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Old 07-26-2011, 05:46 PM   #1
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Front and Rear Dana 44 axle values?

I've got a line on a pair of front and rear Dana 44 axles that came out of an older Wagoneer... $400 for the pair. I don't need the rear axle as I'm happy with my 8.8, but I'd like to have the front axle to upgrade my Dana 30 lp... Is it worth buying these and then spending the money to convert the older Dana 44 to bolt into my TJ? How much is the rear Dana 44 worth if I were to buy them both and then sell the rear axle?

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Old 07-26-2011, 05:55 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by necromancer_tat View Post
I've got a line on a pair of front and rear Dana 44 axles that came out of an older Wagoneer... $400 for the pair. I don't need the rear axle as I'm happy with my 8.8, but I'd like to have the front axle to upgrade my Dana 30 lp... Is it worth buying these and then spending the money to convert the older Dana 44 to bolt into my TJ? How much is the rear Dana 44 worth if I were to buy them both and then sell the rear axle?
Ill be watching this thread closely and in case you sell the rear 44 Im calling DIBS...


If it isnt too hard and worth it that is.

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Old 07-26-2011, 06:21 PM   #3
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Well, a couple things to watch for the 79 and earlier used the passenger side diff and had the smaller 260 u-joints and around 82-84 they had vacuum disconnect axles. you will have a few problems to address. The lug pattern is 6 on 5.5 on a waggy. You can use early 70's chevy spindles and mid 70's to 85 ford hubs. To get a 5 on 5.5 pattern if you want 5 lug. But either way you need new rear axle shafts because there isn't enough material to redrill the larger pattern on the 8.8 flange. You can get six lug shafts made for the 8.8 if you wanted to go that route. The brackets can be costly but I believe tnt makes a killer truss you can order with brackets already welded on for a decent price. You should also way the pros and cons. Pros are serviceable bearings, lockout hubs, steering is up off the ground, thicker axle tubes , bigger tie rods, stronger ring & pinion and better selection of gears. Cons are it's heavy, low pinion so drive shaft is closer to the ground, stock inverted t steering has dead spots and overall hurts ground clearance.
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:43 PM   #4
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Originally Posted by srad600 View Post
Ill be watching this thread closely and in case you sell the rear 44 Im calling DIBS...


If it isnt too hard and worth it that is.
Just so you know, the axles are old, like from 85 or previous, the rear axle is drum brakes, and it's set up for leaf springs, so it's not really worth very much... the front axle is where the money's at, but I'm curious as to weather it's worth spending 400 bucks just to have to spend even more money regearing, adding a locker, fabbing a steering set up, converting it from leaf spring to coil spring and setting it up for unpper and lower control arm mounts..
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Old 07-26-2011, 06:44 PM   #5
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Well, a couple things to watch for the 79 and earlier used the passenger side diff and had the smaller 260 u-joints and around 82-84 they had vacuum disconnect axles. you will have a few problems to address. The lug pattern is 6 on 5.5 on a waggy. You can use early 70's chevy spindles and mid 70's to 85 ford hubs. To get a 5 on 5.5 pattern if you want 5 lug. But either way you need new rear axle shafts because there isn't enough material to redrill the larger pattern on the 8.8 flange. You can get six lug shafts made for the 8.8 if you wanted to go that route. The brackets can be costly but I believe tnt makes a killer truss you can order with brackets already welded on for a decent price. You should also way the pros and cons. Pros are serviceable bearings, lockout hubs, steering is up off the ground, thicker axle tubes , bigger tie rods, stronger ring & pinion and better selection of gears. Cons are it's heavy, low pinion so drive shaft is closer to the ground, stock inverted t steering has dead spots and overall hurts ground clearance.
Thanks for the advice! I'll do some more research.
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