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Old 04-14-2013, 08:33 AM   #31
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I have a guy in my club who ran 35s on a rubi 44 and bent the housing and broke multiple shafts now he runs a chopped Dana 60 with a 36 tire. If you want a 37 you might as well go the 60 route.
Its all about how you wheel. I know people who have destroyed D60 with 37's but my little 30 is still kickin. Matter of fact when I build my ZJ ill be running 37's and an HP 30 up front. I love the D30 its a good axle but cost money to build just like any other axle. I wheel with a few JK's that have the stock 30 with 37's with no issues that ive seen.

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Old 04-14-2013, 09:41 AM   #32
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But guys with 35's go everywhere I go, sometimes better cause they're better drivers. Driving skill is prolly more important than 37's.
When we first started wheeling this part of the world, it didn't take long before I had our rig up on 33's, regeared, 4" of lift, and locked on both ends.

It was about the most awesome thing I'd ever experienced when we, myself and my wife in our rig and a couple of buddies in their rigs went wheeling all over SoCal every weekend.

I thought I was about the coolest thing to ever pilot a 4 wheel drive and then one day I had an epiphany and realized that my two buddies in their unlocked TJs with stock shocks, open diffs, and 31" All Terrains with Budget Boosts were still following along quite handily even without winches.

It wasn't until I got up on 35's and started doing the Hammers that I finally found places they couldn't go and that includes Los Coyotes, The Rubicon, Big Bear, Stoddard, lots of stuff between BB and Pioneer Town, et al.

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Old 04-14-2013, 10:13 AM   #33
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Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes View Post

When we first started wheeling this part of the world, it didn't take long before I had our rig up on 33's, regeared, 4" of lift, and locked on both ends.

It was about the most awesome thing I'd ever experienced when we, myself and my wife in our rig and a couple of buddies in their rigs went wheeling all over SoCal every weekend.

I thought I was about the coolest thing to ever pilot a 4 wheel drive and then one day I had an epiphany and realized that my two buddies in their unlocked TJs with stock shocks, open diffs, and 31" All Terrains with Budget Boosts were still following along quite handily even without winches.

It wasn't until I got up on 35's and started doing the Hammers that I finally found places they couldn't go and that includes Los Coyotes, The Rubicon, Big Bear, Stoddard, lots of stuff between BB and Pioneer Town, et al.
It's a sad thing when friends can't keep up. My groups starting to split because of rig capability
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:40 AM   #34
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It's a sad thing when friends can't keep up. My groups starting to split because of rig capability
Yea i know the feeling. My buddy his JK is on 40's I have hard time keeping up sometimes. He will be stepping up to 44's soon so I need to stretch and upgrade the axles on my YJ so i can run 42-48's. But before I can do that i need a daily driver so im building a ZJ with 37's. I love my little Dana 30 so much im gong to put the locker, axle shafts and gears into a HP D30 from a 97 XJ for my ZJ.
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:36 PM   #35
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Let me jump in here too. I have a TJ with a Ford HP Dana 44 up front that the PO built new axle tubes for out of DOM tubing. It also has chromo shafts. Would I be safe running something like a 36" IROK or a TSL? They measure close to a 37 but are quite a bit lighter than a true 37??? Opinions???

Oh in the rear it has a Ford 9" with 35 spline chromo shafts...

I know ball joint life will suffer but this be pushing the ring and pinion and axles beyond reliability?
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Old 04-14-2013, 08:58 PM   #36
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Let me jump in here too. I have a TJ with a Ford HP Dana 44 up front that the PO built new axle tubes for out of DOM tubing. It also has chromo shafts. Would I be safe running something like a 36" IROK or a TSL? They measure close to a 37 but are quite a bit lighter than a true 37??? Opinions???

Oh in the rear it has a Ford 9" with 35 spline chromo shafts...

I know ball joint life will suffer but this be pushing the ring and pinion and axles beyond reliability?
You should be perfectly fine with 36/37s. That HP 44 is nothing like the TJ front 44, the ball joints are bigger and it being high pinion makes it much stronger than a normal 44.

Is the 9" fabricated housing or is it stamped steel housing?
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Old 04-14-2013, 09:07 PM   #37
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You should be perfectly fine with 36/37s. That HP 44 is nothing like the TJ front 44, the ball joints are bigger and it being high pinion makes it much stronger than a normal 44.

Is the 9" fabricated housing or is it stamped steel housing?
x2

Sounds like a well built pair of axles, and no worries on the Ball joints.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:11 PM   #38
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does the ford hp 44 need to be trimmed down to 60" to match the rear?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:36 PM   #39
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does the ford hp 44 need to be trimmed down to 60" to match the rear?
Which rear?
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:43 PM   #40
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@Goldensahara.....Sorry if I came off as an asshole. I really wasn't trying to be. Just having a joke. It's all good.

Sorry
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:50 PM   #41
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He didn't really give any advice. You can run 37s on Rubi 44s, some guys manage to get them to survive, while other guys would shred them the first time out. Nothing wrong with him throwing his .02 cents in... What's your take on this?



Actually, the CAD housing is stronger. The multiple piece shafts may be weak, but can easily and cheaply be swapped for the TJ shafts and have the vacuum plugged with a plate. I used to think the same thing about the vaccuum housing being weaker.

see: So many opinions: Is anyone running an HP 30 "disconnect" axle in a TJ? - JeepForum.com
I still wouldn't really call it stronger. Both have their issues, I've seen instances where the CAD piece literally cracks in half. I'd rather bend tubes than have the CAD completely crack in half.
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Old 04-14-2013, 10:54 PM   #42
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You should be perfectly fine with 36/37s. That HP 44 is nothing like the TJ front 44, the ball joints are bigger and it being high pinion makes it much stronger than a normal 44.

Is the 9" fabricated housing or is it stamped steel housing?
It is a stamped housing with a back brace on it. I am not sure if it was a factory housing or aftermarket???
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:06 PM   #43
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It is a stamped housing with a back brace on it. I am not sure if it was a factory housing or aftermarket???
Stamped is usually factory but you can buy new "aftermarket" stamped housings. There are variances in material thickness used based on the vehicle it came from, but it's sounds like whoever did the swap knew what they were doing and probably used one with beefier materials. Especially with the brace you aren't going to have an issue.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:08 PM   #44
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I still wouldn't really call it stronger. Both have their issues, I've seen instances where the CAD piece literally cracks in half. I'd rather bend tubes than have the CAD completely crack in half.
I don't have experience with them other than a few YJs, and haven't seen either in conditions where it would matter about the housings strength. It seems to be popular opinion on some of the bigger boards and several big name builders that the CAD housing is stronger. I actually have never heard of the housing cracking, let alone seen it. Shoot me a link or pictures, that would be interesting to see!

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@Goldensahara.....Sorry if I came off as an asshole. I really wasn't trying to be. Just having a joke. It's all good.

Sorry
It's all good, I don't care anyways, It's just hard to tell on the computer sometimes. Your good in my book
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:11 PM   #45
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I don't have experience with them other than a few YJs, and haven't seen either in conditions where it would matter about the housings strength. It seems to be popular opinion on some of the bigger boards and several big name builders that the CAD housing is stronger. I actually have never heard of the housing cracking, let alone seen it. Shoot me a link or pictures, that would be interesting to see!



It's all good, I don't care anyways, It's just hard to tell on the computer sometimes. Your good in my book
There was a thread recently with pictures of a housing cracked in half, but I can't for the life of me find it. If I do I'll post a pic.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:14 PM   #46
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Especially with the brace you aren't going to have an issue.
That is what I figured, even with a regular stock housing with the brace it should handle 35 - 37's just fine. I am glad to hear that the front won't be marginal with the Ford HP 44.

Now I can't wait to wear out my 35's.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:19 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by GoldenSahara00 View Post
Shoot me a link or pictures, that would be interesting to see!
this axle cracked in half through the CAD housing.



Towing the Jeep.avi - YouTube

from: http://www.wranglerforum.com/f5/bent...tml#post675677

but to be fair, I've got pics of a HPD30 non-disco cracked in half at the passenger side carrier bearing, and it's cracked right though a big beefy truss. I may even be able to find pics of a HD D44 cracked in half too.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:25 PM   #48
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Interesting, thanks guys. So I have people saying it's stronger, some saying it's weaker. Maybe it doesn't matter at all? The CAD can snap in half, but the tubes can bend. They are both weak d30s? I wonder if there is a concrete answer out there. Or if it's just that: both axles have a weakness, pick your preferred poison.

Unlimited, you make a good point. I think in the thread above I linked, Blaine says at the end that basically the CAD is stronger, because the long tube on the non CAD is the weak point. The CAD housing is supposedly stronger too. Whose to say that a non CAD housing would have survived longer than the one above? It may have broke in half just the same, or sooner.

Probably something that could use a little more research.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:29 PM   #49
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I replaced 3 housings on two different county owned Dodge trucks due to cracked/ broken CAD housings. I finally convinced the county maintenance that there was some "spirited" driving going on at the local land fill.
Not to say a non-CAD housing wouldn't have failed either.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:34 PM   #50
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Unlimited, you make a good point. I think in the thread above I linked, Blaine says at the end that basically the CAD is stronger, because the long tube on the non CAD is the weak point. The CAD housing is supposedly stronger too. Whose to say that a non CAD housing would have survived longer than the one above? It may have broke in half just the same, or sooner.
I built my HP D30 around a non-CAD housing. here's why:

the CAD is a big hunk of cast iron (like the pumpkin), with tube on either side. It's another weld point, and another failure point. It may create a funky bending moment. At the least, it's another POS you have to deal with/modify to run TJ shafts. That's why I took a non-CAD housing and welded a sleeve truss over the outside, basically making a 3" x 1/2" wall tube the majority of the length of the long side tube. My thought is that is stronger than both unmodified housings with respect to the long side tube. and that was to run 33s, maybe 35s some day.
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Old 04-14-2013, 11:49 PM   #51
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Which rear?
An 8.8
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Old 04-15-2013, 12:07 AM   #52
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Thanks for the advice. Ill prolly take it slow. Ill run 33s for a while until I can put in an 8.8 and HP 30. Then move up to 35s. Ill retire my jeep to weekend warrior when I get out of college. Ill make the move up to 37s then. Who knows, maybe ill be 100% satisfied with the 35s.

Thanks again!
I am installing a 99 ford explorer 8.8 with artec truss kit from ecgs east coast gear and supply. I should be finished next week if i have time to work on it. Lol i will let you know.
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Old 04-15-2013, 07:39 AM   #53
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I built my HP D30 around a non-CAD housing. here's why:

the CAD is a big hunk of cast iron (like the pumpkin), with tube on either side. It's another weld point, and another failure point. It may create a funky bending moment. At the least, it's another POS you have to deal with/modify to run TJ shafts. That's why I took a non-CAD housing and welded a sleeve truss over the outside, basically making a 3" x 1/2" wall tube the majority of the length of the long side tube. My thought is that is stronger than both unmodified housings with respect to the long side tube. and that was to run 33s, maybe 35s some day.
That's basically what I thought before hearing that the CAD housing was stronger. I think a non CAD can be made just a stronger with the sleeve and truss like you mentioned. You and Imped and many many others have run hp30s successfully with larger tires. So there is good evidence for the strength of them. I wish some more of the guys w/ experience with the CAD housings would chime in.

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An 8.8
You can have the front wider than the rear, that is how it is normally setup. You want to check tire coverage laws etc first. If they don't have any bearing then do whatever you think looks good, and will be function on the trail.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:30 AM   #54
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I live in MS we do not have a lot of restrictions or at least none that are enforced.
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Old 04-15-2013, 10:39 AM   #55
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Then you'd still want them to match but could make the 8.8 wider with wheels and spacers and the 44 narrower with wheels and get them more proportional if you had a full width I suppose if that's what your gona run.

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