I'm rebuilding the front drive shaft in my 06 model & wondering if the greaseable ball centering kit spicer #21355x will work? The one that came out is non greaseable & is made differently. I looked at the write up on stu's site & this is exactly how the parts i have look. Just wondering if anyone else has done this?
You can get either or, the greasable on is a little tougher to do maintenance on, since you have to typically drop the DS everytime you grease the CV with the needle fitting.
Should be a 1310 series kit... it will work for your front shaft. You can take it apart and clean it, inspect it and verify if you need any new parts. I would say you will find a good amount of grease in there. Once you clean it up and reassemble, there is a small hole under the socket component of the ball and socket assy. shoot grease in it until its full. This can only be done with the ujoint NOT INSTALLED... you will see what I mean...
I had a ujoint in my front shaft going out ( chirping ) about a month ago... did all 3 ujoints and the H-Yoke was full of grease at 115k and they were originals. Mind you I bought this last April.
Well I got the shaft rebuilt & back in but now instead the angry sparrows squeak it has a knocking sound coming from it. I know it went back together right, this is not my first u-joint job but it is the first double cardan c/v shaft. Any ideas?
Well I got the shaft rebuilt & back in but now instead the angry sparrows squeak it has a knocking sound coming from it. I know it went back together right, this is not my first u-joint job but it is the first double cardan c/v shaft. Any ideas?
Knocking? I'd check to make sure it's lined up properly back on the transfer case,, I've had mine out many times for its spring and fall lube job, that is a weird angle up there for wrenching, so that may be where your problem is....
Im fairly sure it is. The caps are all inside the tabs that go around the ends of the caps & the bolts are all tight. Should I take it back out & try re-installing it? All three u-joints went in great & the ball centering part went in easily. I also made sure I put the c/v part of the shaft back in the same way it was originally for balance purposes.
I thought about that possibility because, several years ago, I didn't get my front DS u-joint centered and all the way down into the yoke's recessed u-joint area and it vibrated pretty badly. I know yours is knocking but...
I haven't gotten above 30mph to see if it vibrates. I didn't want to hurt anything. Ive only drove around the block when i heard the knocking i pulled right back in the driveway. I was also wondering Jerry if I got a new Tom Wood shaft that would work with my bb lift now would that same shaft work with a 4 or 5" suspension lift later? I know you speak highly of their shafts.
TW makes great driveshafts but I'd just fix what you have. The OE front DS and its stock length works fine with even a 4-5" suspension lift. It's the rear DS that needs lengthening when getting to that tall of a lift.
Ok thanks for letting me know. I'll probably pull the shaft back out tomorrow afternoon. I'm just lucky the jeep is not my only vehicle. If i figure out what the problem is I'll make sure to post what it is.
When I rebuilt my front driveshaft (the first time), I must not have paid close enough attention to how flexible the double cardan joint was after the rebuild. I reinstalled the driveshaft and had a knock when I drove. I removed it and noticed that it was not flexing the way that it should. I reaassembled the double cardan joint, reinstalled it, and the knock was gone... Just a thought.
I didn't really do anything different, except make sure that nothing was binding when I put it back together. If it was difficult to move, I just played with the u joint installation until it flexed freely. It was pretty easy, but it was just something to pay attention to...
Have you checked to see if your shaft is contacting your exhaust pipe or any other portion of the Jeep? Just asking..... is it a rhythmic knock or random?
Got it out & it had a small binding spot in the c/v end. Hit on the caps with a dead blow hammer & no more binding spot. Put it back in & no more knock! Thanks for all the help & ideas everybody.
After doing all of that work on my Jeep, I drove without the skid plate for a while. Bad idea. Make sure you get that back on. Otherwise you will hear even more noises that will drive you crazy and possibly cause future problems.
I never took the skid plate off. I snaked my arm in but thanks for the reminder.
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