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Old 04-07-2013, 01:22 PM   #1
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Front Drive Shaft U Joint keep falling out

So a few months ago I did a CV shaft maintenance because I had angry sparrows, new center ball kit, and three new U joints (spicer) . Then after a little of wheeling in 4wd it started making this loud sound. I found 2 caps gone. I called American Drivetrain and got two new U joints, and now it has happened again after only a little bit of 4wd. This time I was listening closely so as soon as I heard something I got off and inspected the the shaft. this time all caps were in place but one of the clips was gone. I removed the shaft.

So my question is do I need a new drive shaft?

Do I need a new CV yolk?

Is this in some way related to adjusting my 4 wheel drive lever? Since I sometimes have trouble getting it in 4lo.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:24 PM   #2
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Also the little fitting for the grease is gone, and it was gone on the same one last time. Could it have something to do with not enough grease or too much grease?

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Old 04-07-2013, 01:25 PM   #3
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how is the t-case to pinon angle look or set up?
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:32 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4Jeepn View Post
how is the t-case to pinon angle look or set up?
I honestly don't know, I didn't mess with the angle when I did my lift.
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Old 04-07-2013, 01:48 PM   #5
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The only way I could see you throwing a bearing cap would be if the clips weren't seated properly. Pull them out and check the groove for burrs, mud, pebbles, etc.
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Old 04-07-2013, 07:11 PM   #6
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The only way I could see you throwing a bearing cap would be if the clips weren't seated properly. Pull them out and check the groove for burrs, mud, pebbles, etc.
You got it. Those snap rings are almost impossible to make fall out if they are seated fully.

I suspect that the OP did not tap the caps down first and then take a small drift and drive the snap rings fully into the grooves to make sure they are seated. Or, did not inspect the grooves to make sure they are not damaged and preventing the snap rings from seating all the way.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:06 PM   #7
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Guys I did not do this while sipping on coors light, the yolk was clean before putting the u joint. I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and removed all the gunk.

And let's say it was the dirt, how does that explain the grease fitting to be missing?
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:15 PM   #8
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Quote:
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Guys I did not do this while sipping on coors light, the yolk was clean before putting the u joint. I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and removed all the gunk.

And let's say it was the dirt, how does that explain the grease fitting to be missing?

At this point, you don't know which came first, the chicken or the egg. Did the grease fitting get bounced out because the shaft was vibrating from the missing caps? Did you put the grease fitting in and know that it was tightened correctly?

Yolks are where baby chicks come from. Yokes are for pinion side of u-joints, occasionally oxen and other draft animals, and that part that you're touching with your fingers is the H bar portion of a Double Cardan joint.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:26 PM   #9
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and that part that you're touching with your fingers is the H bar portion of a Double Cardan joint.
Look I'm not a mechanic and I'm not going to pretend I am one. I didn't do this alone, and I made sure the grease fitting was tight. And for that last part

Front Drive Shaft Center Yoke

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52425_0017.htm

Ps: pardon my spelling error.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:32 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by MILK93 View Post

Look I'm not a mechanic and I'm not going to pretend I am one. I didn't do this alone, and I made sure the grease fitting was tight. And for that last part

Front Drive Shaft Center Yoke

http://www.quadratec.com/products/52425_0017.htm

Ps: pardon my spelling error.
Press them in with a bearing pusher bottle jack. Mine works fine and that's what I did.. One even Doesnt have the clip.. Sits in it fine.. No problems
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:40 PM   #11
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Press them in with a bearing pusher bottle jack. Mine works fine and that's what I did.. One even Doesnt have the clip.. Sits in it fine.. No problems
I used a compact bench vise with a 19m socket. The caps went in enough to allow for the clips to be placed.
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Old 04-07-2013, 11:44 PM   #12
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I used a compact bench vise with a 19m socket. The caps went in enough to allow for the clips to be placed.
That's a lot less pressure than the jack puts out! Use a jack!
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Old 04-08-2013, 03:00 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILK93 View Post
Guys I did not do this while sipping on coors light, the yolk was clean before putting the u joint. I sprayed it down with brake cleaner and removed all the gunk.

And let's say it was the dirt, how does that explain the grease fitting to be missing?
well there u go... drop a 12pack & give it another try!

& as BMB stated, i like to seat the clip with a punch & hammer, followed by a close inspection...
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Old 04-08-2013, 06:28 AM   #14
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When I did mine. I had trouble pressing my u joints into the h yoke. They did not go in perfectly straight and the caps scraped some metal off of the bore. I used a hydraulic press. The fit was no longer a press and the caps were loose in the bore. I ended up replacing the h yoke. It was maybe a $40 part.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:27 AM   #15
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Hard to tell from the pics, but is the yoke wallowed out? Can't see how that would happen any other way.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:39 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MILK93 View Post
Look I'm not a mechanic and I'm not going to pretend I am one. I didn't do this alone, and I made sure the grease fitting was tight. And for that last part

Front Drive Shaft Center Yoke

Original Replacement Parts J8130296 - Front Drive Shaft Center Yoke for 76-86 Jeep® CJ-7, 97-02 Wrangler TJ, 84-01 Cherokee XJ & 93-98 Grand Cheorkee ZJ with Dana Spicer Double Cardan Joint - Quadratec

Ps: pardon my spelling error.
Sorry about that. I deal with 4 different driveshaft shops, Tom Wood, Drivelines Unlimited, Jim Reel, and Coast Driveline and they all call them H bars.

If the fitting was tight, then it seems sorta obvious that the wobbling from the caps being missing probably caused it to leave.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:41 AM   #17
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That's a lot less pressure than the jack puts out! Use a jack!
If you have to use that much pressure with the H-bar, something is wrong.

They pretty much tap right in with a small hammer and a couple of sockets which is the best way to do it anyhow.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:53 AM   #18
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If you have to use that much pressure with the H-bar, something is wrong.

They pretty much tap right in with a small hammer and a couple of sockets which is the best way to do it anyhow.

I've bent more than one drive shaft yoke using a ball joint press. I don't use it anymore unless they just won't budge. Installation is always done by hand. I use a dead-blow and a differential cross pin as a drift.
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Old 04-08-2013, 08:12 AM   #19
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I've bent more than one drive shaft yoke using a ball joint press. I don't use it anymore unless they just won't budge. Installation is always done by hand. I use a dead-blow and a differential cross pin as a drift.

I use a small ball peen, the sockets are for the other side and only final seating of the one I'm driving in.
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Old 04-08-2013, 09:26 AM   #20
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Originally Posted by Black Magic Brakes

I use a small ball peen, the sockets are for the other side and only final seating of the one I'm driving in.
Yes, a ball peen, but a dead blow ball peen is what I like to use, for everything I use a ball peen for.
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:39 PM   #21
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Yes, a ball peen, but a dead blow ball peen is what I like to use, for everything I use a ball peen for.
Sound alike a good way to damage the caps to me.. Use a bottle jack press.. Keep in mind you don't have to use all the pressure....
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Old 04-08-2013, 12:42 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GingerTJ

Sound alike a good way to damage the caps to me.. Use a bottle jack press.. Keep in mind you don't have to use all the pressure....
Nope. Been doing it for 25 years. I didn't say I pounded the crap out of them. The ball joint/ u joint press is far easier than the shop press, but isn't usually necessary.
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Old 04-08-2013, 01:21 PM   #23
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I just used a c-clamp to push mine back in, easy to tell how much pressure you are doing that way.
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Old 04-08-2013, 02:12 PM   #24
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So back to the subject sounds like a wallowed out Cv
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Old 04-08-2013, 05:29 PM   #25
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Sound alike a good way to damage the caps to me.. Use a bottle jack press.. Keep in mind you don't have to use all the pressure....

Having been the designer of a high performance freeway friendly u-joint, I can tell you beyond a shadow of a doubt that you won't damage them with a normal ballpeen hammer. They are 64 on the Rockwell hardness scale, the cross bearing journals are 62. Both of which are typically softer than a good shop hammer.

That said, like Patrick, I've installed hundreds of u-joint caps in axles, driveshafts, and steering joints without ever damaging one. On the other hand, before I learned better and still used presses of various kinds, I bent yokes, exploded the ends out of caps, and ruined more stuff than I could afford.
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Old 04-08-2013, 07:10 PM   #26
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Perhaps he was basing his comment on the fact that I said I use a dead blow. What I was referring to is a dead blow ball peen hammer. Keeps the hammer from glancing, and delivers more force with a lighter strike.

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Old 04-08-2013, 07:20 PM   #27
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A good sized vise and a couple of sockets have always worked for me. If the u-joint gets argumentative, then I'll apply some light hammer blows.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:59 PM   #28
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BACK TO SUBJECT AT HAND.

Haven't been driving with a front drive shaft for a few weeks due to finals and some missing zerks. Gonna try again on the weekend. This time I'll triple check all caps and rings were properly and tightly placed. If it goes out again I'll take it to a shop and see what they say. Thanks for the help guys.

Calculus final tomorrow and chemistry on Friday wish me luck.

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