Old 04-06-2010, 12:17 AM   #10
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Only thing with flat towing is if you break something it will be hard to flat tow home. You will be fine on the weight issue.
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Isn't the JK just a rebodied PT Cruiser?!

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Originally Posted by coyote_94yj
Just a few more inches Red. You can take it.


If you haven't gotten more out of the insurance company than you deserve, then you haven't screwed them nearly as much as they have been screwing you for the past xx years.
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Old 04-06-2010, 01:23 AM   #11
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Make sure the transmission is in gear or Park, not neutral. It has to be in gear (any gear or Park for an automatic) to prevent it from spinning when the oil pump isn't pumping. Of course the transfer case has to be in neutral. The flat-towing requirements are in your owners manual.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:14 AM   #12
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Old 04-06-2010, 09:53 AM   #13
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Thanks for the info. I have thought about the issue if I break and dont have a trailer. hopefully in time I can get a trailer.
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Old 04-06-2010, 06:47 PM   #14
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LISTEN TO JERRY! He has it right. The way he says is the way the manual says to to tow an automatic. I use a Blue Ox rigid A frame type tow bar. Hunt around on line to find the best price as they very quite a bit. Don't forget, your stopping distances will increase.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:08 PM   #15
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Tcase into neutral. Tranny into 2nd or 3rd.

Yeah, you can flat tow it, but how fun is that? What, with all the dust you'll get in your face...

Attachment 17751
It's a lot of fun when it's towed behind a 40' RV full of beer to a football game.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:09 PM   #16
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OKay I tow my TJ behind my motorhome. What you need to do is set up the tow vehicle for towing. You already got a good enough hitch. And I'm sure you already have an electrical connector for the lights. To set up your jeep you need a tow bar. there are two types. 1. Is connected to the tow vehicle when not being towed. 2. The other is connected to the towed vehicle when not being towed.

I use the first one (Roadmaster Sterling All Terrain rated for a 6000 lb vehicle). You will also need the brackets to install on your jeep to connect the tow bar to.

Next... You'll need to set up the lights on the Jeep. You can get a wiring setup that uses the existing lights (I did this), or, you can get some magnetic ones that you can use when you tow. The latter is way cheaper. The light kit to use the existing lights isn't exspensive but a pain to install.

Next... You need stop everything. All states have differant law when it comes to brakes. Most go by weight of the towed vehicle, boats use surge brakes, camoing trailers use electric brakes. Your Jeep needs an "Even Brake" or a "Brake Buddy" (look them up online) They are wireless and use the dead pedal of the jeep to assist in stopping.

Go here to see what you need http://www.roadmasterinc.com/

Now this setup is not cheap by any means, however, look on craigslist and there are many people selling a complete setup way less then the new stuff. I got mine online and save over $1500.

The other option is like you said by a Trailer, or, a Two Dolly. I think the tow dolly (with electric brakes) is the most inexspensive way to go. But you'll still have two wheels on the ground.

The question you need to ask yourself is....How much am I going to tow my jeep?
If you only do it a few times go with a dolly, if your going to do it a lot set it up with a more permanent tow bar. Good luck either way.
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Old 04-06-2010, 07:25 PM   #17
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You may spend as much money towing without a trailer than buying a trailer and towing on the trailer and when you get back home you still have a trailer to use for other purposes.
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:43 AM   #18
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Quote:
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LISTEN TO JERRY! He has it right. The way he says is the way the manual says to to tow an automatic. I use a Blue Ox rigid A frame type tow bar. Hunt around on line to find the best price as they very quite a bit. Don't forget, your stopping distances will increase.
I was looking at pictures of your jeep. where did you get the mounting tabs for the jeep bumper?
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Old 04-07-2010, 12:49 AM   #19
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I really appreciate all the help. I am not sure yet how much I plan to tow. We have a 4 year old and a 12 year old which are good for about 2 maybe 3 hrs next to each other( probably less in the back seat of the TJ). We go to Colorado once a year and that is many what I want to tow the jeep for. 10hrs in the tj with the kids--someone is bailing out...I would like a trailer but was trying to save some weight in regards to the Trailblazer even though it is the bigger one with the 3rd row seat (can seperate the kids)
I have towed a lot of different things both with trailer brakes and not so that aspect isn't a big concern.
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Old 04-07-2010, 08:16 AM   #20
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If your only going once a year.....rent a dolly. You'll save in the long run. Go with a premanent setup if you're towing more frequently.
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:32 PM   #21
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Found this on the Quadratec site:

Flat Towing a Jeep® Wrangler
According to the Jeep manual:
When towing a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for recreational towing -- such as behind a motorhome -- you must tow with four wheels down (as opposed to using a tow dolly), because...

"Internal damage to the transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when recreational towing!"
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Old 04-07-2010, 01:46 PM   #22
Knows a couple things...

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Found this on the Quadratec site:

Flat Towing a Jeep® Wrangler
According to the Jeep manual:
When towing a Jeep Wrangler Unlimited for recreational towing -- such as behind a motorhome -- you must tow with four wheels down (as opposed to using a tow dolly), because...

"Internal damage to the transfer case will occur if a front or rear wheel lift is used when recreational towing!"
That doesn't sound right at all. Knowing the transfer case and how it is set up for flat towing, I don't see any difference if the front tires were to simply be up on a tow dolly. Quadratec has been guilty for years of posting various erroneous information, it surprise me if that was true with current TJs and JKs. That sounds like something that could only be true with the older Dana 300 transfer case that hasn't been used since the early eighties.
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Old 04-07-2010, 03:39 PM   #23
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^^^ In total agreement.
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Old 04-07-2010, 04:51 PM   #24
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These guys make a pretty neat dolly http://factoryramps.com click on trailers once you get there.
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Old 04-07-2010, 06:38 PM   #25
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ahh I see, probably old information then. yay for eroneous info!
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Old 04-07-2010, 07:44 PM   #26
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I was looking at pictures of your jeep. where did you get the mounting tabs for the jeep bumper?
From the same people I got the tow bar from. They are called "base plates". I got them from PPL Motorhomes.com for $263 for both the tow bar and plates. Throw in safety cables for $50 and it isn't cheap but we go to the desert and the Sierras with our RV so it was the only choice.
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Old 04-07-2010, 11:53 PM   #27
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From the same people I got the tow bar from. They are called "base plates". I got them from PPL Motorhomes.com for $263 for both the tow bar and plates. Throw in safety cables for $50 and it isn't cheap but we go to the desert and the Sierras with our RV so it was the only choice.
Thanks I will take a look.
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Old 10-13-2011, 11:08 PM   #28
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03 TJ Flat Tow Wiring

I just wired my TJ and like the results. No cutting factory wires!

I purchased…

1 - 20’ trailer wire y-harness
1 - 03 TJ trailer wiring harness for towing
2 - RoadMaster hy-power diode
1 - RoadMaster park light diode
1 – 4-flat 60” extension

Start by fishing a light gauge solid wire from the hole on top of the frame between the front drivers side bumper and the wheel all the way to the back (you can use the side hole further forward if you want). There is a round hole about 6 inches from the back bumper to fish the wire out of. Tape on and pull the wires though.

Follow the directions on the 03 TJ trailer wiring harness for towing but just run the wires for now. Take the wires from the frame and poke them though the hole in the frame to the other side (inside). Cut the green and yellow wires on the trailer wiring harness that go between the two connectors in the middle. They are about 3 inches long. I put dielectric grease on the wires before putting the connectors on. The wire coming from the TJ goes to the in and the tail light side to the out on the diode. The yellow wire from the frame goes to the other in on the left side. Run the green and brown wire to the right side and do the same thing. Just cap off the brown wire on the right side. You can cut the brown wire on the left side or use a t-tap or scotchlock to connect the parking light diode out. The brown wire from the frame goes to the diode in. Finish following the directions from the tow package. Poke everything up and zip tie it to something solid. Button up the back.

Up front screw the white wire down. Zip tie the harness to something, I used the sway bar and tucked the wires under the plastic Jeep logo in front of the grill. The 4-flat 60” is used between the TJ and towing vehicle.

Wire colors if you want to hack into them.

TJ – Black/Yellow - Brown - Harness – Parking Lights
TJ – Green/Red – Yellow – Harness – Left Turn
TJ – Brown/Red – Green – Harness - Right Turn
TJ – White/Brown – White – Harness – Ground

Hope this helps someone.
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Old 03-26-2012, 10:44 PM   #29
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I've flat towed my '03 TJ's about 15,000 miles total to date behind our 34' Motorhome. Trips have launched from Texas and included Yellowstone, Colorado, Northern Michigan and many others.

I set up both my '03's for flat towing as follows:

Hitch:

Roadmaster Stowmaster 5000 tow bar - $500. There are others. BlueOx is the cream of the crop. But I just like the simplicity and flexibility of the Stowmaster.

For my stock TJ: I installed two Roadmaster Quick Disconnects to the factory front bumper. $60 from most online RV-parts suppliers. I had to drill to match holes/spacing. But installed as recommended. No biggie Measure twice... This TJ is always ready to hang the Stowmaster 5000.

For my custom TJ: A bit trickier. I have a really nice looking high rock bumper (Body Armor) that does not have the nice, empty, flat surface the factory bumper has for attaching the quick disconnects. But that bumper has two relatively common D-Ring tabs out in front. And the space between them is clear of obstructions. The winch sits high enough above to not interfere. This is important so the Stowmaster 5000 can fit.

So I bought two Roadmaster Quick Disconnects as before but fabricated some adapters. I remove the recovery D-rings and slide the custom fabricated adapters into the holes in the bumper's D-ring tabs and screw-in the Roadmaster Quick Disconnects. A bit more of a pain since I have to do this process each time I want to set-up the TJ for towing, but really, with a power drill/driver, it's quick and painless - takes 4 minutes. Once the adapters/disconnects are attached, this TJ is ready for the stowmaster.

For either Jeep, once the quick disconnects are in place, the stowmaster basically drops right into the quick disconnects. Add two pins (or a LOCK!) and you're ready to tow - mechanically.

Lights/Wiring:

I chose to simply zip tie the plug end of a "trailer" wiring harness so that the plug dangles at the bottom of my 7th Jeep grill slot (driver's side).

I ran the white wire to a factory grounding point left of the back side of the grill - by the radiator.

The rest of the wires run up over the fender in the engine compartment, around the washer bottle, and down through the grommet into the cockpit by the driver's left toe. I dressed that harness with black wire loom so it looks stock.

Inside the cockpit, run those wires from the firewall along the driver's side wall and along the harness that runs under the driver's door sill.

In a convenient place under the driver's door sill - about 10" behind the front door frame - remove the plastic plugs securing the plastic wire harness cover. Locate the following wires in the factory Jeep harness:

Green/Red, Brown/Red, Black/Yellow (There are two Black/Yellow - use both)

As Ourtoy outlined perfectly in the post above, you connect the harness wires accordingly:

Black/Yellow - Brown. Pick either brown wire from your "trailer" harness (your "trailer" harness has two), cut it to length and strip it's end. Cut the brown wire you don't use and just terminate it. Cut both Black/Yellow wires from the factory harness, strip the ends add the brown wire to the two coming from the front and squeeze on a blue connector. Squeeze the back end of the blue connector to the two stripped black/yellow wires that run aft. So in other words, squeeze together all black/yellow with one of the brown wires of your choosing in your trailer harness.

Green/Red – Yellow. Cut the Green/Red wire and strip both ends. Strip the yellow wire from your "Trailer" harness. Using a Roadmaster Hy Power diode ($15), squeeze on the included terminal ends and connect the diode per the instructions/diagram on its label.

Brown/Red – Green. Do the same as above with the Brown/Red wire, diode and the Green wire from the "trailer" harness.

You're ready to tow!

Towing:

As others have already said above: Shifter in 2nd gear. Transfer case in Neutral. Ahhhh - here's a very important note: Key in the one click FORWARD position to unlock steering - NEVER PUT YOUR KEY IN THE ONE CLICK BACKWARD/ACC POSITION!!!!! I did this the first time I towed and somehow (over a bump?) the key returned to the steering locked position and I dragged my Jeep with the steering locked for nearly 100 miles before a trucker flagged me down. I killed two very expensive tires. Thank goodness they didn't blow. Best to just put your key into the "on" position and then back it up to the "stop" (the stop that you would normally press the button in to back over - just DON'T PRESS THE RELEASE BUTTON - leave the key in that position forward of the stop). Turn your wheel a few turns each direction to be sure - EVERY time you tow it!

That's it! Set this up once and you're ready to tow ALL THE TIME. I tow my Jeep behind my Yukon for service or other services I don't do myself. I tow it behind our motorhome everywhere we go. I tow it behind our Yukon to go to the beach (that way we have utility AND a fun machine to run the dunes!).

Stowmaster - $500
Quickdisconnects - $60
Diodes - $30
Trailer wiring harness - Cheap

You'll also need:
Wiring pigtail to connect your Jeep to your tow vehicle's trailer tow plug (buy or fabricate) - Cheap
Two safety cables - Not bad - Tractor Supply has all this stuff.
In some states, you may also need brake assist system as mentioned previously.

- Rich
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Old 03-26-2012, 11:40 PM   #30
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I am going to get the Ready Brute and Roadmaster brackets for my '06. We'll be towing behind a 31' Class A. Until now I've been pulling a Corolla on a tow dolly but it's quite the inconvenience for other than short weekend trips. I'm ready for 4 down.

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