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Old 03-16-2012, 12:47 PM   #1
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In ally gonna do things right. Found a bone stock 04 Rubicon Auto. Wanted manual but for ease my girl can use it now and when i get crawling I'll be all set. So it's 63k all stock miles Ina heated garage picking up this weekend I hope has all the tops everything works go figure. I plan to take slow but girl may just get me a early christmas present cause she has the money now haha love it! Here's what I figure to get started with in future and someone help suggest if I need or not

- Clayton 4" Long arm kit right off bat. Comes with disconnects and all suspension indeed track bars brackets whatever or is it just better to go 5.5" kit they have for about same price to clear tires

- I want to run 35's so with a 4" kit should I do a body lift of 1" will that help? Or best bet invest in fatty fenders

- with stock axles on rubi an gears how crucial is it to gear up to 4.88's. Or will 33's behest for stock gearing if I leave it. Remember auto trans

- if I just stick to 33's I'm sure plenty enough but can I run stock Moab wheels or need spacers?

- I'll build my bumper I love the stubby look so I'll probably hack stock one the way I have seen and throw winch and plate on it

- gonna have to invest in rear bumper wi carrier for sure when I do wheels and all

For most part I think that is perfect. Should ride smooth on road and be pretty capable when I go in for a climb. The honest I assume I go a handful times a year but least it's ready to and capable without issues and all. I'll do some trails for sure more than anything. Just know 190% to go long arm this round and enjoy the ride. For once not starting with a CLAPPED out pos which is all issues before I drive home. I'm sure a stock rubi will do just about allo I will want it to until I hit the hill

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Old 03-16-2012, 12:51 PM   #2
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Sounds awesome. Be sure to post some before and after pics. And good luck with your build

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Old 03-16-2012, 12:56 PM   #3
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Congrats, let the fun begin
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2014 Jeep JK Sport, Auto, stock for the moment
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:04 PM   #4
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A 4" lift is a great idea, a 2 1/2-3" would be better with high clearence fenders to complement the tires and lift. Keeping things as close to factory style components retains reliabiltiy, keep in mind that you want as little lift as possible to clear 35's which i think is a perfect size for rubicon axles. A one inch body lift would allow you to do a tummy tuck on the tranfer case to improve ground clearence with a lower center of gravity, hope this helps.
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azwillysjp
4" lift is a great idea 2 1/2-3" would be better wiht high clearence fenders, keeping things as close to factory style components retains reliabiltiy, keep in mind that you want as little lift as possible to clear 35's which i think is a perfect size for rubicon axles, a one inch body lift would allow you to do a tummy tuck on the tranfer case to improve ground clearence with a lower center of gravity, hope this helps
By all means I rather keep it as low as possible for gravity like you said and will be open to all suggestions of best setup. I do love the look of fatty fenders so that's always possible and ifi save some bucks not getting a crazy kit that could happen sooner. Which kits are worth the money. I want to do this once and as right as possible. I want to drive stock as long as I can to get research correct..
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Old 03-16-2012, 01:50 PM   #6
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Seems still with all research a long arm isn't the "best" way to go. I just had horrible experience with short arms on last jeep but pretty sure all death wobble and issues was fact it was a clapped out mess of a jeep. I doubt I'll be to hung up on these long arms in trails I plan on doing. Maybe a top notch short arm kit will suffice and deff help with installing and how permanent it is. 3" savvy setup seems great, with 1" MML and 1" Bl I think 35's would rock. I plan on fatty fenders as I said they just look awesome. But if I can fit with stock fenders I will. Mostly my DD fun vehicle not to much abuse but want to know I won't be help back..
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Old 03-16-2012, 05:16 PM   #7
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Someone wanna recommend ride quailty on road for the 3 or 4 inch savvy kit? I prefer just using discos instead of anti rock kit. I rather keep as close to stock as everyone says so is the 3" kit a better safe route over 4" or just go 4" if I want 35's. An doing 1" MML 1" BL as said. I am planning cutting my fenders or trimming them to get some room until I can swing a new set of flat fenders. Need to do swing carrier bumper first, mod up a stubby bumper and perhaps do a winch too. Depends money left after lift an all tire stuff purchased.

With Moab wheels do I need wheel spacers on 35's with that setup or best off just get new wheels with right specs
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:55 PM   #8
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Congrats I also have an 04 Rubi..I have a RE 4.5" lift with 35s and like the stance.
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Old 03-16-2012, 09:59 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drl650
Congrats I also have an 04 Rubi..I have a RE 4.5" lift with 35s and like the stance.
Looks awesome! I am here debating if it's fully worth 35's but go big once I will regret it. I got a rubicon so I can eliminate that crap! Deff doing 4" savvy kit, Bl and MML. Trying to learn if I need a driveshaft for sure or not.


Also can I run my Moab wheels w 35" or will I need spacers. 4 spacers are a good bit less than 5 new wheels to make it happen. But black would look good. I'm starting w a khaki jeep so I think be sharp w black wheels am accents. Or keep it totally stock looking with wheels spaces out an no nothing changed. Just a big clean looking "stock" jeep built to do work haha.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:02 PM   #10
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You will not like the 42RLE with 4.10 gears and 35s. In fact, you probably won't like your 42rle with 35s and 4.88 gears. Ask Jerry Bransford. We talked about it once and he said it lugs on the highway. The 42RLE is better suited with 5.13s for 35s.
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Old 03-16-2012, 10:05 PM   #11
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Quote:
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You will not like the 42RLE with 4.10 gears and 35s. In fact, you probably won't like your 42rle with 35s and 4.88 gears. Ask Jerry Bransford. We talked about it once and he said it lugs on the highway. The 42RLE is better suited with 5.13s for 35s.
Yea I'm readi g up now and seeing 5:13 is way to go. Just looking to do once an I don't need it to go fast I have my truck or bikes for that. How horrible will it be till I at least get suspension done and installed aligned and driving so I can get that done. Figure 1200 give take to get done w parts right. What gears do I want brand wise
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Old 03-20-2012, 04:21 PM   #12
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Any other suggestions I'm all over the place w the suggestions.


In all reality this is a fun DD for some highway and trails. Maybe few days a year climbing. I would like to try washing my head of rumors an what looks right and get a solid safe setup. Not saying money's an issue but I have no problem buying the Clayton 5.5 long arm kit. But in all reality why. I WANT 35's but never needed them nor plan to figure that out. So 33's help w a lot in long run an look just as good.

What would be a good setup for 33's. 2.5" w 1" BL + MML maybe future tummy tuck not sure how hard that is but I can weld an have materials at hand. How well does a 2.5 flex if needed and what's a good kit. Should I get control arms? Get trac bars an all that for sure. Just wanna do this once an be sort of done w suspension. If I'm putting on the lift I don't wanna go back an forth.
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Old 03-26-2012, 01:50 PM   #13
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Bump for this I'm really torn.

5.5" long arm go all out spend the money run 35's all that

Go little more simple an realize mostly gonna be a fun DD an 33's would be fine on a currie 3" kit or go for body lift too w 35's and flat fenders. For price of a currie short arm a few bucks more an its a killer long arm

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